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Refitting trunnion and .008" Spacers

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Jim_Gruber

Jim_Gruber

Yoda
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Refitting trunnion and .008" Spacers

Got my kingpins and spindles back from Peter C yesterday. He and his team did a fabulous job in cleaning up my greasy spindles, reaming the bushings and reassembling, and then turning things back around and shipping back to me. I shipped from Dayton Monday AM UPS and they were back in hand Friday UPS. Fabulous service, thanks Peter C.

I'm at the point of dong some test fitting and need some help in understanding use of the .008" spacers that go under the trunnion pin nut. Instructions say:
Fit the top trunnion housing and thrust washer to the top of the king pin along with an 0.008" shim, tighten the king pin castellated nut and check the endfloat on the stub axle assembly; there should be slight resistance felt when moving from lock to lock and no vertical movement. If the assembly is too tight increase the number of shims on the top of the king pin, and if there is vertical movement reduce the number of shims; you can obtain a pack of various size shims from the parts specialists, generally they will come with the exchange axles. Because of variations in the top trunnion housing castings it is possible for there to be vertical movement when no shims are present. If this is the case insert a larger diameter shim above the thrust washer, (inside the top trunnion housing) and use the smaller shims for fine adjustment. Attach the shock absorbers to the car and replace any rebound buffers as necessary.
 
Re: Refitting trunnion and .008" Spacers

Now my questions:

Since I didn't send large washers, Nylock, and spacers to Peter C. I need someone to explain a little bit more on testing end float and the purpose of the spacers.

My interpretation is that if assembly is properly torqued, and I've got that value someplace, spindles should swivel freely and not catch.

Guessing that there must be some casting irregularity to the trunnion and the .008" spacers take care of that casting irregularity. Is that the gist of it? Thanks to all for your help.

0 Degrees in Dayton this AM. I need to paint wishbones, springs, and part of the spindle assembly. A little too chilly to try to warm up the back room of the garage today but I have all refreshed and renewed parts in hand to put him back together.
 
Re: Refitting trunnion and .008" Spacers

Soooo.... what is your question? Sorry, didn't wait.
 
Re: Refitting trunnion and .008" Spacers

Yup, the trunnions were cast then machined.
 
Re: Refitting trunnion and .008" Spacers

I just need to have someone agree that I've interpretted this correctly. I've got spindle/kingpin / wishbone /trunnion test fitted sitting in the basement and just trying to figure exactly how hte washers fit and work. I think I've got it but just wanted confirmation I'm correct

When I took this all apart before, I removed by taking off trunnion nut rather than disconnecting the trunnion bushing. So I just learned I can disassemble as a complete assembly and nor remove spindle from kingpin.

And yes I have reassembled once before with trunnion pin on backwards. Hopefully will not make that mistake again.
 
Re: Refitting trunnion and .008" Spacers

Trevor, been also talking to Frank about Geo Metro Radiator conversion. Might tacle that one while I've got front end up in the air. Hopefully this rebuild will make things a whole lot more stable and easier to drive Bugsy long distances. The radiator conversion can help keep temps down on long sustained drives at higher speeds. No problen around town but at expressway speeds over long pulls temps run a whole lot higher than I want. Slowing down immediately drops temps. Having the BE Bonnet on Bugsy just isn't giving me sufficient cooling for extended long cruises. Frank had the same issue when he installed the Speedwell Bonnet, not enough cooling at higher speeds.
 
Re: Refitting trunnion and .008" Spacers

The trunnion should be "locked" tight to the kingpin. The spindle should swivel with little effort, but should have no vertical play.
 
Re: Refitting trunnion and .008" Spacers

K I think I've got it all figured out, Thanks Trevor for the feedback.
 
Re: Refitting trunnion and .008" Spacers

Jim, use the old castle nut to run on and off while you're setting the endfloat. Use the Nyloc once it's set, but don't tighten until you've got the trunion aligned with the shock arm... almost the last step. Adding shims loosens, as you've seen.

Peter C
 
Re: Refitting trunnion and .008" Spacers

Yep, I already figured out using the old Castle Nut Trick Thnaks Peter.
 
Re: Refitting trunnion and .008" Spacers

OK more confused than ever when trying to fit trunnion and .008" spacers.

I placed the kingpin and spindle assembly in my vise on the bench. At this point this assembly is not mater to wishbone just carefully locked down with the the base of the kingpin in the jaws of the vise. Assembly swivels freely without trunnion or nut & .008" spacers in place. Added the trunnion, 1 .008" Washer and the Castle Nut. Torqued to 40 lbs per specs and cannot get the spindle to move. Repeated with 2,3,4,5,6 .008" spacers under the castle nut and still same result. I even stacked 2 regular washers in there and tried tightening down. When I get past 5-10 lbs of torque spindle will not move.

So where in my technique am I going wrong. I still need to grease the kingpin/spindle assembly but as tight as it is that isn't going to make a difference. Help me out guys on this one.
 
Re: Refitting trunnion and .008" Spacers

I'll ask the obvious... did you remember the bronze washer?
 
Re: Refitting trunnion and .008" Spacers

Yep ths bronze washer is under there. I even tried two and that made no diffrrence.
 
Re: Refitting trunnion and .008" Spacers

Jim, seems to me that when I did this all, that the manual says torque the nut, but, as you've identified, it is meant to move. What I was finally told, was tighten it down and loosen it a hole. this worked fine and has not been a problem.
 
Re: Refitting trunnion and .008" Spacers

I placed on top of kingpin/spindle

1) Big Bronze Washer
2) Trunnion
3) A stack of .008" spacers from Qty 1 to 6
4) went even bigger with two regular washers
5) Castle Nut
6) Torqued to 30+ lbs

Alternatives tried 2 Big Bronze washers and 2 regular washer, still no luck cannot budge spindle when assembled and torqued down
 
Re: Refitting trunnion and .008" Spacers

Are the shims seating correctly or are they getting mangled?

Clean the trunnion and be sure there are no old shims/washers hiding where the bronze washer sits.
 
Re: Refitting trunnion and .008" Spacers

Shims are all still nice and flat. Nothing under the bronze washer. Peter C and crew put that together for me. He did put a metal strap in there to identify the assembly to a work ticket. I don't see any way that could be making it bid as that is around the dust tubes/spring.
 
Re: Refitting trunnion and .008" Spacers

No more time to fool with it this evening. Possibly the spindle is not sitting flatI'll look at tomorrow night when I have time. In the meantime wishbones and springs got a coat of paint this evening. They look shiny and nice.
 
Re: Refitting trunnion and .008" Spacers

Jim_Gruber said:
I placed on top of kingpin/spindle

1) Big Bronze Washer
2) Trunnion
3) A stack of .008" spacers from Qty 1 to 6
4) went even bigger with two regular washers
5) Castle Nut
6) Torqued to 30+ lbs

Alternatives tried 2 Big Bronze washers and 2 regular washer, still no luck cannot budge spindle when assembled and torqued down
Click to expand...


Don't the spacers/shims go on first? I think they sit on the upper king pin shoulder. Their function is to raise (or lower) the trunnion to provide the need clearance when the castle nut is tightened.

4a in the picture- I think you can put them on before the swivel axle- then the swivel axle- then the bronze washer- then the flat washer then the castle nut.

SPM-032.gif
 
Re: Refitting trunnion and .008" Spacers

Those 4A Washers can indeed fit under the trunnion to raise it. I tried 1 .008" shim there as well, made no difference.
 
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