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Can the rear wheel studs be replaced without pulling the hub? Are they pressed in? I know they are splined and could probably be knocked out from the wheel side but not sure if I could get a new one back in if they are pressed in. In the course of checking my brakes, I noticed that at least one of the studs had distorted threads near the bearing hub where it goes through the knockoff spline. I was able to tighten the lock nuts but would like to replace any of the studs that look thread worn while in there.
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rear wheel studs on my 1967 BJ8
- Thread starter Goldie
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- rear brake studs
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Those rear wheel studs are pressed into the hub and should be replaced, as you expected, by pulling the hub and tapping new ones in on the bench. If lucky, the stud threads could be restored using a proper sized die.
I purchased my BJ7 while still in high school and some of my first repairs were to correct those done by the previous owner. One particular job involved filing off regular hex head bolts which were welded to the hubs, then, with hub on the bench and checking the splines were still intact, tapping in the new studs. Good Luck, GONZO
I purchased my BJ7 while still in high school and some of my first repairs were to correct those done by the previous owner. One particular job involved filing off regular hex head bolts which were welded to the hubs, then, with hub on the bench and checking the splines were still intact, tapping in the new studs. Good Luck, GONZO
I was wondering if I managed to get the stud to clear the void between the hub and the rear brake cover when removed,then I could pull the stud back into place by pulling it into place by tightening with the stud bolts. Might have to use a spacer of some sort to pull it tight. The key is the clearance to get old one out and new one in and the splines lined up.
Goldie, my concern with removing old studs on a mounted hub is possible damage to the bearing and race from the force exerted. If the stud could be removed with some tapping, then fine. But if they need a good pounding to force them out, then that could lead to other problems. Good luck, GONZO
I decided to wait until I can't tighten the lug any longer due to bad threads. So far, so good. Then I will pull the hub and replace all the studs. I wasn't sure where I could get a socket to pull that big bearing nut. The one I used before is 120 miles from here at the place I restored it. I found I can buy one from AH Spares when I decide to do it.
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I don't think the lug nuts are strong enough to pull the studs into the axle flange.
If you pull the axle, you can put it in a large vice with a couple of sockets and press the studs out.
For insertion, if you freeze the studs and heat the axle in a gas grill, you can tap them in with your lead hammer.
Healey Surgeons and BCS also sell the wrenches for the rear axle octagon nuts.