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rear wheel cylinder C clip install?? ugh

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B

Brent P

Freshman Member
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is there a trick to installing that blasted C clip?? I tried a few times...and then searched the floor across the shop looking for it to try it again!

Someone has to have a trick to installing these #$%& things.

thanks in advance.

I know that you're laughing WITH me...not at me.

B.
 
Yes there is...









:devilgrin:






Part of the secret is to keep the old original one and never let go, my experience with the new clips is that you should go ahead and throw them as hard and far as you can now before driving yourself crazy - oh, too late eh??
 
ya need to do it OFF the car, and even thin the odds are against ya.

m
 
I like saving the old ones too.

But some of the new ones are just "cupped' too far and can be used if you flatten them a bit with a hammer on a flat surface (but not too flat).

Or just ditch the C-clips. Buy snap rings at your local hardware store and use them instead.
 
A fellow named Norm Kerr who posts on MG Experience came up with this:

"I did a bit of research and found retaining rings and spring washers that are very close to the original factory ones, and as a bonus, are available in stainless steel from Grainger.

Grainger #5DA81 = 11/16" external retaining ring, stainless steel. $12.94 (for 10)
Grainger #6ZA12 = 11/16" wave washer (3 wave), stainless steel. $16.42 (for 10)."

Never tried it myself.
 
I am doing my brakes now too. Had to give up on trying to use the c-clips on my brake cylinder. What a pain. Got the snap rings from Moss and they worked fine. Still need to have a thin washer behind the snap ring to get a tight fit. I need to go down to the hardware store to see if I can find one to fit. Jim
 
I ran into the same thing with the Tunebug, and wound up reusing the original clips (they were in good shape). Couldn't see how the new ones were going to fit.
 
the previous owner was a JackWagon... the C clips that I removed were actually trapped between the backplate and the housing flange! wondered why they didn't want to come out very easily. I do have the axle on the bench and am going thru it from side to side. I do feel like the new ones supplied are cupped a lot more than needed. Think I'll flatten them out just a bit and try it again tomorrow.

I removed a welded 4.22 and am going back to an open 3.90. should be a lot better for the street!

I'll keep you posted.


B.
 
There is also this advice from elsewhere:

"Many of us have eliminated the clip altogether. When I install a new cylinder, I remove the locating pin and throw it away w/ the circlip. A couple of turns into the locating pin hole with a suitable size tap and the unit now mounts and unmounts with a small bolt from behind the backplate. Five minutes in the vice eliminates an hour of messing with the clip."

I would probably go this route.

Charlie
 
The_architect said:
There is also this advice from elsewhere:

"Many of us have eliminated the clip altogether. When I install a new cylinder, I remove the locating pin and throw it away w/ the circlip. A couple of turns into the locating pin hole with a suitable size tap and the unit now mounts and unmounts with a small bolt from behind the backplate. Five minutes in the vice eliminates an hour of messing with the clip."

I would probably go this route.

Charlie
Click to expand...

hmmm, now that's a slick idea - I went with snap rings because the clip was so frustrating, but being able to bolt it down is great idea... need to try that on the next go around !
 
In addition to the threading of the pin hole, go with the washer and circlip .
 
This reminds me. I few years ago I did a roadside repair on one of my rear wheel cylinders. I should probably go back and replace the copper wire and zip tie with something more substantial.
 
JPSmit said:
A while back someone posted this - FWIW
C Clip installation made easy
Click to expand...

That's a good tip, but I'm not sure you'd get away with it with the new clips supplied.

I replaced the rear wheel cylinders on an MGB just a few weeks ago and faced this dreaded task. One of the <span style="text-decoration: underline">new</span> supplied clips actually broke in half trying to put it on in the typical fashion. What I ended up doing was rounding the inside corner of the leading part of the clip just enough to get it a little further in the groove of the wheel cylinder. With it a little farther in the groove, a single solid tap on a blunt chisel with a hammer, it was done.

I have seen on some BMC cars (can't recall which now- later Spridgets?) that a small bolt is used instead of the clip, so I like Charlie's suggestion.
 
The_architect said:
There is also this advice from elsewhere:

"Many of us have eliminated the clip altogether. When I install a new cylinder, I remove the locating pin and throw it away w/ the circlip. A couple of turns into the locating pin hole with a suitable size tap and the unit now mounts and unmounts with a small bolt from behind the backplate. Five minutes in the vice eliminates an hour of messing with the clip."

I would probably go this route.

Charlie
Click to expand...

This was my quote on the BBS a year or so ago.

It's really easy and works great.
If you use a short allan head bolt and snug it up tight, I don't see any advantage adding the c lip
I'd link a photo, but I'm not sure how

Phil
 
The idea was not mine, I got it from someone on the Spridget BBS

Can someone tell me how to post a pic?
Phil
 
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