Rear wheel bearings- GET OUT!

[Tabcon]

Okay, I've got my rear end completely disassembled and the housing sanded and primed. I've removed all the guts and even got the the front and rear pinion bearings completely out and the races all cleaned up. I managed to get the wheel hubs off, which was not an easy task with loose axles and I even managed to remove part of the wheel bearing, the cage part. What's left are the inner bearing sleeves that attach to the axles. You would think that they're welded on by looking them, but I know they are supposed to break loose.

Without any special factory tools, or fancy hydraulic presses, is it possible to get these things off the axles using commonly available stuff and a little elbow grease?

I've got a new 4.1:1 ring and pinion and I'm waiting on Tran-X Salisbury LSD unit. I'd like to have everything ready to go when the LSD arrives, so any help will be mucho appreciated.

 

[TR3driver]

One trick that has worked for me is to use a Dremel & cutoff wheel. Cut a groove in the race across the width and almost all the way through, then use a chisel & BFH to break the remaining race.

Did that just the other day, in fact, for my "LBC support vehicle". A failed rear wheel bearing had gotten hot & the outer race spot-welded to the housing. It just laughed at a 5 lb slide hammer; but about 20 minutes with a Dremel and out it came.

 

[Tabcon]

Great idea! Why didn't I think of that??? LOL

I got one of them off today with a medium sized drift pin and a maul, but it took a while and some effort, as well as a bruised thumb.

I use a Rotozip with the Dremel attachments. It's much faster but you have to be very careful with it because it's so powerful. It turns those little Dremel flap wheels into pretzels.

 

[TR3driver]

I just bought a new Dremel a few weeks ago myself. Has a lot more oomph than the 40-year old one it replaced. Curiously enough, it came with a Rotozip attachment

(Though no doubt, your Rotozip still has more power.)

 

[Tabcon]

Rotozip sells the same exact flex line attachment that Dremel does, but they need to upgrade it. While it works fine for the Dremel, the Rotozip snaps the inside cable in half after only a couple of uses. I must have returned 10 of these cables to Lowes. It's really obnoxious so I've decided to get a large Dremel and forget about the Roto.

 

[tomshobby]

I once was good enough that I could cut them off with a torch but I would not try it now, something to do with trifocals.

I also would use a hammer and anvil. Hitting the race will expand it until it can be easily removed.

But a press and bearing splitter still work the best.

 

[trfourtune]

Tab,
aren't you going to get the SOUTHWICK axle conversion done-ford axles? If you plan to race your car at all, i would recommend it (maybe even if you don't). There have been many rear axle breaks by racers resulting in major roll overs-Jack drews-just to name one (the demise of "old blue"). See Tony Drews site.
Rob

 

[Tabcon]

No, not going for the Southwick conversion at this time. Quaife offers upgraded heavy duty half shafts and Cambridge has heavy duty steel billet hubs at a good price. I've completely rebuilt my rear axles and differential and have a 4.1:1 ring and pinion ready to go as soon as I get an LSD.

I really don't plan on abusing the car as much as you would abuse a full time race car like Tony has. If I was going to run full competition non-vintage type SCCA classes, yea, I would do the conversion. My axle was completely rebuilt by Quantum Mechanics before I bought the car and it was in great shape when I took it apart. I probably should not have fooled with it, but I figured since I was installing a new ring and pinion, I might as well address the whole thing. The half shafts look brand new with no wear at all, so I may just hang on to them for the time being and just add the upgraded hubs.