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TR4/4A Rear stud spins! How do I get it out?

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TeBock

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Greetings! I've searched and searched and read a whole slew of posts about the "threaded" wheel studs on the TR4. I'm restoring a 1962 TR4 that has obviously seen some pretty bad days, but is finally beginning to rise from the rust. One thing I have to do is replace all the wheel studs as almost all of them have been damaged beyond any hope of a rebirth. The front studs were no problem and came out after one or two "taps" from my trusty hammer. The rear, threaded studs were more difficult as I had to remove the peening before I could get them unscrewed with my vice-grips. Problem is I'm only 7/8ths of the way there. One stud (it had been broken in half and wouldn't hold the lug nut) just spins freely and won't screw out. Do I try cutting/grinding it under the stud shoulder and try to hammer it out? Can't drill it out as the stud just spins. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

By way of explanation, 50 years ago I sold my original 64 TR4 to pay for our wedding and honeymoon. My wife surprised me with this 62 TR4 on our 50th anniversary to replace the one I sold. She bought it online, sight unseen and had no idea what would be involved to bring it back to life after many years in a Texas barn.
 
Might be simplest to just look for another hub. Sounds like the threads are probably gone, and likely the hole worn out of shape. Since the lugs are what center the wheels, having one of them out of place can result in vibration.

But I would probably try removing the hub (with shaft) and holding the broken end in a vice (or vice grips if that's what you have) while drilling from the back with only maybe 3/16" drill. Then use a punch & BFH to encourage the stud out. (I'm assuming you already ground away the peened portion.)
 
As I recall, I used a second lug nut on the stud a couple threads to form a cup in to which I inserted a drill bit of the specified drill size so as to mark the precise center of the stud. and keep drilling til there is little stud left. Then, starting with 3/16 drill thru the stud and gradually increase drill size until only a minimal shell of the stud is left in the hole. Collapse the shell with a pin punch or chisel and it will come out without further thread damage. You can get studs with oversized threads on the hub side, drill and retap for the new size. But as Randall says, it might be easier to replace the hub. On a 3, though, getting the hub off is more trouble than the process I describe.

Bob
 
Thanks for the suggestions! I think I'll try Bob's idea first and see if I can make some progress on it. If that doesn't look like it's going to work I'll fall back to Randall's suggestion and remove the hub and shaft. Then if that doesn't work, it's replacement hub time. Drat!! But at least then the hub and shaft are out.

BTW... This is my first question on this site and I've got to admit you guys are pretty impressive! Thanks!!!
 
OK.... So I wound up replacing the hub! Many thanks and KUDOS to GeneW for his help and excellent expertise in separating the hubs from the axles. He went above and beyond the call of duty to brave Wisconsin's January 2018 deep snow and bitter cold to save a marriage in St. Augustine, Florida.
 
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When I had trouble with the rear studs on my Tr4a (solid axle), I pulled the axles/hubs and shipped them to Mark Macy. He did a great job on them!

Jim
 
TeBock's axle was definitely the hardest one (out of 20 or so) I have ever separated which is quite an a accomplishment.

His hubs had no studs to attach the puller so all the pulling force was provided by the strongback I use on the inboard side of the hub. These were the first assemblies I had to hammer on the pulling screw to get the hub to separate. The ability to pull the hub without the studs illustrates the value of being able to capture the hub on the inboard and outboard sides so that the hub is held rigid during the pull.

Just happy we were able to save the marriage!
 
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