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TR2/3/3A Rear Spring front attachment bolt

BobbyO

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I was finally able to remove the front attachment bolt on the rear spring. Looking at it, it appears it was not rust that was giving me so much difficulty. There seems to be a fine rubber coating on the portion of the bolt that goes into the spring bush and this made it difficult to remove. It's not on all of the bolt. This does not show in the illustration in the service manual. I'm sure this will make it harder to get the attachment bolt back in. Should it be there and is it necessary when replacing the bolt?
 

Geo Hahn

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I recall no such material on the ones I have removed -- could it be dried lubricant?

I think you'll want to clean that bolt to bare metal then slather it with whatever anti-sieze you like before putting it back in.
 
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BobbyO

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Yoda I don't think it was dried lubricant. I have removed it but had to use a razor knife to cut it off and it looked like rubber as it was being removed. After cleaning it I got to thinking (not necessarily a good thing) since it goes into a metal bush, maybe the rubber should be there. As I said, not shown on the service manual illustration. Not doubting you but would like a definitive answer before I install the spring. It sure goes in a lot easier without the rubber.
 

TR3driver

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It's sometimes hard to get "definitive" answers, but I agree with Geo. I've never seen anything like that on any of the ones I've removed; and I don't believe it belongs there. And I've not seen any ill effects from not having it. Almost sounds like your car was undercoated at some point, and the liquid undercoating seeped into the cracks before hardening.

FWIW, I like the copper-based anti-seize. I had used it on those pins on TR39781LO some 20 years earlier, and they slid right out after it was wrecked. It actually surprised me, I was in the middle of installing my puller when the pin started moving more or less on it's own! I pulled them out with my fingers (while supporting the weight of the spring with the other hand). Spoiled my plans of taking photos of the pulling process :D
 

CJD

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Sounds like RTV silicone sealer. When silicone first came out, many were lathering it on anything that went back together. Once you have to remove it later, you realize that it should not go on everything!?!
 
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BobbyO

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I'll take "consensus" as "definitive. Thanks for the help. It just struck me as odd that whatever the material was, it was just on that portion of the bolt that went into the spring bush. Randall, I wish you had taken photos of that pulling process. I'm now attempting to remove the bolt from the other side (passenger side) and so far it hasn't budged. Years ago I dismantled this chassis to have it powder coated and when I assembled it I naturally got the rear springs reversed. I just realized it when I saw an old post by Randall about the additional spacers on the passenger side rear spring. A neighbor had noticed my driver's side was slightly lower than the passenger side and I thought it was because the spring was old or warped. Nope, I had the passenger side spring on the driver's side. I'm continually amazed by the amount of information on this forum.
 
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BobbyO

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David. Driver's side spring and bolt are off the car. Am now attempting to remove the bolt from the passenger's side. Cannot remove the spring until the bolt has been moved because the body is in the way
 

TR3driver

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I used a length of high tensile threaded rod, grade 8 nuts, and some heavy "setup" washers, all from MMC.
Ran a bottoming tap into the threads in the pin to clean the old dirt and gunk out, then tightened the rod using double nuts. After that, it was just a matter of adding a spacer, tightening the nut to move the pin as far as possible, then adding another spacer. I used some sockets and bits of pipe for the spacers.
Turned the nut mostly with a box end wrench, but for part if the way, I had to go in through the hole in the frame with a deep socket.
Oh yeah, plenty of lube on the threads. They were worn enough that I used a new rod & nuts for the other side.
 
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BobbyO

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Who is MMC? Not familiar with them. I used a 5 1/2 inch 5/16x24 bolt that I threaded all the way when removing the driver side bolt but it isn't budging the passenger side. Also wasn't using grade 8 nuts so the current ones are toast. Will get those but haven't found a source close by for the high tensile threaded rod. Thanks for the help.
 

TR3driver

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MMC is McMaster Carr. Great source for all sorts of hardware. They're geared more towards industry, but have no problem with small private party orders. Used to be that they would break up boxes (for an extra charge) but I don't know if they will.still do that or not.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#
 

DavidApp

Yoda
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Thought you may have lifted the body a little. A lot of work to do that. Are you replacing the springs or just reversing them?

Makes me wonder if I should attempt to get the bolts out when I get the body off to spray. They were in the frame when I got the car and I made no attempt to remove them.

Fastenal is another possibility for the grade 8 nuts. [COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.870588)]1715 Meredith Park Dr, McDonough, GA 30253 [/COLOR]
[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.870588)](770) 305-9990

David
[/COLOR]​
 

karls59tr

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That bolt is a real pain. I ended up drilling out as much of the bolt as possible and reaming out the rest. Bolt was welded in place by rust!
 
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kstanley44

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Wow, now I know how lucky I am. Coincidently I just removed my springs today. After taking the castellated nut/washer/cotter pin I just placed the nut back on a little and tapped with a hammer and the bolt slide. Just used a socket extension to drive it out of the chassis tube. I had been spraying with PB Blaster for several weeks and the body is off the chassis so it was more accessible. The bolt was clean with no remnants of any kind.
Kerry
 

TR3driver

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FWIW, a former dealer mechanic once told me that they would drill a hole through the rocker panel so the pin could be driven out with a BFH. Afterwards, they just put a chrome plug in the hole.
 

Geo Hahn

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...I just placed the nut back on a little and tapped with a hammer and the bolt slide...

Yeah, with the body off the frame you have options beyond fashioning a puller. I've been fortunate that all of mine came out as easily and smoothly as a cork from a wine bottle.

I used Randall's set-up (but with use grade 5 hardware from Ace). But these cars have never nasty weather and I did soak them with PBlaster every time I was under the car over the course of many years.
 

Geo Hahn

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FWIW, a former dealer mechanic once told me that they would drill a hole through the rocker panel so the pin could be driven out with a BFH. Afterwards, they just put a chrome plug in the hole.

I have heard (but not confirmed) that that hole can be located under the small stone shield. If true that would not be too bad a method as a last resort as the hole would not have to be very big.
 

Don Elliott

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In 2000, I broke a leaf in the rear spring on the RHS of my 1958 TR3A. I knew that I wouldn't be able to remove the bolts so I removed the rear bumperettes and supports, then removed about 8 or so bolts (they are all stainless bolts and nuts from 1990) holding the body shell to the frame. Then I lifted the rear of the body about a foot off the frame using my rolling jack under the spare wheel pan (properly protected with a 2 by 6 with carpet padding between the wood and the bottom of the pan. I was able to remove the springs without touching the rust-in bolts (they were the original ones from 1958) and replaced both rear springs. Then I lowered the TR back onto the frame and bolted it all back together.

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A TS 27489 LO
 

CJD

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I was going to mention that too, Don. It depends on a well restored car. Neither of my cars would have been "tip-able" the way they came to me. After the restoration, I have no doubt that lifting the body would only take an hour or so.
 
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