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Rear Shock Removal

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W

wlivesey

Senior Member
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I have seen instructions on how to top off shocks on the bench. My problem has been getting the shock off the car. I have removed the 2 bolts holding the shock to the chassis but have been unable to seperate the arm at the rubber bushing. I am afraid to force it not knowing the prpoer procedure. Can someone tell me the proper procedure for removing the rear shocks. Thanks
Bill
BT7
 
Bill, I just replaced the shocks on my BJ8. First, remove the nut and spring washer that secures the shock lever to the link arm. Then remove the two bolts that secure the shock body to the chassis. Now the shock will separate from the car with the link arm still attached to the shock. Once out of the car you can "tap" the tapered link pin out of the shock arm. Be sure to support the shock arm and by all means rethread the nut onto the link pin before you start "tapping" or you'll bugger the threads. Don't ask me how I know. If you suspect your shocks are leaking or have lost their effective dampening, I recommend you contact Peter C. at World Wide Auto Parts in Madison, WI. He rebuilds Armstrong shocks to better than new condition and guarantees them not to leak - ever. Good luck.
 
Thanks Wana,
it seems like the shock arm does not want to seperate from the link arm. Should I be able to pry these apart?
Thanks
Bill
BT7
 
I had to whack mine pretty good, but it will eventually pop out. Make sure you're pounding from the threaded end because it is a tightly fit tapered pin. If you aren't planning to use the link arms (because bushing is worn out) you could try some penetrating oil... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
I may have used a 2 arm gear puller. Then again, the links may still be on the original shocks buried somewhere in the garage.
 
[ QUOTE ]
A little heat goes a long way toward helping to remove stubborn tapered pins.

[/ QUOTE ]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonono.gif Not on the shocks---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
Seems like I replaced the links as I could not kindly get them to come off.
 
Oh boy... I'm going to try this attachment thing.

Anyway, this picture shows where to strike the shock arm. With nut loosened, support and smack the arm perpindicular to the hole, or pin. You are trying to "oval" the tapered hole to "squeeze" the taper pin a little. You should not need the hit the threaded pin at all. Maybe a tap. But smack the arm in step 1 hard, several times. Leave the nut on loosely unless you're a gambler, ...and a good aim. (boy, I hope this works) Peter C.
 

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Hi Peter,

The attachment worked! I was wondering how the pros handled this job (and now that you mention it, used this technique on tie rod links many years ago). Thanks for sharing your expertise! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif

Cheers,
John
 
Yeah Peter C, but for the problem stated I think Wana's solution is the best. Why beat it to death if you don't have to.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
Keoke, Wana used the same technique, I think. At least we discussed it when he got the shox. I can read his description that way.
 
Hi Peter, as they say a false premise can lead to a true conclusion.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Hey, as a test, I just removed 2 links from 2 rear shocks. 1 minute 28 seconds for the pair. ... now, admittedly the were for a Bugeye.. LOL
 
yea mine might have taken 3 min total but I'm old and slow.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hey, as a test, I just removed 2 links from 2 rear shocks. 1 minute 28 seconds for the pair. ... now, admittedly the were for a Bugeye.. LOL

[/ QUOTE ]

OK Peter, You Win---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
yea mine might have taken 3 min total but I'm old and slow.

[/ QUOTE ]
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif
So is peter, I could have done it in half that time.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
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