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Rear axle oil seal
- Thread starter TonyR
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Bob_Spidell
Yoda
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It's not particularly difficult; and has been discussed frequently on this forum, including here:
https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/763253/Rear_Hub_Puller#Post763253
The securing nut is 8-sided, and a typical 6- or 12-point socket will not work. Several parts houses, and British Tools (britishtools.com)--sell a stamped steel socket, and Randy Forbes (on this forum) has fabricated the definitive tool. You will need a proper socket (I'd bet someone has removed/installed yours before with channellocks or a chisel and hammer).
You pull the axles out, remove the nut, and then pull the entire axle hub. You can reverse the axle and use it as a platform against the axle housing and tighten nuts on the studs. That will get the hub about halfway out, then use a large, three-legged gear puller. Randy uses a slide hammer with another fabricated adapter to bolt up to 3 of the 5 studs.
You have to remove the bearings--check for wear, or maybe even replace on principle while you're at it--to get to the seal. I use a hydraulic press to remove them; a vise can be used. R&R on the seal is typical (smear a little grease on the inside lip to minimize startup wear).
Getting the hub back on can be a chore, too. I like to warm them up a little in an oven--200degF maybe--then I 'persuade' them back on with a suitably sized steel tube used as a drift and a 3-lb persuader (hammer).
You'll need to replace the seals, maybe the bearings, the paper gasket and the tab-type lockwasher if it's been used up.
This is an all-day job for both sides, assuming you have all tools and parts ready to go. Make sure the axle housing is properly supported--you'll be applying some effort to it and if it slipped off jackstands (or blocks, etc.) it would be disastrous.
https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/763253/Rear_Hub_Puller#Post763253
The securing nut is 8-sided, and a typical 6- or 12-point socket will not work. Several parts houses, and British Tools (britishtools.com)--sell a stamped steel socket, and Randy Forbes (on this forum) has fabricated the definitive tool. You will need a proper socket (I'd bet someone has removed/installed yours before with channellocks or a chisel and hammer).
You pull the axles out, remove the nut, and then pull the entire axle hub. You can reverse the axle and use it as a platform against the axle housing and tighten nuts on the studs. That will get the hub about halfway out, then use a large, three-legged gear puller. Randy uses a slide hammer with another fabricated adapter to bolt up to 3 of the 5 studs.
You have to remove the bearings--check for wear, or maybe even replace on principle while you're at it--to get to the seal. I use a hydraulic press to remove them; a vise can be used. R&R on the seal is typical (smear a little grease on the inside lip to minimize startup wear).
Getting the hub back on can be a chore, too. I like to warm them up a little in an oven--200degF maybe--then I 'persuade' them back on with a suitably sized steel tube used as a drift and a 3-lb persuader (hammer).
You'll need to replace the seals, maybe the bearings, the paper gasket and the tab-type lockwasher if it's been used up.
This is an all-day job for both sides, assuming you have all tools and parts ready to go. Make sure the axle housing is properly supported--you'll be applying some effort to it and if it slipped off jackstands (or blocks, etc.) it would be disastrous.
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While you're in there examine carefully the machined surface of the stub axle. If it is deeply grooved put a speedi-sleeve on it and the new seal will actually work!