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TR2/3/3A Re-building 1954 TR-2 engine

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Redoakboo

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I have the two sprockets on the crank and cam aligned with #1 & #4 at TDC, keyway down. Is there anything else I need to do , as far as aligning the valves, before I install the chain?

The builder installed new cam bearings, but did not re-install the Cam bearing 3 bolts! I do not have the pan on yet. Is there a safe way to re-install the bolts, without binding the camshaft? If I hadn't noticed this, I'm sure I would have lost a lot of oil.

Dick
 
Did TR2 even have those "bolts"? I thought they were introduced at the same time as the TR3?

Anyway, I would do a trial installation without the flat washer, and tighten with fingers only until the first sign of resistance. If the head is away from the block by less than the thickness of the washer, then reinstall with the washer and tighten fully. But, if it meets resistance while the gap is still more than the washer, then I'm afraid you'll have to remove the cam and find a way to move the insert.
 
As I mentioned in my earlier post on a similar thread, the early TR2 blocks did not have cam bearings at all - there was just a machined surface in the block. Then the bearings were added for later cars. You can tell an early block because there are no cam bearing retainer bosses on the outside of the block

Dan
 
Randall,
I stuck a screw driver in the bolt holes, no chance of the bolt hitting the bearings .Did you see my earlier post on having the two cam sprockets aligned at TDC #1 & #4 with keyway down. O.k.to install the chain now?

Thanks for your usual good advice. Dick
 
The cam bearing has a hole in it for the tip of the bolt to go into. The washer is a copper crush washer so as to seal from oil leaking. Can you see the holes in the Cam bearing with a flash light? The bolt also holds and centers the cam bearing from spinning.

With #1 piston as TDC the intake and exhaust valves of #1 have to both be closed. If either on is open you are 180 degrees out. They 4 cycle engines which means: intake- compression- power- exhaust. Number one piston has to be sealed to firer with the valve timing and at that point the timing chain can go on.
steve
 
Steve,

How can I tell whether both valves are closed on #1? You are saying that even though I have the sprocket lines aligned, it still might be 180 degrees off? I have the pan off, can I look up into the block to see whether #1 has both valves closed?

Dick
 
Affirming what Dan said...you do not have a TR2 block if you have the cam bearing locks. The TR2’s did not have separate cam bearings...the cam rides directly on the cast iron block. I only beat this point, as you will find other items that will not match with a TR2 if you have the later block. Head studs and oil filter adapter come to mind right off.

OR...what you think are cam locks are actually the oil gallery plugs. They look similar, but are not in the same location on the block.
 
I do have an early TR-2 engine TS 3359 LO engine # IS2585QE and it does have cam bearings. The bolts I referred to are apparently oil gallery plugs.
 
If the valve cover is off, both valve springs would be closed for the compression stroke @ #1TDC. Plus you should have .10 or a little click on the lifter assembly of number 1 on both valves. Even though number #4 is at the top of its stroke one of those valves on 4 will be open, so one spring is open and one is closed on #4 and both springs are closed @#1 compression stroke. There are 4 cycles to the engine in which the valves open and close intake and exhaust and the piston comes up twice. One to push out the exhaust and once to compress the fuel for spark.
 
Redoakboo said:
I do have an early TR-2 engine TS 3359 LO engine # IS2585QE and it does have cam bearings. The bolts I referred to are apparently oil gallery plugs.
Click to expand...

That makes more sense. Your block has been bored for replaceable cam bearings...and you therefore do not have the cam bearing locks. The bearings are held by an interference fit.
 
It really doesn't matter; as long as the cam is set to TDC and the crank is set to TDC, you can install the timing chain. It doesn't matter until it comes time to install the distributor drive gear.

With the stock camshaft, both rockers on #4 will be tight (very slightly open) at TDC with #1 ready to fire. Measuring that they are open by the same amount is one way to accurately find TDC for the cam.
 
Hey Dick - for your commission number, the engine number should be a few hundred above, due to engines being supplied for Dorettis and possibly other uses. The engine numbers began with TS and ended in E. So your number of “IS2585QE” is probably more likely to be “TS 25850 E”, or similar, which is a later block. The original engine would have been something like “TS 3xxx E”. Knowing what you have might help with the rebuild process, as a later block would have the cam bearings and the retainer bosses on the block. Maybe a picture of the block might help?

Cheers

Dan
 
Go here:

https://imgur.com/

You'll have to sign up, but it's free. Once you have an account, upload any pics you would like to post. Then when you view them, look for a tab on the left that will open into the various posting codes. Select "BB Code" and copy it...then paste it into your post.

That's the basic...I can go into more detail if you have any problems.
 
DV,
You were Spot On as with #1 TDC, lines aligned on sprockets, keyway down I had exactly .10 on valves 1 &2. #4 had one closed and one partially open.

Thanks, Dick
 
Dan,
I just looked at the engine and you were right TS 25850 E on the side of the block; builder read it wrong. I posted a entree on how to add an attachment to your post, I couldn't figure it out?

Dick
 
For picture upload.
Go to:
Go advanced--- bottom right first page under quick reply
Then click browse ----down and to the left center
Then select a picture from your software after the selection and location of the browse picked has the picture you want
Then click the picture to upload picture.
Then close window and bar up to post
 
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