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TR2/3/3A Re-assembling 1954 TR-2 Engine

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Rope seals were common back then; my 62 Chevy originally had a rope seal. Literally cotton rope, treated with graphite and packed around the journal. (The gasket set came with a lip type seal, but I took out rope.)
Believe it it not, the scroll seal was actually intended as a longer life replacement! The Standard engine in my Fergie was made with rope (probably still there, but I haven't been that far into it yet.)

For the piston stop, you knock out the ceramic and side electrode, leaving a hollow shell that screws into a plug hole. Find a tap that will just bite into the inside of the shell, and tap it partway coming in from the bottom. Thread a suitable bolt in until it jams against the unfinished threads (or use Loctite or whatever). You could also use a bolt with an unthreaded shank. Anything to lock it in place in the plug shell.

In my case, the head was too large to fit through the plug hole, so I cut it off and rounded the end a bit. Might not be necessary in your case.

To use it, just screw into #1 (or #4) until the plug shell seats on the head. Obviously, make sure the piston isn't at TDC! Then gently turn the crank one way until it stops and mark the position. Turn the other way and mark again. TDC is exactly halfway between the two marks.

Don't forget to remove the stop before you turn to TDC though :smile:
 
I guess you are saying mark it on the pulley which should be the hole drilled in the pulley after you do the math?
 
Randall,

Couldn't find your last response, so will use this one. I have the crank bolt screwed into the crank, so it is pretty easy to turn the engine over. I found the punch marks in the cam and sprocket so think I'm good on that connection. I turned the crank to the point it is relaxed and keyway facing straight down so think I have 1 & 4 at TDC. I have a bolt the same size as the spark plug so thought I would use it to determine TDC, how far into the cylinder should I turn it?
As I have no indicator on the crank sprocket, and I am at TDC on 1, what do I line up with the scribe line on the cam sprocket?

Dick
 
If you're going to rely on the existing marks, then you don't really need the piston stop at all. Line the scribe mark up with the centerline of the crank (as shown on page B20 of the workshop manual), point the crank keyway straight down, and put it together.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffYWZiN2VlZGMtNTkxMi00NGUzLWE4NzMtMGRkODRkYzU3MDU1

How far the bolt protrudes into the cylinder isn't important, as long as it's far enough to stop the piston and solid (so it doesn't move around). I don't have mine handy, but ISTR it sticks out of the plug shell by about 1.5"
 
Dick, when using a piston stop, you turn the crank until it contacts the piston in one direction. Mark the sprocket, flywheel, or index wheel (not included) at that point. Now spin the crank the opposite direction until the stop hits once again. Make a second mark. TDC is the exact position between the 2 stop marks you made.

For what you are doing, simply assembling a stock engine, you can simply eyeball TDC by watching the #1 piston. Finding exact TDC is used for indexing your engine to perfect specs. Let us know how close you want it, and we can give better details, so you do not confuse indexing with basic assembly.
 
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