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Radiator delimna

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OK I think I need to see some more pics - any chance this could happen? I'm thinking L brackets - please? thanks
 
I just looked again, you have a bugeye, hence presumably no shroud. I'm not sure it is as easy with my '76. Opinions?
 
Sense when is the Bugeye radiator not adaquit? Never had any problems with mine.
 
JP... I live in Texas and run the stock radiator in my 79. I ran it all summer (one of the hottest on record) with absolutely nothing close to overheating problems. When the weather turned (relatviely) cooler, I put a 195 thermostat in the car... and it doesn't even open up. Water temp hovers around 180-190. Also, it may be worthy of note, I am not running the stock exhaust. I have wrapped headers and my cat is located by the rear axle. My cooling system is as it came from the factory.

Just food for thought before you put a new radiator in.
 
I have been running a stock recored BE radiator (two rows)for years with a stock 1275 with no problems. I have a stage 1 engine with a this rad with np,

Patrick
 
[ QUOTE ]
Sense when is the Bugeye radiator not adaquit? Never had any problems with mine.

[/ QUOTE ]

Jack I'm not questioning the rad, rather it seems that there is less sheet metal around the rad than there is in a later Midget. Presumably then, the less sheet metal (shroud) it would be easier to put in a different rad. The issue is that I need a new rad but can't get them (VB at least lost their supplier) (I think I can get one in Britain) Thus I have to recore. This is not a problem except that it will cost about $250. Ths a cheaper rad makes a potentially nice alternative
 
Ahhh, cheeper is gooder for a daily driver.

Hang on to the old one so you can go back if needed.
 
Ohhhhh! I agree with Jack. Go for the Geo rad. When I eventually have problems with my radiator, that is definitely the way I will go. I posted my previous comments because I was worried that you were replacing the radiator to fix a cooling problem that quite possibly has nothing to do with the radiator.
 
spritenut said:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Stock downflow hose fits perfect, cross flow upper hose fits perfect but you do need the later t/stat cover that points left but that is a direct bolt on too.
Click to expand...

What models/years had 'the later t/stat cover that points left'?

Thanks.

Mike
 
I think it is Moss Part #460-855


Pre-68 1098/1275 cars I think.

But I'm working from a very poor memory.
 
For a supercharger engine, the stock radiator may not be enough. I'm running a turbocharger and had heat problems until I got a Speedwell aluminum radiator. I ran a Geo Metro rad for a few years, but didn't like the bodged look of it. The Speedwell was made to pop right into the bugeye mounts and works great. It has a drain tap and accomodates an overflow tank. In California, in the summer, with over 100HP under to poorly ventilated bonnet, you're living in a world of heat the other spridget drivers cannot appreciate. The aluminum rad did the trick.

Glen Byrns
 
Hey Glen, where were you when this thread was fresh? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

I'm going to start with 3-row core vertical unit and go from there. If it doesn't work I can sell it off and have custom aluminum job done. Thanks for the insight.
 
Where was I when this thread was fresh? Out in the garage swapping pistons and laying cheepo pseudo-dynamat in my bugeye. Rebuilding a wiper motor, removing the steering column and changing the felts, taking a 60 mile plug-cut drive. Busy weekend, also my daughter managed to screw up my home PC so badly I couldn't get this page until I got to work on Monday! Other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how'd you like the play?

Glen Byrns
 
Trevor, sorry I've missed most of this, but my buddy who also built a SC BE has had this same prob. There are friends who race bugeyes forever who told me that the old BE cores had a copper piece that zig zagged accross the vert. tubes and attached both to the tubes and the fins. With age soldier broke and the rad became worthless. In the time there was a tropical rad that had three vert rows. Anyway, my buddy found somebody who would use his tanks and get a three row core. 54 tubes in the 2 row, 97 in the new one, same thickness. When he got it home the bottom tank wasn't in the same position and John had to heat and bend the back side to clear the steering rack. You can't see it. I'll let you know who it does when it heats up. I don't run a mechanical fan off the engine. The electric fan sits in front and just fits when the nose comes down. I seldom have to use it, but I keep an eye on the temp gauge.
 
Yup, I've already had mine recored with the 3 row core. It fits ok, but a little to close to the frame rail for comfort. I'm still mocking things up, so I'll get it all tweaked before time to strip it back apart for bodywork/paint.

Glen, I wish I had time to get out in the garage to do those sort of things. My bugeye might actually be on the road. But my work prevents me from working in the garage unless it is late nights, and then I'm exhausted. I originally started this thread back in November of last year before deciding to have the radiator recored.
 
Children or grandchildren are not allowed to touch adult computers. Let them screw up their own.
 
Jack, "your mouth to God's ear" on the computer issue. But remember, once one of us "grownups" screws up a computer, its one of the kids that will fix it.
The hardest thing is to get out to the garage after a long day at work. I usually force myself to go out and at least try to touch one thing that needs fixing. Often, after a bit of half-hearted poking about, I get inspired and actually knuckle down and get something useful done. Once I was just going to undo the throttle cable and drain the rad for an engine pull the next morning. An hour later the motor was sitting on the dolly.

Glen Byrns
 
Ha, here in Widward Cove I am the computer expert. Mine always works properly, no virus, now trogons, etc etc.

Some times hardware gives up but that's the way it is.

Keep the kids away from your big bad machine.
 
fmichaels said:
so just paint it black and be done with it right? no copper showing (unless you like that it that way)
Click to expand...

Yup. I thought about upgrading and I decided I'd just shoot some Rustoleum on the old one and see what happens. I've replaced everything in the cooling system except the radiator.

I do remember in my old blown Rustang that it needed a larger radiator when I went to the Paxton. Those things really heat the engine up!

Man I'm glad they don't make blower kits for the 1500's.
 
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