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Tony, that throwout bearing is a separated 1275 carbon bearing. Look at the release fork. The 1500 looks more like a Chevy, and is entirely internal to the bell housing. The clutch slave mounts at about 9 oclock, viewed from the back, at the rear of the bell housing.
Jeff
Jeff
John, my Sprite book says to heat the ring gear to between 572 and 752 degrees Fahrenheit, and then putting it on the flywheel. I normally just use the kitchen oven, and put the flywheel in the freezer overnight.
As far as the removal of the old one, they suggest splitting the gear with a cold chisel. I generally use a cutoff wheel in a die grinder to thin a spot as much as possible, and then, one good whack and it's off.
Jeff
As far as the removal of the old one, they suggest splitting the gear with a cold chisel. I generally use a cutoff wheel in a die grinder to thin a spot as much as possible, and then, one good whack and it's off.
Jeff
77_MG_Midget
Jedi Trainee
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You may be right Jeff. I personally have not tried this, just reading in the GT manual. I read the link someone posted about heating it on a grill. I disagree with some of what was said there. First off, you heat metal until getting blue in color is around 1,000 degrees... too hot... you'll start remove the tempering. Then it says to cool with oil.. this is ok, but does not restore the tempering without gradual reheating, which time/temp depends on the metal composition.
I'm not sure either about freezing the flywheel. I'm certainly no expert, but I'd be cautious about puting a hot piece of metal onto a freezing cold one. I'd worry about fatigue cracks from the rapid temp change.
I know when I've had pistons/rods done that are interference fit (chevy rods), they've only heated the rod, never chilled the wrist pin before putting them together.
But again, like I said, I'm certainly no expert when it comes to heat treating metals.
I'm not sure either about freezing the flywheel. I'm certainly no expert, but I'd be cautious about puting a hot piece of metal onto a freezing cold one. I'd worry about fatigue cracks from the rapid temp change.
I know when I've had pistons/rods done that are interference fit (chevy rods), they've only heated the rod, never chilled the wrist pin before putting them together.
But again, like I said, I'm certainly no expert when it comes to heat treating metals.
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I've done this many times. Jeff's method is about the same as what I've used. At times have been able to substitute a western Pennsylvania concrete back porch in winter for the freezer, but oven temp at 450°~500°F, some GOOD tongs and a hasty; "MAKE A HOLE!"... ring fairly SLIPS over the flywheel. Just be darned sure which way you put it INTO the oven. They're hard to "flip" with tongs. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
...and th' clock's runnin'
...and th' clock's runnin'
John, by the time you get the flywheel out of the freezer, and onto the surface where you are going to drop the ring gear in place, it is no longer freezing cold. I've done it like this for years with no problems. I know my oven temperature accurately, and normally would set it toward the low side of the suggested heat range. A small dab from the appropriate temp stick doesn't hurt, if overtemping the gear is a concern.
I certainly would never even approach the 1000 degree mark.
The Sprite manual does recommend "natural" cooling, which I have always interpreted to mean air cooling in still air.
I did my GT6 gear using the oven, and it hasn't fallen off or exploded yet!
Jeff
I certainly would never even approach the 1000 degree mark.
The Sprite manual does recommend "natural" cooling, which I have always interpreted to mean air cooling in still air.
I did my GT6 gear using the oven, and it hasn't fallen off or exploded yet!
Jeff
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Tempering is not affected by anything like the temps a kitchen oven can achieve, and the flywheel is a great-giant lump, hardly affected by the gear temp at the interface, even at "freezing" temps. Certainly not to a point of crystalisation or embrittlement to cause craze-cracking. All these temperature variants do is take advantage of the coefficient of expansion of the materials. It won't change the basic metallurgy one bit. "Interference fit". Couple thousandths. At the working temps for the task metallurgy is moot. It's worked for me for YEARS too, with NO surprises.
[ QUOTE ]
How much does a junk yard fly wheel cost?
[/ QUOTE ]
Morris, probably 25 bucks, and you will more than likely get a junkyard ring gear.
Swapping a ring gear is no big deal. Five minutes to remove the old one, and once it comes out of the oven, about thirty seconds to drop the new one in place.
Jeff
How much does a junk yard fly wheel cost?
[/ QUOTE ]
Morris, probably 25 bucks, and you will more than likely get a junkyard ring gear.
Swapping a ring gear is no big deal. Five minutes to remove the old one, and once it comes out of the oven, about thirty seconds to drop the new one in place.
Jeff
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Jeff - I'll bow to your knowledge of Midgets - I don't know them as well as B's....but I do know the 1500 & 1275 units are different.
startech47
Jedi Knight
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The side of the clutch disk you can see in the picture should be facing away from the flywheel when installed. The smaller diameter disk trapping the anti-chatter springs will hit the bolts holding the flywheel onto the crankshaft and not allow the cluth to disengage, if the disk is installed backwards. The flywheel surface appears to be burnt and blued. Definitly needs to be resurfaced. Same with the pressure plate. Looks like the clutch was worn out and replaced by the PO with the clutch disc installed backwards.
The release bearing is separated. Is there any wear on the steel housing of the release bearing around the carbon insert where it would contact the pressure plate? If so the carbon was worn so bad the clutch would not release. The carbon should be proud of the steel housing by about a 1/4". There should be 2 spring clips attaching the release bearing to the clutch fork.
My friend changed the clutch in his 3000, it wouldn't release, we pulled the transmission for a second time (an all nighter)and turned the clutch disc around. It now worked perfectly.
For weird clutches check out a Rambler e-stick clutch. Alberto came over and changed his clutch in our garage. After he finished he pushed in the clutch pedal and all he got was grinding when he tried to put it in gear. Exhausting all possibilities I told Alberto to try and put it in gear without pushing the clutch pedal. It went right in and the car accelerated when you pushed in on the clutch pedal. For this year of Rambler they had a normal clutch set up and the e-stick setup. There was a huge spring on the linkage that supplied the force to engage the clutch. The pressure plate just flopped around when you shook it. The auto parts store sold him the wrong setup. After putting the correct parts in it worked perfectly. Don't know how the release bearing survived as it was loaded while the car was in motion.
The release bearing is separated. Is there any wear on the steel housing of the release bearing around the carbon insert where it would contact the pressure plate? If so the carbon was worn so bad the clutch would not release. The carbon should be proud of the steel housing by about a 1/4". There should be 2 spring clips attaching the release bearing to the clutch fork.
My friend changed the clutch in his 3000, it wouldn't release, we pulled the transmission for a second time (an all nighter)and turned the clutch disc around. It now worked perfectly.
For weird clutches check out a Rambler e-stick clutch. Alberto came over and changed his clutch in our garage. After he finished he pushed in the clutch pedal and all he got was grinding when he tried to put it in gear. Exhausting all possibilities I told Alberto to try and put it in gear without pushing the clutch pedal. It went right in and the car accelerated when you pushed in on the clutch pedal. For this year of Rambler they had a normal clutch set up and the e-stick setup. There was a huge spring on the linkage that supplied the force to engage the clutch. The pressure plate just flopped around when you shook it. The auto parts store sold him the wrong setup. After putting the correct parts in it worked perfectly. Don't know how the release bearing survived as it was loaded while the car was in motion.
Tony, have you noticed that I rarely answer a question regarding an MGB? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I've had Spridgets in one form or another for what seems like forever, and never owned a B. I raced a 1500 Spitfire for a number of years, so became very familiar with the 1500 setup.
And, I learn something new here every day.
Jeff
I've had Spridgets in one form or another for what seems like forever, and never owned a B. I raced a 1500 Spitfire for a number of years, so became very familiar with the 1500 setup.
And, I learn something new here every day.
Jeff
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Matthew E. Herd
Jedi Warrior
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Jeeze Jeff, that's a huge rollbar for you ... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif