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John_Mc
Jedi Knight
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I'm resuscitating this thread as I think it's a very good one. My question is, are the SAE nuts and bolts available locally (OSH, Home Depot, etc.) compatible with our UNF threads? Is the pitch the same? In some applications I can just replace a matching nut and bolt together but in others I need to match the threads on the existing part. I seem to be having trouble finding a match at Home Depot, but I hate to have to mail order every nut and bolt individually as I replace them. Answers and/or solutions?
martx-5
Yoda
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Yes, the UNF threads on the TR's are the same as what we have here. Just look for the "fine threaded" nuts and bolts. I've bought fine threaded nuts and bolts from Home Depot. Their selection isn't very large, but in the more common sizes (1/4-28, 5/16-24, 3/8-24) they had a lot of what I needed.
PeterK
Yoda
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If you're rebuilding the whole suspension, go to Fastenall and buy a bag of 100 grade8 nylocs, or McMaster online for that matter. But for onesies twosies, and for fasteners that are not critical to preserving your life (like body mounting bolts,) HD or Lowe's stock Grade5 fine thread hardware in common sizes and are cheap.
What you will find is that many of the TR bolts are 1/4" sizes that you won't find locally and will have to be ordered. An example is the two ball joint bolts on TR4-TR6s, as well as many other front suspension bolts. The 1/2" increment bolts are too long, and if you use Grade8 for suspension (which is my recommendation), you won't be able to cut to length because they are hardened, so you'll have to grind them to length or pay up and get the proper length.
I've got to chime back in on lock nuts. Most of the lock nuts used on TRs are nylocs. They are a one-time use item; once removed, they should be replaced. On critical parts, ALWAYS use new.
All metal lock nuts (metal deforming nuts) are a must on the driveshaft u-joints. You don't want to risk one of the flange bolts coming loose.
But the trouble with using all metal lock nuts everwhere is that they are metal deforming and that obtain their holding power by deforming the bolt thread. After repeated use of them, you have to replace the bolt.
What you will find is that many of the TR bolts are 1/4" sizes that you won't find locally and will have to be ordered. An example is the two ball joint bolts on TR4-TR6s, as well as many other front suspension bolts. The 1/2" increment bolts are too long, and if you use Grade8 for suspension (which is my recommendation), you won't be able to cut to length because they are hardened, so you'll have to grind them to length or pay up and get the proper length.
I've got to chime back in on lock nuts. Most of the lock nuts used on TRs are nylocs. They are a one-time use item; once removed, they should be replaced. On critical parts, ALWAYS use new.
All metal lock nuts (metal deforming nuts) are a must on the driveshaft u-joints. You don't want to risk one of the flange bolts coming loose.
But the trouble with using all metal lock nuts everwhere is that they are metal deforming and that obtain their holding power by deforming the bolt thread. After repeated use of them, you have to replace the bolt.
OP
Guest
Guest
Guest
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Tinster said:
You did what? Dale, if you are referring to the ultra-high strength bolts that affix the clutch to the flywheel, there is no way you should use Lowe's-quality bolts here. I know that there are aircraft-grade bolts that are at least grade 8 quality. I would never trust a big-box store grade 8 bolt in a critical application.
OP
Tinster
Guest
Guest
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Hey Bill,
You mis-read my post. I purchase from a specialty
fastener shop. DPO Pedro used K-Mart, Lowes's krap
fasteners. I buy nothing from the cut rate centers.
I use only high strength No 8s for anything that moves
or experiences high vibration. And I buy according to
Allan's suggestion about shank length.
Costly yes. But I have too much time invested in this car
to cut corners on fasteners. I never re-use existing
fasteners if I can help it.
d
You mis-read my post. I purchase from a specialty
fastener shop. DPO Pedro used K-Mart, Lowes's krap
fasteners. I buy nothing from the cut rate centers.
I use only high strength No 8s for anything that moves
or experiences high vibration. And I buy according to
Allan's suggestion about shank length.
Costly yes. But I have too much time invested in this car
to cut corners on fasteners. I never re-use existing
fasteners if I can help it.
d
OP
Guest
Guest
Guest
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I didn't think, with your professional background, that you would succumb to big-box mentality, Dale. Too many late-night posts. Or my blurry vision.