• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)

Project Latest

Share this page

Re: Project up-date

This is a better picture of the overall car after I took the booth down tonight and removed the masking. The panels are still just hung in place with a few bolts. I am disappointed in the ammount of dust that got in the clear. I really need to finish the car so i don't have the time to sand it and try again, maybe next year.

Have not planned on the VTR as of yet, well see.

Greg
 

Attachments

  • 15243.jpg
    15243.jpg
    98.3 KB · Views: 295
Re: Project up-date

I see the Kirkey seat, oil cooler cutout, aluminum front plate and the frame mounted bar. Is this for vintage or SCCA Club racing? What other goodies does you have for it. Please share the engine, drivetrain and suspension details when you get the time. Really like the color on your 3.
 
Re: Project up-date

Hmm. Is this going to be a Beta?
 
Re: Project up-date

I think that was Nick's point, the fenders do look a little wide. But I don't <span style="font-weight: bold">think </span>they are as wide as a Beta; and perhaps it's just a trick of the light or something. Here's a shot of a real one.
 
Re: Project up-date

Well, he has a late TR4 frame under there (look at the rack&pinion mount), so I bet its about 3" wider!
 
Re: Project up-date

That dust is a real bitch, isn't it? We also did our own painting in my son's basement and if I had to do it over there's stuff I would do differently. We were constrained by time and budget, but assuming a bit more money and a bit more time I would have:

1. Done more bodywork preparation. We blasted down to bare metal and knocked out all the major dents, repaired any holes, and bondoed over the small imperfections, but in retrospect we didn't achieve as smooth a surface as we could have. That probably comes with experience.

2. I would have bought more paint than my worst estimates. Better to have more than enough than not quite enough. As it was, I ended up with about an ounce of extra paint.

3. I would be unbelievable anal about dust. We hung plastic sheeting from the basement ceiling to protect the other stuff in the basement and cut down on dust, but we ended up having to use a fan and a slightly open door to help vent the fumes (We very VERY anal about safety - I used a full bunny suit and a positive pressure fresh air face mask). I would paint only during the day (at night the bugs are attracted to the lights and seem to love dive bombing into fresh paint as I learned to my dismay). I would wet down the floor before starting to paint to keep the dust down. The paint itself makes an incredible amount of dust that gets stirred up anytime you walk around.
 
Re: Project up-date

TR4nut said:
Well, he has a late TR4 frame under there (look at the rack&pinion mount),
Click to expand...
Why so it is! I thought the mount was just added, but should have spotted the wider rail sections under the front apron.
 
Re: Project up-date

Side note on painting, I learned this from a friend, when painting inside a plastic booth, if you wet the floor down with water before you spray it keeps the dust down, but really nice paint job anyway
 
Re: Project up-date

I was wetting the floor when I panted the underside and interior, very minimal dust. I then read a book that said that was a bad idea, something about water and paint not liking each other, so I went with thedry floor for the top side. Bod mistake. If you ever try this without a professional down draft booth, wet the floors and the plastic sheeting to trap the dust. I am soo irritated I did not follow my instinct on that one. Oh well, live and learn.

Engine will be built with stock crank undercut to accept chevy rod bearings, 87mm Wiseco pistons, Eagle Chevy rods which required small spacers on the pins to make this a piston guided rod, L. Young cam, BFE valves, home ported head (see if that does any good), shaved about 1/8" off the head.
Stock flywheel undercut with a lightened ring gear
4 speed TR transmission.
Southwick rear axles setup with welded spider gears
 
Re: Project up-date

Greg,
Please take pics of the engine modifications while it's being done...sounds interesting.
I've read in one of Kas's books about replacing rods etc. with US iron. What advantage were/are you seeking by this mod?
Just a suggestion while you're doing all of this work, get a 5 speed box conversion...you won't believe the dif.
 
Re: Project up-date

Greg_Blake said:
Engine will be built with stock crank undercut to accept chevy rod bearings, 87mm Wiseco pistons, Eagle Chevy rods which required small spacers on the pins to make this a piston guided rod, L. Young cam, BFE valves, home ported head (see if that does any good), shaved about 1/8" off the head.
Click to expand...

That's a lot off the bottom of the head.... 0.125. What's your expected compression ratio? Are you running dished pistons to account for the lost valve clearance?
 
Back
Top