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Pro & Con's of Pertronix vs Points

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But that 1.5 ohms or more on the low voltage side is where the issue may lie.
That resistance changes the current through the pickup.
 
I have ran three sets (XR700 Fireball). 62 Bug, 72 Midget and now my Spit. two ofthe set ups were out of parts cars so I had no instructons on how to install or trouble shoot.
Pros:
quicker starts, smoother running, reliable in cold weather, easy to install, Piece of mind.
Cons:
trouble shooting. finding a place to mount the control box.
 
Here is where my research got me on this;

Safe harbor for a Pertronix Ignitor is;
1) Pertronix coil w/ Pertronix Ignitor
2) 3.0 Ohm Coil w/ Pertronix Ignitor
3) 1.5 Ohm Coil w/ a ballast resistor in the circut and Pertronix Ignitor

The Lucas Sport coil evidential is available in both Ohms, but most commonly in 1.5 Ohm version which will fry your Ignitor if you don't put an external ballast resistor in the circuit.
 
OK, I realize the question was about Pertronix, not the coil. But.....

About 3,000 miles ago I did install the Pertronix Ignitor because my dizzy shaft had a slight wobbling (coulda just had it rebuilt I guess). Since then, the Pertronix performs flawlessly.

But, about that coil. I went with a Pertronix Flamethrower coil to match. It was offered in both 1.5 ohms and 3.0 ohms. With no other info or input, I ordered the 1.5 ohm model. But, I have always wondered to this day if that was the right choice.

As I said, the package has performed flawlessly for me.

Bob
 
Ahhhh... Pertronix v Points, DOT5 v DOT4, Toe-may-toe v Toe-mah-toe, Boxers v Briefs.

Have to remember it is winter in some parts of the world.
 
RJS said:
OK, I realize the question was about Pertronix, not the coil. But.....

About 3,000 miles ago I did install the Pertronix Ignitor because my dizzy shaft had a slight wobbling (coulda just had it rebuilt I guess). Since then, the Pertronix performs flawlessly.

But, about that coil. I went with a Pertronix Flamethrower coil to match. It was offered in both 1.5 ohms and 3.0 ohms. With no other info or input, I ordered the 1.5 ohm model. But, I have always wondered to this day if that was the right choice.

As I said, the package has performed flawlessly for me.

Bob
Click to expand...
I know that it can be confusing.
If you have a ballasted ignition system you need the 1.5 ohm coil. If you have the straight 12 volt non-ballasted system you need the 3.0 ohm coil.
A ballasted coil has the 12 volts that the coil is fed when the starter is operating to something less by swithching the 12 volt feed thru a resistor when the engine starts to run on it's own and thereby reduces the feed voltage to the coil to about 8 volts in the case of the TR6.
The reduced voltage is capable of producing the same voltage output as the fulltime 12 volt coil because of the appropriate ratio of secondary to primary coils inside the coil.
By providing 12 volts to a ballasted coil when the starter is engaged, that ratio designed for a lesser voltage feed creates a higher output for faster starting in a cold engine.
By feeding a 1.5 ohm coil that's designed for ballast the full 12 volts all the time the engine is running, the coil may overheat and have a shortened life.
Here's a little something to add:
https://www.vtr.org/maintain/ballast.shtml
 
I installed Pertronix in my TR6 after having serious troubles during routine maintenance that included changing the points, condensor, etc. I think the new condensor was at fault, but after the change-over (and 2 years), I've had no problems.

The points allow you to set the timing with an ohm meter or test-light, while the electronics do not.

The wiring in my electronic unit is not exactly the same as 'original', so my spare (points/condensor/plate/wires) is an all-inclusice set that fits in a baggie in the glove box.

When I finally get around to getting my TR3 running, I'll start with points/etc, but plan to upgrade to electronic by the time the points show wear. The new system fits completly inside the cap -there's no box to add, though there is an extra (hot) wire.
 
Points with an MSD6 capasitive discharge ignition box...they store elec impulse and deliver over a larger crank rotation with a hotter multiple or single spark.
That system make adjustment almost a non issue as long as they open close.
It also keeps the points from pitting...low levels of elec pit the points but a hotter discharge keeps them like new...after 6k points look new.
 
My 1969 TR6 had the Pertronix ignition when I bought it and I did not know about leaving the ignition key on. I did this a few times and it did not cause any problem. When I learned of the danger of this I put a push on terminal on the coil and just pull it off when I need to leave the ignition key on for other trouble shooting. Has worked so far.

I have thought about going back to points just to see how it affects performance.

Good luck, Pete
 
I prefer my Allison optical(Crane for you younger folks) with an MSD6..Same principle as used by a couple of Mopars over the years.



Someday I'll put the Ford thin film unit in a distributor just for kicks..
 
Geo Hahn said:
Ahhhh... Pertronix v Points, DOT5 v DOT4, Toe-may-toe v Toe-mah-toe, Boxers v Briefs.

Have to remember it is winter in some parts of the world.
Click to expand...

Points, DOT 5, Toe-may-toe, commando
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Ahhhh... Pertronix v Points, DOT5 v DOT4, Toe-may-toe v Toe-mah-toe, Boxers v Briefs.

Have to remember it is winter in some parts of the world.


Points, DOT 5, Toe-may-toe, commando
[/QUOTE]

You forgot ZDDP in that list.........
 
Both are nice,but,IMHO just get a Mallory or the new 123 dizzy.
I can't remember when the last time a factory dizzy has let me down in the last 2-300,000 miles.
 
RJS said:
OK, I realize the question was about Pertronix, not the coil. But.....

About 3,000 miles ago I did install the Pertronix Ignitor because my dizzy shaft had a slight wobbling (coulda just had it rebuilt I guess). Since then, the Pertronix performs flawlessly.

But, about that coil. I went with a Pertronix Flamethrower coil to match. It was offered in both 1.5 ohms and 3.0 ohms. With no other info or input, I ordered the 1.5 ohm model. But, I have always wondered to this day if that was the right choice.

As I said, the package has performed flawlessly for me.

Bob
Click to expand...
Bob, You can also open up your plug gap when using the flamethrower, I have the ignitor and flamethrower in the B with the gap set at.035 and the increase in power is extremely noticeable.
Mike
 
I have had Petronix on my last three cars, no issues, wasn't aware of the ignition on burn out problem until reading about it here, I gnerally don't and didn't leave the ignition on for long periods anyway, but have for short periods.

Biggest issue I had was newly rebuilt engine without timing marks and static timing the thing with the Petronix.

I think Grassroots Motorsports tested these and they showed to be adding 2 or 3 horsepower, if you have gotten into the adding power game at less than $100 on sale this is not a bad deal.

I have actually notice more of a differnce in smoothness and willingness to rev in the upper ranges than in smoother idle after installing a Pertronix.

Greg
 
Mike,

Thanks for the info about opening the plug gap. I've been running the stock 0.025" gap but, saw the earlier comments about the weakest spark needed will cross the gap. So, not opening the gap I can understand you're not getting the full potential of the more powerful coil. So, I'll check out a wider gap this weekend.

I'll further add that with the Pertronix I can say the car idles rock steady and revs very willingly to 4,000 RPM.

Bob
 
I love the Pet.
have had no failures and have left the key on (in accessory) for hours
love that AM radio :smile:
 
I have a Crane Xr700 on the Herald. Smarter than the Pertronix since it shuts off if the engine isn't running solving the burn out problem. Seems to work just fine.
 
I installed the Pet in 2006 and no issues. And I have let my ignition in the Acc position for 10- 15 mins at a time and no burn out

Hondo
 
Remember the acronym KISS? I haven't touched my points in over 4000 miles -probably won't for thousands more and it runs great!
 
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