• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Pre-Lube Systems

  • Thread starter Deleted member 451
  • Start date

Share this page

D

Deleted member 451

Guest
Guest
Offline
There have been several posts recently about the cost of an engine overhaul. Has anyone used one of the engine pre-lube systems? The types that use an accumulator and T off the oil sending unit fitting are less than $200.
Any thoughts?
 
That is interesting Bill. Since many of do not use our cars every day and there can be extended periods when they are not used at all like during the winter months this might be a very good idea. I for one am interested in learning more.
 
Did you see where the FTC slapped down the company that was claiming most engine wear took place at startup ?

IMO, as long as there is a film of oil left on the contact surfaces, even just a few molecules thick, then no unusual damage or wear is going to occur during the few seconds it takes the pump to build pressure. And since the damage would be severe without that film, it must be there.

I once dropped a TR oil pan and then got interrupted on the project. When I pulled the bearing caps roughly a year later, there was still enough oil to literally drip off the crankshaft.

So, again IMO, if you want to do something special to try to reduce wear; better to fog some oil into the cylinders at shutdown before storage and again before you fire it up. The rings & cylinder walls are more likely to suffer any problem than the bearings are (especially the cylinders that remain exposed to atmosphere because the valves are open), and injecting oil into the galleries isn't going to do anything for them.
 
Randall, sounds like you're saying an investment to protect the engine is not needed here.

I must disagree.

The valve train on any internal combustion non flathead engine is affected more tha a lot of people realize by lack of oil. Accelerated Wear occurs with out good oil supply present.

Bottom end of the engine is different because usually there is a somewhat "sealed" situation where the bearing caps are still bolted on.

I have seen numerous valve train accelerated wear failures due to lack of lube. I feel that an oiler system is beneficial to any engine that is not run for awhile.

IT SURE CAN'T HURT!
 
I agree that lack of lubrication can cause accelerated wear to the valve train; I've seen it myself. But if there was adequate lubrication when the engine was shut down, I believe there will be enough of an oil film left to prevent excess wear on startup. We're only talking a few seconds here, and I've seen a valve train with absolutely no oil whatsoever except whatever ran down after an oil change go well over 10,000 miles. The rings & bearings will need replacement before the valve train does (and who would rebuild the engine without doing the valve train ?)

The car makers seem to agree, since I'm not aware of any modern car that uses a pre-oiler. And the Federal Trade Commision has ruled that the claims of excess engine wear at startup are unfounded marketing hype. Why would you buy an improvement from someone you know is lying to you ?

Probably won't hurt as you say; but don't forget that extra quart of oil at every oil change (and to take steps to empty the old oil out of the accumulator).

So tell us, Ron, are you going to run out and put one on your TR6 ? I'd love for you to prove me wrong (but I doubt either of us will live that long).
 
I have only seen Accu-sump systems (or equivalent by some other name) on racing cars. It was my impression that they were mostly used in classes that prohibited dry sump oiling systems. The accumulator holds oil under pressure while the engine is running. If, in a long, high-G turn, the oil in the pan goes to one side and the oil pump sucks air, then the Accu-sump will supply engine oil at pressure for a brief period. When the oil pump gets oil again, it will refill the Accu-sump reservoir. The ability to pre-lube the engine always seemed to be secondary.

Bryan
 
Why?

I enlarged the oil feed hole through the head to the rocker shaft, hardened shaft(thinking about going rollers later). Yes I did have an AccuSump on my 40Ford with the 265 Chevy in it. As I would go away and not start it for 5-6 months sometimes. I thought it was well worth the 183 dollars it cost me.

Even though it was not a dry sump it had the small block chevy problem of oil draining down. Smokey Yunick declaimed Chebby for that problem, on his writings is what I based my purchase of the AccuSump on. And that was a couple of decades ago.

I have a great deal of respect for Smokey and tend to give what was written and said by him, credence.
 
I plan on adding a preoiler to my fresh rebuild. Located a goverment surplus 12volt oil pump from GROBAN, an outfit out of Chicago. The pressure is adjustable. I plan on running a filtered line straight from the oilpan into the oil plug in the block with a check valve. The pump supplies 75 psi in a few seconds and can run for several minutes.
 
Iv'e got a pre oiler on my TR8.
It was installed by the PO. Nice unit, oil pick up from the oil pan, modified drain plug with a hose connected to it goes to the pump, pressure feeds into the oil filter housing, hit the spring loaded switch, pump runs, 15 secs later the load on the pump increases and that's it.
I sometimes forget it's installed but only really use it when it's not been run for a few days. Normal driving in the summer I hardly use it as I don't believe it's necessary.
No accumulator installed just hoses, relay and the elec pump.
 
Have you ever thought of this?
Install a pressure switch in the line from the pump to the filter housing that activates when the load increases on the pump, connect the starter circuit to this switch, connect the pump wires to the start position on the ignition switch.
When you turn the key to start, the pump will start, when the pressure builds up the starter is engaged by the pressure switch making everything automatic.
The biggest problem I see with the accumulator system is that they turn on and off with the ignition switch, so the stored oil pressure would be the same as the oil pressure of a warm engine at idle.
 
Bill, on the race cars, I typically run the engine at 2500 or so for a few seconds prior to shutdown, to build pressure back up in the Accusump. When I re-start, I power everything up, and don't hit the starter util I have pressure on the gauge.
If anyone <u>does</u> install an electric Accusump, be sure to install a switch to disable the valve in case you have the ignition on, without firing it up.
That way you're not dumping the accumulator without starting the engine.
Jeff
 
Back
Top