POR-15 & brush marks? Spray Version?

[71MKIV]

I used por 15 black on the outside window pillars on my chevy station wagon. It took about a year and a half or so before the paint started to noticeably fade, and interestingly it went from gloass black, straight to gloss clear.

 

[pjsmetana]

... interestingly it went from gloss black, straight to gloss clear.

Ok, well, this makes me not want to use it without painting over it as well. I'm really quite worried this will look like rubbish in the long run. I think maybe I'll completely clear the deck, wirebrush and Ospho, filler skim coat it, then prime and paint it. Maybe I can find a nice sheet of aluminum or stainless to put down on it as well. I'm really not going to chance it looking horrible in a year or 2.

Thanks for all your input everyone! Greatly appreciated!

 

[apbos]

Here is what I do. Paint the bare metal with Por 15 then brush or spray a cover of semi-gloss black rustoleum over the POR 15 when it is not yet dry to the touch. Now you can touch up the rustoleum if you need too and it is tough as nails.


Paul

 

[Jerseygirl]

I painted the engine in my 1800ES with POR-15 then topcoated it with one of their engine enamels. It still looks great 3 years later. Nothing has flaked off and it still shines as well as it did when I painted it. And best of all, no brush strokes to be seen anywhere. I could not be happier.

That said, I followed ALL of POR-15's instructions and cleaned the engine with their Marine Clean product thoroughly first, followed by treatment with their Metal Ready.

I've also used POR-15 on bare metal parts with very good success. We had the entire front suspension of the 1800 media blasted so it was definitely down to bare metal. Again, I used the Metal Ready to prep the surface before applying the POR-15. 3 years on and everything is still looking beautiful under there. No chips or flakes anywhere. I did topcoat the POR-15 on those parts with their Chassis Black paint. I wasn't worried about the UV problem on those parts, I just didn't want the gloss black finish of the POR-15. I think they sell it in a black semi-gloss finish now, so that would have saved me a few steps (and some money).

Good luck!

 

[jsfbond]

I tried the POR-15 on the inside of the car, but used SEM products on the underside. The sem contains rust inhibitors, and can be be sprayed. brushed, or rolled on.

 

[dklawson]

That said, I followed ALL of POR-15's instructions

I've also used POR-15 on bare metal parts with very good success. We had the entire front suspension of the 1800 media blasted

And there is the important point. If you try POR on sound metal without blasting/abrading the surface (and/or applying a HEAVY etch with the Metal Ready) it's like applying glass on glass. The roughened surface is what allows POR to stick to bare metal parts.

 

[Guest]

Other than cosmetics, I think the topcoat is there for UV protection - POR15 alone doesn't like to be in direct sunlight.

ISTR the POR folk also say that the UV damage is only cosmetic and doesn't affect the performance of the paint.

How long in direct sun are we talking about? When I've got it in a show the bonnet is open all day.

I got it on my trailer tongue and it just fades from that shiny color.

Yeah, I did a test on my gate two years ago and on my trailer and it took a LOOONG time to "fade" and it was just the "gloos" (even though it was flat to begin w/).


I think the UV warning is more to sell top coat than anything else. Just don't paint your whole car and expect it to be shiney forever.