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pneumatic bleeder

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Have you tried compressing the slave piston fully into the bore? I have used welding vicegrips. Makes the bore as small as possible.

Peter
 
Weird! So, this last summer I was able to bleed the clutch and adjust the pushrod out and the clutch worked perfectly. This time, I did the same and I'm not sure as to which rod I reinstalled to the clutch side. When I ordered a new slave cylinder I also ordered a new push rod. It is almost an inch longer than the one I am running. I took a 1/2 inch off so that it would fit into place. It works!! The clutch feels as it did this last summer. Won't know if it is perfect until I can take her for a spin. Yeah, it started raining as I was closing the hood.... I someone trying to tell me something? :frown:

My question is:

Am I masking a problem?
WHy is this now working?
WIll it be okay to leave as long as the clutch continues to work as it should?
 
Well, there you go! That rod length is kinda important to be correct!!
 
I must not have been getting enough travel. I still don't know why I couldn't get the bubbles bled out of the master???? I guess ignorance will be bliss as long as it all works.
 
With the wrong rod length, you could just be circulating air in the MC because the cups are lining up wrong with the holes in the bottom of the MC and still be getting a little pressure at the slave!
 
O.K. I noticed that the rod I got with the new slave is shorter as well. In fact if I put it in the piston the piston can't move enough to disengage the clutch. I'm having tons of truoble and can't figure out whats going on. Currently I'm using the older rod that is a little longer than the new one, but I'm still having problems. I've bled in both directions, used the brake bleeder, new master, new slave, new hose, hanging slave, attached slave, pedal pump, vacuum pump, and pressure bleeder. I've tried it all. :frown:
 
Yep, me as well. Not sure what to do next. However, the length of the rod, as long as it can go both directions without hitting anything is as good as it gets.
 
Not a fun problem. I think everyone has different solutions because everyone's system has its own issues :wink: I know there will be comments on that one, but it is true. The rod that I got through Moss was about an inch longer that the one I had cut per instructions of the rebuilder. It would not physically fit into place so I had to cut it down. About a 1/2 inch longer than the old one did the trick. The other thing that I did that seemed to be part of the successful process is bleed with the old rod in place. Had very little play between the rod and the mc piston. Once I felt that there was a good bleed I adjusted the rod towards the mc (making it longer) an now it works. That's all I got. I think I might have just gotten lucky, but it worked last summer in a similar fashion and now it works again--perfectly.
 
Interesting. I used a pressure bleeder again tonight and it seems I have a strong pedal with nice, solid movement on the slave. I did this last night with the same results, but this morning the clutch felt soft again. Makes me think I'm getting air in the system over time due to a leak. All parts are replaced that could leak but the tubing, and it looks good. I don't see any leaking around the battery area.

healeyboz; how did you adjust the rod? just cut it?

I needed some success tonight, so I changed the oil.-and spilled 1/2 quart on the floor! :frown: Some days you should just sit back and look at things a while. :wink:
 
Nah, I was lazy. I used the grinding wheel. Took her down to the size that I wanted and then rounded the edge. Check this out.

Have someone push in the clutch pedal while you are watching the slave rod. Does it move? It probably does. It is just probably not moving enough to fully engage the clutch.

When the clutch pedal is not depressed how far in, would you say, is the mc piston? Is it all the way out before the pedal is pushed?
 
Down here in Johannesburg

I had a similar problem with my 1500 Midget some years ago. Then I realized that the tubing (flexible type) was higher than the master cylinder as the tubing went past the battery down through the body to the slave. I undid the pedal connection, picked up the master higher much higher, poured in the clutch fluid, let gravity take care of the bubbles and reassembled. No bleeding required.
 
The rod sets on the cylinder about half way in. I looked about a week ago and it did move the clutch arm. I'll check again, as well as how far the master rod moves. I think the idea about the tubing being higher than the master is probably correct in my case as well. I'll take a look at it.
 
My tube is higher than the mc as well. The rod is half way in or the mc piston is pushed half way in?
 
Ok I 'think' I have this fixed. I'm not confident yet, but
-I think my master piston is almost fully out when the pedal is up (foot off) but the piston on the slave is about 1/2 way in. (sorry I wasn't very clear)


I think I have the air out of my clutch. I replaced the master and the slave and replaced the braided line with a cheap rubber replacement and then I used a pressure bleeder (motive). I drained all the fluid I could out of the system and then filled the slave and the master before installing them. I then attached the pressure bleeder which continues to fill the master with fluid and pumped it to 10psi. I then went to the slave and opened the bleeder while hanging. put it together then went to bed. The next day I got in the car and pushed the clutch as fast and hard as I could for about 40 pumps, banged on everything and then did another 10 psi bleed. 24hrs later the pedal is still hard and looks like I'm getting good travel on the clutch arm. We'll see but it looks like trial after trial may have been the trick. I will say I do like the bleeder. I had tried to vacuum method, but noticed it sucked air around the bleeder screw so it was hard to tell if there was actually air in the system. I also liked that with the pressure bleeder I didn't have to worry about running out of fluid in the master. I'll try my brakes next. I'll keep you posted.
 
A good test would be to have someone in the car. Put the car into first and have them push in the clutch pedal. If you can push the car forward a bit, it works.
 
Also keep in mind that it may work fine at lower RPM but will still have a bit of air in it and will not release correctly at higher RPM, sigh.

I need to get to work on mine but just can not get myself in the mood.
 
Come on Jack we all know you like to put your foot into it. Get motivated again. It's not perfect and we all know you've been "noodling" this one for a long time.

Gotta tease you, I've got to get motivated on Bugsy again. Almost 60 today and zero progress on Bugsy last two weeks. New puppy has absolutely eaten up all spare time kepping her and the 8 y.o. pooch apart. Older dog does not like a very aggressive Peekapoo intruding on her territory.
 
Man, it is yard time of the year. Been doing my thing out there. Sure will be glad when it is done for the summer and I can move on to other things.

I have spent so much time on the clutch it is just hard to get going, but I will.
 
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