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Tips
Tips

pneumatic bleeder

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After bleeding the clutch in the usual way, pull the dust seal and pushrod so you can see the cup that the pushrod rides in. (You'll probably have to have the car up on stands). Use something with a smooth end like a nutdriver and use it to compress the piston all the way closed. It will force fluid (and hopefully bubbles) back into the MC. I just finished doing this. It only took about 20 minutes and I could hear the bubbles entering the MC, so it worked for me!

Just so I don't sound too cocky about this amazing feat, I have spent most of Friday afternoon and all of Saturday trying to get the brakes bled, but that is another story. I did use a garden sprayer to try to pressure bled the brakes, but just made a big mess with it. I'm not sure whether this is important or not, but the process of fooling with the pressurizer may have helped prime the clutch line (the feed line connection to the slave was loose an fluid was leaking out when I got started on the clutch.

I did try to expain to my wife that brake fluid makes a good garage floor sealant, but I don't think she is buying it.

Mike
 
Oh, and Mike, I will try what you are saying. I have pushed the piston up to remove fluid out of the slave through the bleeder. Why do I have to remove the dust seal and push rod on the slave? The dust cover is what holds the piston in place. If it is removed it has the possibility of slipping out. Couldn't I just use the push-rod and keep the dust cover in place and do the same thing?
 
The piston is retained in the slave with a circlip (see attached diagram), so I had no problem with it falling out. I guess you could try to compress the piston with the dust cap and push rod in place. I found it easier just to use a easy- to-hold nutdriver handle to do the pushing. You do have to undo the clevis pin to let the piston fully expand. When I did that, the pushrod and the dust cap pretty much just fell off anyway. With the clevis pin in place, the piston is held back by the clutch springs, so you'd never get a full stroke. The idea of the full stroke is to move enough fluid to clear all the way back to the MC.
 

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Yeah, I would have to detach the pushrod from the clevis pin.
My slave does not have the clip to hold it in place. It fell out yesterday. I hate that it is not the way it is supposed to be, but with it hooked up to the clevis pin the piston will not fall out. hmmm?
 
healeyboz said:
Yeah, it is a MESS!

Kim,
So are you saying just keep going through fluid until it works?
Click to expand...
No, you will go through fluid forever until you find some other way to get the air out. The master does not move enough fluid in one pump to get everything out of the line. When you seal the slave bleeder off and let off the master, the fluid gets a chance to get by the air in the line again and you will then get more fluid out the bleeder and still no air. It has to do with how that line goes up above the master and then over to the passenger side and down. I had a leaky slave cylinder and if I ever let the fluid get down to where I had no clutch then I had to go through the same thing again. Its hard to explain, but you need to loosen the line connection at the master and use it as the bleeder and use a pump and pump fluid in the bleeder of the slave and bleed it from the bottom up. If you dont have a pump use the brake bleeder and run a hose from it to the clutch slave bleeder and then pressing the brake pedal will act like a pump.
 
Well, I got the new slave today. It does not have a retainer clip in it either. ?>?? Oh well. I bled the slave with the pneumatic bleeder until It seemed okay. I started the push the slave piston and release the air back into the master technique. Lots of bubbles. Did it for about an hour straight and their are still bubbles coming out.. What in the world is happening? Can the lines be leaking air but not fluid? I know it sounds crazy but how in the world could there be that much air in the line? I don't mind doing this for 6 hours if it will eventually fix the problem. There is plenty of fluid in the master. HELP!
 
healeyboz said:
Well, I got the new slave today. It does not have a retainer clip in it either. ?>?? Oh well. I bled the slave with the pneumatic bleeder until It seemed okay. I started the push the slave piston and release the air back into the master technique. Lots of bubbles. Did it for about an hour straight and their are still bubbles coming out.. What in the world is happening? Can the lines be leaking air but not fluid? I know it sounds crazy but how in the world could there be that much air in the line? I don't mind doing this for 6 hours if it will eventually fix the problem. There is plenty of fluid in the master. HELP!
Click to expand...
I wish I was closer man, when it works, it will work quckly. You have something not right there. I know its frustrating.
 
What type fluid are you using?
 
I ask because silicone brake fluid can be harder to bleed because of all the "micro bubbles". Sometimes you need to let it set for a day before trying again.
 
Whew! You scared me for a minute. I wanted to run silicone so bad!!!!! Y'all know the threads. I gave up the fight and went with conventional. Well, I guess not completely conventional. It is synthetic. I just don't know.....
 
That Valvoline Syntech is good stuff! I would stick with it. Kim is right about the bubbles being allowed to settle for some time! I mentioned before about sucking air, and it is not unheard of that the system can suck air and not leak. Check and tighten ALL connections!
 
I had nightmares last night!!!!! Because it was such a nice day yesterday and I was stuck in the garage working on the car and not taking her out for a drive....

Not too bad. I enjoy working in the garage with the door open for a change.

Here is what I am thinking....
When I get home tonight I will check all connections and try to put an extra turn on them. I will try the reverse bubble bleed one more time. If it doesn't work, I am going to get the larger line that you all told me to get because the slave likes it better. And run the line all the way to the slave, eliminating the braided line.

Is teflon required for these fittings? I have never used it on brake lines before, but who knows? If I replace the lines, I will wrap the fittings.
 
If you run a hard line all the way to the slave, then it will need several coils (3-4) to absorb the vibration. I run a braided line on my car and have had no problems. Don't use teflon tape. the fittings seal on the flares. The tape might prevent you from getting things tight enough.
 
Tape is to seal threads, these fittings do not seal on the threads they seal on the flare. Different deal.
 
healeyboz said:
I just don't get it. How can it keep pumping bubbles?
Click to expand...

Hmmm 1275 slave, right? That takes the rubber hose. The rubber hose MUST have a copper gasket/washer where it joins the slave. It is not a flare fitting. Using an old one, or not using one at all will definitely allow air bubbles in. BTDT.

(I confess I didn't read through the whole thread if this was mentioned before)

Peter
 
The rubber hose was replaced with a braided rubber hose. I have a copper washer in place. Good to hear about the Teflon. I guess I will just have to go through and make sure everything is tight. Don't really know where to go after that.???
 
How tight should they be? I have always took them pretty tight. Second guessing myself at this point. I never wanted to strip anything out.
 
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