Play in Front Wheels

[DrEntropy]

and the pivot point for this movement would be the trunion

The lad has a point!

Bronze. Made to wear. Neglected by about ALL DPOs, dirt and all manner of corruption end up in there to abrade the things.

 

[bigjones]

Happiness in the Jones household!!

As advised, I retorqued the wheel bearing nut to 10 ft lbs then backed off 1/2 flat to insert the split pin. No more wobble!!

Here's some shots of the no-name wheel bearing, cleaned up. Superficially looks OK - no pitting, discoloration. Spins just fine. However, looking close there are scuff marks.

I'm thinking about greasing it up and putting it back in and placing an order for the Timken Bearing kit from TRF and replacing all of the bearings.

Cheers,
Adrian
TS58325

 

[RonMacPherson]

Yup, the rollers are discolored. That means the wear is also transferred to the races.

When you put any tapered roller bearing back in, make sure you have the grease packed between the inner and outer cages between the rollers. You can get an inexpensive packer that works with grease guns, or you can pack it by hand, which is usually lengthier, but more fulfilling.

 

[Brosky]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]but more fulfilling[/QUOTE]

Literally, Ron, literally.

 

[bigjones]

the wear is also transferred to the races.

Ron,

Thanks for the post - advice noted.

Does that mean I should be replacing the races as well. (Don't know why I'm asking that)

Seems BPNW are the only supplier of the races.

They have a neat thing whereby you can ask a question of any part they stock - let's see if they reply - I've asked for the name of the manufacturer of the bearing.

Cheers,
Adrian
TS58325

 

[Brosky]

Yes Adrian.

Always replace the bearings and races as a set. They will come as a set and should be replaced as such.

 

[TR4nut]

If you want Timken, I think Andy Mace posted the part numbers a couple of weeks ago. Should be same for TR3-6 I think.

 

[RonMacPherson]

Also, any good bearing supplier will have the Timken cataalog (it may even be on line, dunno haven't looked) which lists these by application.

 

[19_again]

And since you have and know how to use dial indicator, you probably already know to save the old races as "drifts" to hammer in the new ones.

 

[bigjones]

the old races as "drifts" to hammer in the new ones.

Wow,
Never thought of that. Thanks for the tip! I was committed to buying the seal driver that Number 6 mentioned in another thread:
Bearing Race and Seal Driver

Yeah, that dial indicator has come in useful - Randall recommended it when I was adjusting the end-float on the back axle. Also used it for checking the crankshaft float on the 1500 Midget (thrust washers!) and for checking the disc brake run-out on the Camry - to make sure it was in spec. That paid for itself right there. Got it from Harbor Freight - cheap.

Cheers,
Adrian
TS58325

 

[19_again]

Maybe that's what I need as I reassemble my front hubs, the castellated nut it to be tightened to .003-.005 end float and backed off to allow for cotter pin placement. That procedure is from memory as I'm at work, but the point is it's tough to determine .003 from.006 by hand.
As for using the old race to install the seals , I haven't got to that step yet, but seems logical. This is my first time with Triumph hubs, MGB's don't have the seals.
(at least mine don't :?)

 

[Brosky]

Those dial indicators are the only positive way of testing the crank movement on a TR6 for thrust washer wear, short of pulling the pan and will prevent the pan removal if the movement is within spec.