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TR2/3/3A panellight bulbs
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TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I don't have the number handy, but there is a number. They had to special order them, and could not order less than a box of 10. Wound up costing more and taking longer than just buying them from TRF.
Sorry, don't know of any colored versions. That is a fairly unusual bulb configuration these days (aka obsolete) so there aren't a lot of choices.
Might be fun to try grafting an LED and suitable resistor onto an old bulb base, though. They have wide angle, high output LEDs in a variety of colors now, including red, orange, pink and blue. Be sure to check the actual specs before buying though, as terms like "wide angle" and "high output" don't really have much meaning it seems. Here's some that might do
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-PCs-1W-...071?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ad4929207
Sorry, don't know of any colored versions. That is a fairly unusual bulb configuration these days (aka obsolete) so there aren't a lot of choices.
Might be fun to try grafting an LED and suitable resistor onto an old bulb base, though. They have wide angle, high output LEDs in a variety of colors now, including red, orange, pink and blue. Be sure to check the actual specs before buying though, as terms like "wide angle" and "high output" don't really have much meaning it seems. Here's some that might do
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-PCs-1W-...071?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ad4929207
Maybe painting the bulbs is an option? Permanent markers used in the past for projected transparencies do work.
Or you can try some specific paint for bulbs, like this one: https://www.flints.co.uk/acatalog/Light_Bulb_Paint.html
Jesus
Or you can try some specific paint for bulbs, like this one: https://www.flints.co.uk/acatalog/Light_Bulb_Paint.html
Jesus
CJD
Yoda
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Funny, I was about to post a separate thread about these little bulbs, but might as well piggyback here...
Has anyone found a way to keep these things lit? The brass on the contact cuts into the soft lead on the tip of the bulb, and eventually breaks the connection. All the lights flicker on and off like Christmas lights while I drive. It's easy to get them lit again, by reaching back and twisting the bulb a bit to re-make contact, but there must be a better way??
Has anyone found a way to keep these things lit? The brass on the contact cuts into the soft lead on the tip of the bulb, and eventually breaks the connection. All the lights flicker on and off like Christmas lights while I drive. It's easy to get them lit again, by reaching back and twisting the bulb a bit to re-make contact, but there must be a better way??
Thanks for replies.After trying to solve a flicker I accidently broke the bulb to find a pile if dirt inside the socket,so I am changing them all.PO had used some sort of glue to keep the bulbs tight.Was hoping to put dash back today so may try to match up at Napa.Any Idea of wattage?Thanks Tom
Update.Google search took me to 2011 Randall post response and gave number 1446.Internet search shows this looks good.Napa had no listing,"not a good number".Other local store had listing and will have for me by 2pm today,@.79 cents each.Funny google search worksbetter than site advanced search.Thanks Tom
TR3driver
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Only thing I've done is to reshape the bulb holder just a bit, to move the bulb a little closer to that contact. You have to be a little bit careful to avoid bending it too much when installing into the fixture and apparently some DPO wasn't so careful.
But you can't touch the bulb without removing the holder from the fixture. If you are getting them to work by twisting the holder, I would be more suspicious of the grounds. Maybe there is paint inside the hole? Or no ground lead to the speedo/tach ?
Part of the tension is supplied by the fixture compressing the holder, so it's normal for the bulb to be a bit loose with the holder out.
The Lucas number is LLB987, rated 2.2 watts @ 12 volts
View attachment 29408
That's a good price, Tom. I paid over $10 for the pack of 10, and that was 10-15 years ago. But the irritating part was that it took over a week for them to come in.
Thanks Randall.It got my two stores mixed up and it was Napa who got the bulbs.When I picked Them up they said the 1446 was superceeded by 1449.They said they are 2.5 watts.Box says 1449m12v 2cp 10pos/poes/pzas.They measure about6.5 ohms,and seem a little brighter.I think the gen. light bulb measured around12ohms.Is this the only lower watt bulb?Thanks again.Tom
TR3driver
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The book says the generator light is the same bulb; AFAIK that is correct.
You can't really judge bulbs by their "cold" resistance, because it changes dramatically when the bulb lights. For example, 6.5 ohms would mean the bulb draws nearly 2 amps and dissipates over 20 watts! But when it heats up, the resistance goes up as well, so they are only about 2.2 watts. Also, the resistance (both cold and hot) goes up as the bulb ages.
That's interesting that you found a 1449 bulb rated at 12 volts. Usually, that bulb number is rated 2.8 watts at 14 volts.
Just as a side comment; the output of incandescent bulbs always goes down as they age. The rated numbers are a "nominal" value; generally the bulb will be brighter (and more power) than rated when it is new, and then drop below nominal before it actually burns out. The old Lucas bulbs seem to be particularly bad about this, I have seen original bulbs that still "worked" but the glass was completely black and the bulb put out almost no light at all. What happens is that the metal of the filament literally evaporates, making the filament thinner (hence higher resistance and less power); then plates against the inside of the bulb (further blocking light output).
You can't really judge bulbs by their "cold" resistance, because it changes dramatically when the bulb lights. For example, 6.5 ohms would mean the bulb draws nearly 2 amps and dissipates over 20 watts! But when it heats up, the resistance goes up as well, so they are only about 2.2 watts. Also, the resistance (both cold and hot) goes up as the bulb ages.
That's interesting that you found a 1449 bulb rated at 12 volts. Usually, that bulb number is rated 2.8 watts at 14 volts.
Just as a side comment; the output of incandescent bulbs always goes down as they age. The rated numbers are a "nominal" value; generally the bulb will be brighter (and more power) than rated when it is new, and then drop below nominal before it actually burns out. The old Lucas bulbs seem to be particularly bad about this, I have seen original bulbs that still "worked" but the glass was completely black and the bulb put out almost no light at all. What happens is that the metal of the filament literally evaporates, making the filament thinner (hence higher resistance and less power); then plates against the inside of the bulb (further blocking light output).
Thanks Randall.Yes most of the bulbs had the blackened glass you describe.Thankis again,Tom