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Painting an engine in place.

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vping

vping

Yoda
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I figured while i wait for more parts to come in, I'd paint the engine in place on the '74. Any recommendations or tips?
 
Tep here is a tip; anything you do not want over spray to get on wrap in aluminum foil.---Fwiw--Keoke--AZ- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cowboy.gif
 
Tape everything off that you don't want to get overspray on. Tape stuff that you figure there is no way that you could get overspray on, or you will. Murphy's law.
 
How bout cleaning it off? What should I use to make sure it is grease free?
 
Take off as many items as practical. Those plastic grocery bags work great for containing and masking items that are dangling. Spray on carb cleaner works great for degreasing. Just make sure everything is covered that you don't want damaged by the spray. Work from the top down and let gravity work for you. Use toothbrushes or a parts cleaner brush to loosen the thick stuff. Remember to cover your floor with several layers of newspaper which will absorb the mess. The carb cleaner evaporates fast and may require a once over again when you think it is completely clean just to be sure.
 
Carb cleaner will work. If you have a gallon of degreaser, some various scrub brushes and a garden hose will also do a good job. Put the degreaser into a spray bottle and go to town.
Once everything is clean, go over the entire engine with a good degreaser/dewaxer found at any automotive paint supplier. Let dry, and you should be ready to paint.
Prior to final wipe down, it wouldn't hurt to scuff the existing paint down with a Scotch Brite pad to give the new paint something to stick to.
 
Existing paint? What's that? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif Unless 1800's were painted brown, there ain't no paint left on her. If I remove the dizzy, should I pull it straight out & put it straight back in after paint? I should not turn the engine at all during it's time out right?

Tape the openings in the block or should I just stuff stuff in 'em?
 
Good idea. Also smart to mark the dizzy and the plate so you can put it back almost spot on.
 
Well so far the surprises have been that there wasn't an exhaust gasket. The Exhaust donuts were also missing. I went to remove the small oil line and bumped into the dizzy. It was loose so I have to reset it anyway. I just don't want it to be totally off.
 
Point number one dizzy wire hole to number one plug. That's close enough for it to start.
 
All which can come off should come off. Some old plugs with a bit of grease on the threads and half way wound in works to plug those holes. I keep a collection of plastic plugs around for this kind of stuff... every plastic cover/plug/protector I ever see. Pull the dizzy, disconnect any lines/wires. BAG everything you can, tape all with masking tape.

You may have an issue with rust removal from the block if I interpreted your "brown" comment. Mineral spirits and paint brushes work well to clean grease off. For rusty cast iron, maybe the heat resistant POR? I never tried it, so no opinion. I've used Ospho and wire brushes in past. Did this B engine "in-situ" but it was painted well before assembly the last time I had it out, so no corrosion issues.
 
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