Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
Kirk_Fisher
Jedi Hopeful
Offline
BOXoROCKS said:
Isn' that the only option these days? No more laquer?
-
Hi Guest!
You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Paint Job Costs
- Thread starter bcbennett
- Start date
Share this page
Isn' that the only option these days? No more laquer?
T
TRDejaVu
Guest
Guest
Offline
Same as martx-5, I am doing the "$40 paint job"; I will update my thread in the near future. I have spent all winter doing it and almost enjoyed every minute of it. I have done it one panel at a time; strip, rust removal then the paint process. I don't want a show car as I would be afraid to drive it. My background is mechanical, but I thought that I would try this anyway. With some care, very good results have been achieved by others. I had the advantage (?) of having a car that is structurally sound, but with awful looking paint, so I don't have much to lose.
Today was spent rubbing down the underside of the hood. The paint finish was bad, but it was fairly sound. I have stripped both sides of everything else that I have done this winter, but on this I nearly opted for just knocking the shine off and painting over it. Once it was removed, I found quite a few areas where rust was just starting. As others have said, that is where the professional costs will start to dramatically rise.
There is no point spending $2,000, let alone $8,000, only to see rust coming through within a couple of years.
I also echo the BC/CC comment by BoxoRocks, in that I personally prefer the enamel look for these cars.
Today was spent rubbing down the underside of the hood. The paint finish was bad, but it was fairly sound. I have stripped both sides of everything else that I have done this winter, but on this I nearly opted for just knocking the shine off and painting over it. Once it was removed, I found quite a few areas where rust was just starting. As others have said, that is where the professional costs will start to dramatically rise.
There is no point spending $2,000, let alone $8,000, only to see rust coming through within a couple of years.
I also echo the BC/CC comment by BoxoRocks, in that I personally prefer the enamel look for these cars.
danstr6
Senior Member
Offline
bcbennett,
Eight grand for a paint job is a lot of money. That's exactly why I decided to take matters into my own hands. Literally! I faced the same dilemma last fall when I decided to do a complete frame off of my '76 TR6. I contacted my local Macco shop to get a quote on priming and paint. I was shocked when they said between 2-3000 dollars. They wanted $600 plus just to spray the body tub with primer after sandblasting.
I'm the kind of guy that gets a little "PO'ed" when I think I'm being taken advantage of. I walked out of there more confused than ever. A couple of days later, I received a brochure from my local community college for their Adult Ed classes. They were offering an eight-week (evenings, twice weekly) auto body class that covers all of the basics up thru primer and a four-week class (evenings, twice weekly) covering the basics of auto painting.
We covered everything from welding repair techniques, dent repair, metal shrinking and shaping techniques, metal fabrication and patching to proper use of plastic body fillers along with the proper tools for the job.
The second class (basics of auto painting) was even more informative. We discussed the basics of painting techniques along with the proper tools such as HVLP paint guns. We learned the pros and cons of single coat vs. base coat/clear coat paint.
In the months to come, I will be setting up my own personal shop to finish the restoration I started quit some time ago. I feel confident that I have gained a tremendous knowledge of the basics that I was lacking before. I am by no means an expert. But I now have great resources I can call upon when I need them. I was planning on doing most of the work my self. Now I will be doing all of the work myself. Yes I will spend money on equipment and tools. But I was going to do that anyway. Of course, I will be in a prime position to do other restoration projects down the road. (My wife won’t even talk to me about it anymore. Oh well!)
The moral to this story is simple. If you have the time, patience and desire, there are opportunities all around to help you do this type of work yourself. You just need to do a little research.
I personally feel that when I am all done with my project, I will have a showroom quality paint job on my TR6. One that will be second to none. (I learned a few tricks in class) If you (or anyone else in this forum) would like any more detailed information, please feel free to contact me. I would be more than happy to share my limited, but expanding knowledge. Good luck to you.
Dan Adams
Urbandale, Iowa
dan@icomconsult.com
1976 Triumph TR6
https://www.luvmytr6.com
(Web site still under construction)
Eight grand for a paint job is a lot of money. That's exactly why I decided to take matters into my own hands. Literally! I faced the same dilemma last fall when I decided to do a complete frame off of my '76 TR6. I contacted my local Macco shop to get a quote on priming and paint. I was shocked when they said between 2-3000 dollars. They wanted $600 plus just to spray the body tub with primer after sandblasting.
I'm the kind of guy that gets a little "PO'ed" when I think I'm being taken advantage of. I walked out of there more confused than ever. A couple of days later, I received a brochure from my local community college for their Adult Ed classes. They were offering an eight-week (evenings, twice weekly) auto body class that covers all of the basics up thru primer and a four-week class (evenings, twice weekly) covering the basics of auto painting.
We covered everything from welding repair techniques, dent repair, metal shrinking and shaping techniques, metal fabrication and patching to proper use of plastic body fillers along with the proper tools for the job.
The second class (basics of auto painting) was even more informative. We discussed the basics of painting techniques along with the proper tools such as HVLP paint guns. We learned the pros and cons of single coat vs. base coat/clear coat paint.
In the months to come, I will be setting up my own personal shop to finish the restoration I started quit some time ago. I feel confident that I have gained a tremendous knowledge of the basics that I was lacking before. I am by no means an expert. But I now have great resources I can call upon when I need them. I was planning on doing most of the work my self. Now I will be doing all of the work myself. Yes I will spend money on equipment and tools. But I was going to do that anyway. Of course, I will be in a prime position to do other restoration projects down the road. (My wife won’t even talk to me about it anymore. Oh well!)
The moral to this story is simple. If you have the time, patience and desire, there are opportunities all around to help you do this type of work yourself. You just need to do a little research.
I personally feel that when I am all done with my project, I will have a showroom quality paint job on my TR6. One that will be second to none. (I learned a few tricks in class) If you (or anyone else in this forum) would like any more detailed information, please feel free to contact me. I would be more than happy to share my limited, but expanding knowledge. Good luck to you.
Dan Adams
Urbandale, Iowa
dan@icomconsult.com
1976 Triumph TR6
https://www.luvmytr6.com
(Web site still under construction)
Kirk_Fisher said:
Tower Paint in Oshkosh WI sells automotive lacquer and they can match either a vehicle paint code (all the way back to the 1930s they say) or a painted part that you send them. I bought half a dozen spray cans from them for touch-up purposes. I don't know if they have ordinary cans of the stuff but you could ask them: https://www.towerpaint.com/shopping.html
Actually I dimly recall talking to them on the phone about this and it was a question of prohibitive packaging and shipping costs for bulk paint. I believe they said that lacquer is officially a hazardous material for shipping purposes and there were some pretty stiff packaging requirements on paint cans, so that the cost of the shipping was a lot more than the cost of the paint. Or something -- I'm sure they'll be happy to answer any questions, they were very easy to deal with.
- Steve Richardson
St Louis MO
76 TR7 (original owner)
50 Dodge Wayfarer
One thing that continues to surprise me is what I find under the paint in areas that look perfectly rust free as I strip down to bare metal. There will be areas that is light rust under the red primer in what spreads in a spider web like pattern. So I would say there is alway body work to be found.
On the topic of paint, has anyone tried Trinity 1945 Inc.
https://www.paintforcars.com/
They sell Acrylic Lacquer and Enamels at pretty low prices.
On the topic of paint, has anyone tried Trinity 1945 Inc.
https://www.paintforcars.com/
They sell Acrylic Lacquer and Enamels at pretty low prices.
D
DougF
Guest
Guest
Offline
It doesn't take me long to pick apart the $25,000.00 white TR6 in ebay. It is a '74. I had a '74, other than being possessed, it was the worst year for pollution control. BL must have owned stock in a vaccuum line business. There are several other things about the '74 that I personally don't like, but won't take the time to list them. Maybe some other day. For $25,000, I'd rather get a driver Healey or for that money restore my Healey to concourse.
DNK
Great Pumpkin
Offline
These people also have everything,spray pens,cans clearcoat.
https://www.paintscratch.com/
https://www.paintscratch.com/
TR6oldtimer
Darth Vader
Offline
PeterK said:
Single stage urethane WITH clear-coat on exterior.... Beautiful!
Simon TR4a
Jedi Knight
Offline
I paid $5000 last spring for a complete bare-metal respray in base clear. But in my situation I stripped the car, took the body off the frame, scraped off the undercoating, took off the doors, fenders, bonnet and screen and brought everything in separately, then put it all back together afterwards.
Given the work involved I think $8,000 is fair for a decent job, more for a show quality job.
Given the work involved I think $8,000 is fair for a decent job, more for a show quality job.
TR6oldtimer
Darth Vader
Offline
I agree, good paint and body work was never inexpensive.
Recently I read an article in the LA Times where they quoted an insurance company that paid $62/hr for body and paint labor. At 62.50 that's $500/day. The shop's going rate was $80. This was for collision repair, not rust. Using the quote of $8,000 IMHO would equate to $7,000 for two weeks labor and $1,000 for materials.
Using your number of $5,000 for painting labor and materials, would leave just $3,000 (6 days @500.day) for disassembly, rust repair, and assembly. Seems reasonable to me.
Recently I read an article in the LA Times where they quoted an insurance company that paid $62/hr for body and paint labor. At 62.50 that's $500/day. The shop's going rate was $80. This was for collision repair, not rust. Using the quote of $8,000 IMHO would equate to $7,000 for two weeks labor and $1,000 for materials.
Using your number of $5,000 for painting labor and materials, would leave just $3,000 (6 days @500.day) for disassembly, rust repair, and assembly. Seems reasonable to me.
.jpg)
Kirk_Fisher
Jedi Hopeful
Offline
I just had a quote of $2500 to pull the wings and repair the rust in the rocker panels (cutting and bending new metal), pull out everything in the engine bay and paint it, and paint the underside of the hood. The rest of the car is really nice. The car sat for 6 years after a nice resto, but six years in a dank musty "garage" took its toll on the rock chips etc in the rocker panels.
Even if I had the money - which I don't - I couldn't get my head around an $8,000 paint job.
I'm not saying it isn't worth it, or that skilled craftsmen don't deserve what they charge, but that is more than most of the LBC I've bought added together.
I guess I'm happily "condemned" to drive quality cars.
I'm not saying it isn't worth it, or that skilled craftsmen don't deserve what they charge, but that is more than most of the LBC I've bought added together.
I guess I'm happily "condemned" to drive quality cars.
danstr6
Senior Member
Offline
Originally Posted By: PeterK
Single stage urethane, no clearcoat.
Single stage is OK. It's easier and less expensive to apply. One downside is it's difficult to do spot repair. You typically have to repaint an entire section. I also believe you get a deeper finish with base/clear when it's done right.
Single stage urethane, no clearcoat.
Single stage is OK. It's easier and less expensive to apply. One downside is it's difficult to do spot repair. You typically have to repaint an entire section. I also believe you get a deeper finish with base/clear when it's done right.
martx-5
Yoda
Offline
None of these TR's came with clear coat on them. I've seen TR's with the clear coat, and to my eye, they look out of place. Heck, even the early Miatas have no clear coat. I have to do alot of work on my red Miata to get it to look good, but when I see a red Miata that has been re-painted with base/clear, it just looks alien...it's a totally different look that I don't feel is appropriate. Maybe it's just too hard edged or something.
And, I would think that it would be easier to do a spot repair a single stage paint job. You don't have the clear coat layer to worry about.
And, I would think that it would be easier to do a spot repair a single stage paint job. You don't have the clear coat layer to worry about.
single stage is ok? easier and less expensive???
I think you may be thinking of the old acrylic enamels,centari/delstar. The did'nt blend worth a da*n. Usually halowed, most often had to repaint the whole panel.The uerathanes blend great,as easy as or better than the colored primer/varnish most shops use today. Urethanes are much tougher too. As for applying, definately more work also. They did not switch to base clear because it was MORE labor intensive.
Case in point, watch those slop jockeys on those butcher my ride cable shows. They blast the crap out of everything as they waltz around the car.I,ve seen guys spray weeds with more finesse. There isnt a painter worth his salt that would spray uretanes like that. As for shine,base/clears shine. Ureathanes have shine in abundance and with DEPTH....OK.. Now let me get my head gear on before you start throwing the tomatoes. The opinions expressed here are those of an old gezzer, and are worth exactly what you paid for them.
I think you may be thinking of the old acrylic enamels,centari/delstar. The did'nt blend worth a da*n. Usually halowed, most often had to repaint the whole panel.The uerathanes blend great,as easy as or better than the colored primer/varnish most shops use today. Urethanes are much tougher too. As for applying, definately more work also. They did not switch to base clear because it was MORE labor intensive.
Case in point, watch those slop jockeys on those butcher my ride cable shows. They blast the crap out of everything as they waltz around the car.I,ve seen guys spray weeds with more finesse. There isnt a painter worth his salt that would spray uretanes like that. As for shine,base/clears shine. Ureathanes have shine in abundance and with DEPTH....OK.. Now let me get my head gear on before you start throwing the tomatoes. The opinions expressed here are those of an old gezzer, and are worth exactly what you paid for them.