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The parts under the plug should be a washer, spring, small pin, steel ball, operating valve long pushrod. The spring fits into the cap plug and the pin fits into the bottom of the spring, the pin sits on top of the steel ball which sits on top of the long pushrod. This assembly rests on the operating lever attached to the shaft that moves when the solenoid lifts or the outside right hand lever is moved manually. The spring provides the return pressure. The operating rod should twist freely and return to rest when released.
 
Well I took the housing off and the lever and rod moves free and easy. It doesn't look like the gasket stuff oozed in and against the rod like I thought but something was putting friction on that rod because it's now okay. so what do you think is causing the tightness? Am I torquing it doun too tight or what? Maybe I just had it ever so slightly uneven?
 
Well you can replace inner cover and tighten bolts evenly and keep checking rod friction. Use the cross method to tighten bolts
 
Did you put solenoid lever too close to inner cover, it should be spaced out a little so it doesn't rub on inner cover
 
I GOT IT !!! After getting the housing completely off I can see the problem. It was the gasket goo. I got it too close to the rod and small "O" ring. That has to be it. So I'm going to clean everything back up,change the "O" ring,start again and be more careful putting it back together.
 
Todays update,LOL !! Got everything cleaned,set and ready. Gasket goo done very carefuly. All green lights and it's a go Huston! Started the bolts and when I let the jack doun(lowering the tranny) to get the bottom bolt...OIL started leaking out !! UHHG !!! So I took it all back apart, cleaned everything(goo and all) and now I have the trans on the mounts and the car jacked up from the psngr side to get out any leftover oil.
 
The valve plug with the spring and ball thats on top of the off side,underneath the ball is a long shaft( about3/4 inches) It's hollow on one end,then thin and strait for half the length ,then theres some thicker rings and back to thin on the short end. My question is; The long end with the hollow tip goes in first?
 
Thelong end with the hollow tip goes in first?-

-That is correct--Keoke
 
Wait ,I said it backwards. The short end is hollow.So is it the long or short end in first? Also,can I spray something doun in there to get it good and clean before I put the long thing back in?
 
TimK said:
The parts under the plug should be a washer, spring, small pin, steel ball, operating valve long pushrod. The spring fits into the cap plug and the pin fits into the bottom of the spring, the pin sits on top of the steel ball which sits on top of the long pushrod. This assembly rests on the operating lever attached to the shaft that moves when the solenoid lifts or the outside right hand lever is moved manually. The spring provides the return pressure. The operating rod should twist freely and return to rest when released.
Click to expand...
I got it all set just the way you say(same as my manual) but the spring isn't providing return pressure With or without the solonoid and lever hooked up)When the solonoid and plunger are out,I can push that manual lever past the hole for lining up/setting the lever and then (once past that hole)I can feel the spring giving pressure. Could the manual lever be set in the wrong position?
 
The Long end goes in first!!-- :hammer:

Could the manual lever be set in the wrong position? If it is you got trouble.

Rotate the shaft very carefully by habd and see if the operating valve moves up and down.--Keoke
 
Maybe I'm not doing the procedure corretly. The way I'm reading/understanding and doing it
1-before clamping the valve operating shaft,rotate the shaft ,line up the hole in operating lever with the hole in the unit and insert pin.

2-turn the OD on and see plunger go up.

3-leav it on(plunger up) while I tighten the clamping bolt.

4-remove pin from setting lever

5-operate several times to see if it works.(this is when I switch off the OD and it drops the plunger but doesn't push the lever back to the off position)

what am I doing wrong?
 
what am I doing wrong-------???????????????????????????????---

-----Keoke-- :laugh:

Night now see you tomorrow------ :laugh:
 
Good morning men,I think I got it nailed ! I was putting the pin through the lever into the corrosponding hole with the OD on/plunger up,then tightening the clamp bolt on the lever.
Now I tried doing that with the OD off/plunger doun. That seems to have done the trick. The plunger travles the full range of motion up and doun now. The setting lever on the offside is lined up with the hole when off and pops forward when turned on.
I can't believe how many times I read and re read that procedure in the manual and just kept on misunderstanding the way it is to be done.I swear it says to have the OD on(plunger up) when lining up the hole through the lever with the hole in the unit. Now even after getting it done, the manual still reads(to me) that I was doing it the right way on all those first attempts.
Thank you all for your kind patients and support,especially TimK and Keoke. I won't know for sure if it really works until I get back on the road for a test drive but I think it will and I'll keep you guys posted on the final verdict.
 
Donny, hope you got it right, but to be perfectly clear:
Loosen pinch clamp
Insert drill bit into hole with solenoid off.
Energize solenoid
Tighten pinch clamp with bottom of lever touching the flared end of the solenoid plunger.
Remove drill bit.
Turn off solenoid.
 
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