• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Overdrive

Share this page

thought as much. Thanx Tim, Like the bike. Had a Honda 550 four of about that vintage for awhile.
 
The thin wire you mentioned is an origination of "Mr Fine-spanner" and is used to keep the oil pump's wheel retracted so the actuating cam on the main shaft extension does not impact reassembly of the overdrive to the transmission---Keoke
 
Sure wish he was around when I was exhibiting my small vocabulary while working on that o.d. replacement!---Elrey
 
Good morning fello Healey Heads, I'm thinking of attempting the proceedure to clean out the acumulator and set the solonoid lever today. I got a new solonoid to put on and would like to get this done while the cars off the ground waiting for my other parts to come. The question is can I do this without having to start the car? Because right now there's no coolant at all in the car. I drained it all out and I'm waiting for the new elbow piece and gasket that covers the thermostat. Or do I have to wait til the car can be started and ran?
 
You do not need to start the engine. Make sure you install the new plunger with the new solenoid. I tried to use the old plunger and nearly burned out the solenoid because it was slightly shorter and did not reach the switch to switch to the low power holding circuit.
 
Thanks TimK, I'm gonna start draining out the fluid now. Is there any pitfalls I should look out for while doing this project?
 
I just used a rag, though any solvent would help.
 
One point to note is that after doing this work, it took several minutes of running in gear to get oil pressure back up to activate the OD
 
So I wont know for sure if it's really working till I can get it running again. But after I do all this and get it back together will I be able to just turn on the OD in 4th gear W/O the engine running(ignition on) and hear the click and see the plunger go up and hold in place?
 
Yes, but I added an inline 10 amp fuse to protect the solenoid.
 
Uh oh, that's why keoke suggested disconnecting driveshaft and loosening trans mounts so you can jack it up enough to clear. I did not have that problem
 
I'll give that a shot,thanks for your help. There was some kind of gasket goo between the housing and the unit. When I get this thing off I assume I need to scrape that clean before aplying some kind of fresh gasket goo. What kind of goo should I use? Oh boy I'm swimming in deep and uncharted waters now.
 
Mark the driveshaft so you put it back with the same way (bolts in same holes on both sides)
 
Hylomar is the best gasket goo I know, but any should work
I have to go offline for awhile.....
 
Thanks again for the help TimK. I'm loostening the mounts now and will keep you all posted on my slow progress. Wish me luck. I'll keep checking in to see if anyone else has any helpful input. I need all the help and encouragement I can get. :wink:
 
I assume I need to scrape that clean before aplying a fresh gasket.----- :yesnod:
. What kind of goo should I use owith the new gasket,--Hylomar
 
Check the condition of the rubber mounts and the steady bracket bushing. Mine were dissolved from all the leaking oil covering them
 
The mounts are good, I put new ones in about a year ago. The steady bracket bushings were replaced at the same time but are already showing cracks. That's caused by the leaking oil? Should I go ahead and replace those bushings, maybe with some new polyeurothane bushings instead of rubber?
 
Back
Top