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I ended up pulling vacumn on the slave side to get fluid up and over the hump. The crappy fitting on the bleeder seemed to introduce more air into the system than let fluid out. When I change out the engine and tranny in Bugsy. I will certainly attempt to disconnect the slave cylinder and let it hang rather than going through this one again.
Here is the rig I am going to try out tonight. I'll put a quart of brake fluid inside the sprayer tank so that it not only pressurizes the MC, but keeps it full no matter how much I waste getting the bubbles out of the lines. I'll let you know how it works later!
Put lots of paper towels arounc the MC. You know it will leak a bit from under the cap if the o ring is not good and around the top if the seal is not good.
My thought at this point was to just use air pressure on the MC and check its fill from time to time.
Can't do this till I get another cap though. Be a bit.
What is that "thing" between the wiper motor and the firewall?
I made one of those rigs 3 years ago and have not had a problem with it. I use it every spring to completely flush my brake and clutch systems. I added a thick rubber washer inside the plastic M/C cap and it seals with no leakage.
Well I think i have sucsesfully bled the clutch but I have bigger problems. It looks like the arm has moved as much as it can but the clutch still won't release! I am afraid that it has become somehow stuck together. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Warm up the engine in neutral.
shut off the engine.
push it out to the street.
once the street is VERY clear, put it in first-start the engine (still in first), hold the clutch down and drive up and down the street (with the clutch peddle fully down) until the clutch breaks free.
Drive normally.
I hate to suggest it but my 72 (snoopy) allways liked a quarter inch slug at the end of the rod. it had the extention when I bought it I took it out and after doing the fork and the slave I gave up and put it back
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