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Oil / Water Gauge Line and the 3 loops?

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memphis

memphis

Jedi Hopeful
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Hello All,

Hope that everyone had a nice Christmas.

Question... is there any significance to looping the water/oil gauge line close to the firewall?

My current setup does not have this. The PO simply shoved the excess cable into the underside of the dash.

Just curious on the 3 loops ....

Thanks,
Bob
 
Thanks Everyone for your quick replies!

I guess to do this right, I'll need to disconnect the temp sensor from the front of the engine so I can make the loops???

Comments?

Thanks,
Bob
 
I used an old 'coil' to make the loops. Don't forget to disconnect from motor if you haven't already.
 
Registered: 06/13/10
Posts: 94
Loc: Memphis, TN. Thanks Everyone for your quick replies!

I guess to do this right, I'll need to disconnect the temp sensor from the front of the engine so I can make the loops???


--------YEP You Sure will---Keoke- :laugh:
 
Hey Keoke, how come you always start your posts with some sort of attempt to quote someone? Do you know that you can just quote the poster you are responding to with the quote button?
 
Yep Legal bill I know about that thanks for telling me though I may have not known about it---Keoke-- :thumbsup:
 
Hi Guys!

When I remove the temp sensor, do I need to keep one finger in the hole to keep the anti-freeze in?

Any tricks to doing this?

As always, thank you! I enjoy reading all the replies!

Bob
 
memphis said:
Hi Guys!

When I remove the temp sensor, do I need to keep one finger in the hole to keep the anti-freeze in?

Any tricks to doing this?

As always, thank you! I enjoy reading all the replies!

Bob
Click to expand...

The antifreeze won't overflow. The biggest problem you'll have is finding an appropriate wrench that will work. You can either buy a crowfoot from Snap-on or use an old deep socket that you cut a slot in for the capillary tube to fit through. Sorry, don't remember the socket size off the top of my head.

Happy Healeydays,
 
Careful when looping the capillary tube. Should have 3 loops

Yep: and the loops should be immobilised with the little rubber thingy. It is not uncommon for the loops to short out on the overdrive switch contacts. The switch usually survives but the capillary tube is toast.--Fwiw--Keoke
 
Hi All & Happy New Year!

Ended up having to drain the radiator in order to remove the temp sensor without making too much of a mess...

This is the first time I drained the radiator fluid.
Shouldnt there be a copper washer on the drain plug?

Moss shows a drain valve, but I simply have a drain plug without a washer...

Before I refill, is a washer needed? Not sure why is wasnt leaking before?

Thanks,
Bob
 
The drain valve makes it easier to drain the coolant by just moving the lever. Can you post a picture of the plug? If it doesn't leak without a washer, you don't need a washer. Does it have a flat surface to accomodate a washer? You could also use teflon tape to wrap the threads of the plug if you're worried about leakage.
 
Looking closer at the plug, its a cut off bolt and nut welded together. Creative, but "cheap"! Looks like I need a drain valve.

Is MOSS the best one? I was reading some earlier posts of them leaking?

Any suggestions?

Thanks again,
Bob
 
memphis said:
Looking closer at the plug, its a cut off bolt and nut welded together. Creative, but "cheap"! Looks like I need a drain valve. :iagree:

Is MOSS the best one? I was reading some earlier posts of them leaking?

I think they all come out of the same bin most do not leak-- :nonod:

Any suggestions? Based on your description of the fix it may br that thr original drainvalve in the radiator may have gotten buggered up.

I would suggest that you purchase the standard Healey drain valve and then take the radiator to a repair shop and have them install it.-Fwiw-Keoke--- :driving:

Thanks again,
Bob
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Keoke,

When you say "standard healey drain plug", is this the MOSS one?

Bob
 
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