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General TR Oil Pan Questions
- Thread starter RJS
- Start date
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charlie74
Jedi Warrior
Online
These sump washers spread the load.
I don’t use cork gaskets as they deform too readily especially if you try the 18ftlb
There are 2 other gaskets a paper one and a thicker card type. A smear of aviation permatex on either side of the gasket and you should be fine. If the tin sump has been dressed flat esp at the bolt holes
I use an ali sump and you don’t have these issues.
This is what I did with my OEM oil pan. I bought a sheet of gasket material and got a pro to cut it for me:
I like them Hamish, I can imagine how well they will work with 3/32 paper gasket and some non-hardening permatex, that I will try it soon.
RJS, for me, the other places the pan can leak would be the rear main sectionfor the seal. However, I installed one of those aftermarket seals for I think 150.00.
Another place where it could be leaking is felt gaskets on each side of the rear cap, but that seems unlikely by the way the felt ends on the block.
I had an oil pan with a crack in the sheet- metal that leaked worse when the engine warmed up.
There is another place I am thinking about on this engine where it leaks might be on the front seal and the oil is moving towards the back of the engine as I move.
Plus there is the open crankcase that could spread oil as it breaths. However,I am not too sure about this because I am not sure when the vent is sucking or blowing air.
Steve
RJS, for me, the other places the pan can leak would be the rear main sectionfor the seal. However, I installed one of those aftermarket seals for I think 150.00.
Another place where it could be leaking is felt gaskets on each side of the rear cap, but that seems unlikely by the way the felt ends on the block.
I had an oil pan with a crack in the sheet- metal that leaked worse when the engine warmed up.
There is another place I am thinking about on this engine where it leaks might be on the front seal and the oil is moving towards the back of the engine as I move.
Plus there is the open crankcase that could spread oil as it breaths. However,I am not too sure about this because I am not sure when the vent is sucking or blowing air.
Steve
OP
RJS
Jedi Warrior
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Steve
Thanks. I feel pretty good about getting this all back together at this point. Your rear seal was an "engine out" job, correct? If so, not an option for me right now.
I am considering two more options before I reassemble everything
Bob
Thanks. I feel pretty good about getting this all back together at this point. Your rear seal was an "engine out" job, correct? If so, not an option for me right now.
I am considering two more options before I reassemble everything
- Mine is a TR4A with the PCV valve. Having owned this car 25 years, I am not convinced the PCV is the best engineered solution to block venting. I am considering removing the block plug behind the fuel pump and installing a catch tank (Racetorations sell them). I am not looking to open a debate on PCVs and engine breathing. My only question is, if I ever want to reverse this, can I easily replace that plug with the engine in the car (i.e. can I tap a new one into the block from the outside)?
- Front sealing block - is it worth considering pulling this and renewing the seals and the two cork "T" gaskets? Or, is this potentially opening a can of worms if I remove that?
Bob
On the sealing the bridge piece, I have done it before, but I also removed the bear plate on the front of the engine with the engine in the car, no fun because the engine mounts are on the bear plate.
Anyways this time I will not remove the bear plate and will see how the bridge is and go from there. Separating the small bridge piece from the bear plate gasket should not be too difficult if need be, but those are my famous last words some time. if removeal of the bridge piece become problematic, I should be able to seal the front of the bridge piece and bear plate with the same RTV used on the ends. The ends on the bridge piece are where a leak could easily be, so at some point the bridge piece probably needs to come out when chasing oil leaks.
I did not know a tr4a did not have a hole in the block for the vent tube. I thought the hole was plugged and could be removed to fit a vent tube.
Steve
Anyways this time I will not remove the bear plate and will see how the bridge is and go from there. Separating the small bridge piece from the bear plate gasket should not be too difficult if need be, but those are my famous last words some time. if removeal of the bridge piece become problematic, I should be able to seal the front of the bridge piece and bear plate with the same RTV used on the ends. The ends on the bridge piece are where a leak could easily be, so at some point the bridge piece probably needs to come out when chasing oil leaks.
I did not know a tr4a did not have a hole in the block for the vent tube. I thought the hole was plugged and could be removed to fit a vent tube.
Steve
charleyf
Luke Skywalker
Offline
The TR4A engine that I am using in my TR4 does have the vent tube hole. Which I removed the plug and am using it with the vent tube. So at least some did have the hole ( plugged) in the block.
Charley