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oil leaks

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Tinster

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Just a general question.

Is it possible to differentiate between an engine
oil leak and a tranny oil leak.

I was not able to remove the flywheel when Dave and
I installed the new clutch; so no replacement of the
rear oil seal on the engine.

I have stopped all the original DPO Pedro leaks except
this one leak beneath the bell housing/engine interface.

thanks,

dale
 
Dale,
If it's engine oil, it's from the engine and if it's brake fluid, it's from the clutch and if it's gear oil, it's from the tranny. They all have different consistencies and they all smell different. It's probably not brake fluid as you'd be refilling the clutch m/c all the time.

It's most likely the oil from the rear of the engine as there's more potential leak points there. Here's the rear of my engine with 3 spots pointed out. A 4th spot is where the oil pan bolts to that alloy seal block. Even after replacing/repairing all of these areas, I still get a random drip that hangs on the junction of the engine and the bell housing.

RearSealAssembly.jpg
 
Dale;

As Bob says, the oils are very different in consistency.
Gear oil is very thick, while engine oil is much thinner.
If it is not leaking too much, I would likely put a pan under it to keep the floor clean, and do this job at a later date.
JMHO

Dave :savewave:
 
Thanks Bob and Dave-

I'm fairly sure it is the green arrowed seal because
I had a new seal but could not get the flywheel off.

I am just a tad worried it might be tranny oil and
I'll mess up the tranny if it runs dry of oil.
I do not yet know how to check opil level in the tranny.

PS: Both master cylinders hold a constant level of
oil. The oil drip occurs at the bottom of the bell
housing interface with the block. It then dribbles
along the contour of the bell housing and falls onto
the garage floor at the lowest point.

thanks,

dale
 
Dale....that red arrow is pointing to a copper washer that a lot of folks don't realize is an oil stopper. I didn't when I took everything apart and then there was a post about its importance in leaking oil from that bolt. Luckily I had bagged that washer along with the other bolts.

As to checking the tranny fluid level......there is no easy way to do it. You have to remove the side filler plug and stick your finger in to see if the fluid level is even with the hole.

TrannyFill.jpg
 
Dale, I would definitely suggest you learn to check the gearbox oil. It's not all that difficult, although it does require having the car up on jackstands and laying underneath with crud falling in your face. I make it part of a yearly ritual, that includes inspection and greasing all the zerks. As Bob says, you remove the plug and stick your little finger in the hole. If it comes out wet with oil, there's enough. I would also suggest :

1) Get an 8-point, 7/16 socket to turn the original plug. Available at any quality tool store (but not usually found in sets).

2) Once you get the original plug out, replace it with a hex-socket pipe plug. Available at most plumbing supply places, or MMC Of course you'll need a hex key to go with it. The hex plugs are hardened and much less apt to round than the soft square plugs.

3) Regardless of which type of plug you opt for, smear the threads with 'Teflon' pipe joint compound (aka pipe dope). It will both help seal the threads (so less torque needed on the plug), and keep them from being so hard to remove next time. Teflon "tape" should never be used on a car, IMO.
 
Randall,
I just used the teflon tape on my temp sensor as well as the output pipe off the water pump on the GT6. The original "washers" were shot and the tape seemed logical. Do you have experience with the tape failing?
Mike
 
Andrew Mace said:
Bob, isn't that arrow pointing to the wrong spot? I thought the filler plug was the one you can see almost directly below the arrowhead?
Click to expand...

oops....in my haste to orient the tranny the right way, I pointed to the wrong thing..... let's try it this way! Thanks Andy

TrannyFill.jpg
 
Now I've got this all confused. The first picture i posted was of the rear of my engine showing the rear seal and copper washer (red arrow). Andy is referencing the second picture of the tranny fill plug.

Then I posted a picture showing the tranny fill plug but I had the arrow pointed to the wrong thing as Andy spotted. So I corrected it in the next picture but I saved the picture with same name and it replaced the previous picture. Confused? Well....Andy's reference really doesn't make sense now. Sorry Andy..... you were right but now I've messed up the pictures.
 
19_again said:
Do you have experience with the tape failing?
Click to expand...
Not a matter of it failing; the problem is that unless you are very careful with application (and don't cover all the threads), it is likely to shed 'strings' of material inside, where they can break loose and clog critical passages. It's not a common occurence, but it can happen. In fact, we finally figured out that was the problem with the heater on my Buick Roadmaster, it was clogged with strings of teflon & silicone. IMO using paste instead of tape is cheap insurance against such problems.
https://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/52-304...ste-606609.aspx
 
TR6BILL said:
They are supposed to leak.
Click to expand...

<span style="color: #660000">Gosh Bill, those are DPO Pedro's exact words.

Maybe this photo indicates the tranny oil fill hole? I have
noticed my clutch pedal is getting more difficult to push down.
Maybe the oil level in the tranny is low and the fork shaft is dry?

:jester:

If the arrow indicates the fill hole; the tranny does not have
much oil to begin with.

d</span>

trannyFill.jpg
 
Tinster said:
Maybe this photo indicates the tranny oil fill hole?
Click to expand...
Yup, zat's it.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]If the arrow indicates the fill hole; the tranny does not have
much oil to begin with. [/QUOTE]WE HAVE A WINNER! Someone give that man a seegar.
grin.gif

Less than a quart ...
 
PS, I've no idea if this is practical on a TR6. However, TR2 through early TR3A had a dipstick in the top of the gearbox, and a plug through the transmission tunnel to access the dipstick. When I put a TR6 gearbox in my early TR3A, I rebuild the original top cover with the TR6 components, so I could use it with the TR6 gearbox and keep the dipstick.
 
That's the one -- at the end of the yellow arrow.
You are also correct in that it doesn't have a lot of oil in it -- less than a quart, they say...
The oil level inside the gearbox will have no effect on your clutch. The clutch and all of it's operating mechanisms live outside of the gearbox and it's oil. Some clutch operating shafts have a grease fitting at each end, to lube the shaft where it rotates. That is the only lubrication possible (or desirable) on the clutch. If that is a picture of your gearbox, it looks like you do have the zerk on the operating shaft.
 
Andrew Mace said:
OK. So as NOT to confuse future archive searchers, I've deleted my post...and I apologize for not noting to which arrow/picture I was referring! :smile:
Click to expand...

Andy.....you were referring to the picture I posted showing the tranny fill hole only I had the arrow pointing to the wrong thing. So I corrected the picture with a new picture. So thanks for pointing that error out or poor Dale might be trying to unbolt the wrong thing!

Randall was referring to an earlier picture showing potential leak area at the rear of a TR6 engine.

Everybody was right but me!

Dale.... that is the fill plug that you're pointing at. Get the car up off the ground and level, remove the plug, stick in your finger and see if your finger comes out with gear oil on it. If it doesn't add oil..........or better yet, drain your old gear oil and add all new fresh oil. The drain plug is on the tranny bottom.
 
BobbyD- I will probably try to rent a
full car lift for a day from a buddy who owns
a tire & muffler shop.

That way I can change the diffy oil, the tranny oil,
grease a bunch of zerks, check and tighten down
my new suspension front and back and get the TR6
ready for the cross island Enduro with Gardener.

I'll put a catch pan under the bell housing and
post a photo of what drips out overnight.

Mr. Miracle arrives tomorrow!! Cool.

thanks

d
 
I think the zerk(s)for the operating shaft disappeared over time and by the TR6 they were gone. Greasing the operating shaft doesn't require more than a dab, so it is a case of more is NOT better. Shortly after I started driving my last TR3, I noticed the clutch slipping. Clutch adjustment didn't solve the problem so I removed the gearbox to check the clutch plate. Some previous owner over time had religiously and zealously greased the operating shaft. There must have been a pound or more of grease in the bell housing and on the clutch.
 
Dave, that photo was of my spare tranny.

The tranny in my TR6 is a TR4A tranny with
TR4A fork, fork shaft and grease zerks.
And of course, a reinforced taper pin,
thru bolted.

regards,

d
clutchbarmods.jpg
 
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