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oil leaks

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Aloha Dale,

That set up should relieve you of any worry about the clutch fork not turning with the operating shaft. I don't know when the zerks were phased out, perhaps before the TR4. If your gearbox doesn't have them I wouldn't be concerned. I suspect that a blast of WD40 or a spray lube on the bell housing were the shaft enters the case will provide any needed lubrication.
 
BobbyD said:
Hey Dale..... and the red straw is for????????? :cheers:
Click to expand...

The red wire is simply to indicate where I drilled a 1/8" diameter
access hole. The access hole can be used to push out a sheared
off taper pin.

d
 
Cuz, the fork shaft does not ride in oil. It is in essence dry.. Uses an oilite type bearing originally from the factory and the fork shaft is dry in it. Good modification is to install two bushings on each side of the case, Lube the fork shaft with moly grease when putting it into the case.

Now when the tranny is run low, and it only takes a pint or so loss, for any length of time the countershaft(or layshaft as the Brits are wont to call it) bushing/bearing suffer first. Then the other bearings(as such as early cases are mostly bushed, rather than bearing) suffer accelerated wear.

If you find the oil leaking from the bellhousing is gearoil from the trans, it is not that hard to reseal the front of the trans. The seal behind the cover plate is the same as on small block chevy three and four speeds from the late 50's through the mid 80's. So you can save some shipping charges there. And the layshaft plate can be resealed with Permatex The Right Stuf.
 
MGTF1250Dave said:
Greasing the operating shaft doesn't require more than a dab, so it is a case of more is NOT better.
Click to expand...
I agree entirely, but I feel that dab does do a lot to reduce wear. Every TR6 (and Stag) gearbox I've worked on has had severe wear in that area; so I've started adding grease zerks and using the wide brass bushings from the slave side of a TR3. The Stag has no room for the zerks on the end of the shaft (it's amazingly tight under there); so I drilled and tapped the housing and bushing for them instead. Turns out to also be much easier than drilling and tapping the shaft, so I'm going to continue doing it that way.

One stroke of the grease gun every 20,000 miles should be plenty.
 
Ron and Randall-

I DID replace the oil seal on the front of the tranny
when David and I installed the new clutch assembly.

We were NOT able to remove the flywheel so my very rookie
guess is the rear engine seal behind the flywheel.

Here is a photo of my oil leak. The car was driven a little
over one hour last night. I put an oven pan and paper towel
under the bell housing. Here is a photo 14 hours after turned
off the engine.

My last oil change was about 200 miles ago. The fluid on
the paper towel is thicker than clutch oil. I don't remember
what the gear oil felt like to the touch but it has 2000
miles use on it. The oil feels like regular engine oil to me.

All comments welcome!

Here is the photo of 14 hours of oil leak:

oil-leak.jpg
 
Okay, find some purple oil and install it in the engine. That should help you isolate the source..
 
They also sell fluorescent dye for the same purpose.
https://www.autobarn.net/fluorleakdet1.html?site=google_base

Add 1/2 oz or so to your fluid of choice, then see if the results of the leak glow under a black light.

Of course, you'll need the black light , which can be kind of expensive. But I found a small fluorescent black light bulb at Home Depot for under $10, that fit a cheap desk lamp from the thrift store for $1.

I'd stay away from the incandescent black lights, though, as they don't actually emit very much ultraviolet light, making it harder to see the dye.
 
Does your wife know you are usig the broiler pan to catch oil drips? :lol:
 
Dale...what'cha gonna do when you have nothing else left on the car to worry about?

But, this is a great thread with some super info/photos!
 
Tony, This is one I'm not actually worried about.

DPO Pedro's car leaked so badly, it covered the floor every
night. I was able to correct all but one leak.
I am satisfied with that.

d
 
Gotta tell you I've had the experience of which Randall speaks.

I put a little teflon tape on a fitting going to a carb on my '69 truck
(since gone to the smasher) and some of the tape sloughed off and clogged
my carbs orrifices. Big mistake.
 
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