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My understanding as I fought this is that if disconnecting the canister stops it, you have a clogged up canister and need to replace it. I still run mine disconnected, so someone else may know more.
I took my canister completely apart when I restored my car... cleaned the filter and spread out the charcoal on a piece of cardboard to air out for a couple of days... I guess it didn't help.
Airing out won't re-activate the charcoal; but that should not be the issue with the crankcase vent. The canister just has to allow air through, which you should be able to achieve by cleaning out any fine dirt and carbon particles, plus cleaning the screen in the bottom and replacing the cotton filter. (Worth noting perhaps, that aquarium charcoal won't actually work either.) Also double-check that the anti-runon valve on the bottom (if you have one) is staying open and flows freely.
If you have done that and are still having problems with oil blowing out where it shouldn't (like the dipstick), then most likely you have more blow-by than the stock vent system was designed to handle (which is very easy to do). The "right" solution of course is to replace the rings, bore the cylinders, etc. However, I've had good luck implementing something similar to what I think Ken showed, ie just install a suitable length of open line from the rocker cover and let it hang down under the engine, like the road draft tube used on earlier TRs. ISTR we used 1/2" heater hose on a friend's TR6 and it totally solved the problem. I cut an angle on the end of the hose, but I doubt it made any difference. Heater hose is not the best choice (the oil fumes will eventually degrade the rubber liner), but it was what I had handy.
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