Oil From Clutch Housing

[Patrick67BJ8]

What about the hose for the brake servo on a BJ8?
Patrick

Hi Patrick,
I'm not following you. ?

I think I was blinded by the "polish" of the engine compartment shown(that's a compliment to the owner of the car/picture that's posted). I mistook the PCV hose connection for the brake servo connection. I'm not sure I would experiment with different PCV's and instead just go with the one Norm Nock recommends. He usually had everything all sorted out so you know it works correctly. A lean rear carb would be a big concern of mine. I have rebuilt two engines that had failed #6 pistons. They didn't have PCV's, but maybe they were "lean"??
Patrick

 

[bighealeysource]

I've been gone for a week or so and just read this thread of posts. Some
interesting stuff being discussed but I have a very STUPID question, a
1958 BN6 would not have a PCV valve as originally fitted, correct ? I do have
a brake booster added by the previous owner but all I have out of the T fitting
is the rubber hoses going their particular direction.
Thanks,
Mike

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

I've been gone for a week or so and just read this thread of posts. Some
interesting stuff being discussed but I have a very STUPID question, a
1958 BN6 would not have a PCV valve as originally fitted, correct ? I do have
a brake booster added by the previous owner but all I have out of the T fitting
is the rubber hoses going their particular direction.
Thanks,
Mike

There were no PCV's on any Healeys (best to my knowledge) and the ones being fitted today are aftermarket items created by homeowners and/or shops/suppliers. I would use caution on fitting any pcv's unless issues such as the rear carb being too lean is addressed.
Maybe David Nock will chime in on this???
Patrick

 

[Keoke]

What about the hose for the brake servo on a BJ8?
Patrick

Hi Patrick,
I'm not following you. ?

I think I was blinded by the "polish" of the engine compartment shown(that's a compliment to the owner of the car/picture that's posted). I mistook the PCV hose connection for the brake servo connection.
I'm not sure I would experiment with different PCV's and instead just go with the one Norm Nock recommends. He usually had everything all sorted out so you know it works correctly. ___Keoke :thumbsup:


A lean rear carb would be a big concern of mine. I have rebuilt two engines that had failed #6 pistons. They didn't have PCV's, but maybe they were "lean"??
Patrick

 

[chicken]

Patrick

Which PCV valve does Norman Nock recommend ?
Does the brake servo not connect to the inlet manifold where the picture above shows the PCV connected ??

Now i'm confused

Rob

 

[Keoke]

Patrick

Which PCV valve does Norman Nock recommend ?
I think from memory it was the AC Delco "CV679C"
Does the brake servo not connect to the inlet manifold where the picture above shows the PCV connected ??

Now i'm confused


Chicken:
Go back and look at the picture. You see that big nut on the intake manifold just ahead of the PCV line connection. This is another Vacuum take off which can be used to hook up the brake booster. However, I do not know why it is not used in this application--Fwiw--Keoke

Rob

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Patrick

Which PCV valve does Norman Nock recommend ?
Does the brake servo not connect to the inlet manifold where the picture above shows the PCV connected ??

Now i'm confused

Rob

I don't know which PCV Norman recommends but I do believe they have a kit which if they do, is the best way to go. I would assume that David Nock would be the best to answer their PCV installtion questions and instructions since I haven't installed one yet(car is in 1 m illion pieces). The brake servo would still connect to the intake manifold to work like in the picture.
Patrick

 

[HealeyBN7]

The PCV valve that I received last month from BCS - David Nock was a NOVO part number 2020. It cross referenced to

FV112 - FRAM
CV697C - AC Delco
PV679 - Purolator
66014 - Wix
PV03 - Champion
2-9281 - NAPA

and many many others found here.

https://www.framcatalog.com/PartDetailWindow.aspx?b=F&pn=FV112

The NAPA replacement that I picked up last weekend is exactly like the item shipped from David Nock.

I originally thought it could have been defective as it didn't seem to seal, but now I am wondering if part of the issue is how it is installed. If you cross reference the PCV part to the engines they are installed in, they are all vertical (pointing up with one end stuck in the valve cover). As you can see in the photo of Lin's beautiful engine, the PCV is laying down, as is mine. I wonder if the seal hangs up letting in too much unmetered air. It is acting as if it is just an open bypass.

Sure would like to hear the experts chime in on this as I don't intend to risk engine damage for the sake of a few drips.

Dean

 

[Keoke]

Well here is my 2c's worth. No it is not a function of the physical position of the valve. I believe that this valve will appear to malfunction in all engines that produce low vacuum. I my case it is due to the cam. I produce at speed only 3 or 4 pounds of vacuum and that is insufficient to operate the valve.Lest some think my engine is worn no it is not believe me. --Fwiw--Keoke

 

[HealeyBN7]

Well here is my 2c's worth. No it is not a function of the physical position of the valve. I believe that this valve will appear to malfunction in all engines that produce low vacuum. I my case it is due to the cam. I produce at speed only 3 or 4 pounds of vacuum and that is insufficient to operate the valve.Lest some think my engine is worn no it is not believe me. --Fwiw--Keoke

Interesting. I do have a hot cam in mine as well... Time for me to play with the vacuum gauge to see if I have similar readings. A PCV may not be a good solution for us. Of course I am still concerned that it is venting the crank case into only the rear two cylinders. I know this could be ugly, but perhaps an improved approach would be to port each twin intake and install a balance pipe of some sort hidden under the manifold? Now guessing... Dean

 

[Bob_Spidell]

A PCV valve should be mostly closed at higher vacuum; i.e. at idle when the throttles are closed. The valve should be mostly open at low vacuum; i.e. WOT. At WOT, the amount of air the PCV allows into the manifold is a relatively smaller amount compared to what's coming through the carbs. A couple inches of vacuum at (near) WOT sounds about right; typically, you get about one inch of vacuum from carburettor and manifold restrictions alone. All carburettors require some 'depression' (vacuum) over the jet(s) to operate.

 

[Keoke]

BOB:
However, in some applications and it always seems to involve engines with a modified cam. The PCV operates in these engines like it is in a restriced mode. Subsequently, failing to produce the desired Pressure inversion.This in turn can cause excesive oil to be pumped out of the engine at speed.---Keoke

 

[Bob_Spidell]

I don't dispute it, but I'm scratching my head trying to figure out how that could happen. It seems like you'd need a greater pressure in the intake manifold than in the sump, which doesn't seem possible. Maybe, with a radical cam there just isn't sufficient vacuum to do much good, and pressure builds in the sump causing oil to be forced out at the seams (just like when I pinched the hose from my PCV to the intake manifold). In that case you might be better off with just the "road draft" tube going into the air filter.

 

[Keoke]

I agree again, Similarly,I have never been able to resolve the issue either. On the other hand,since I did not need the Item I chose to forget it. It kind of bugs me though every once in a while--Keoke- :frown:

 

[chicken]

Johnny

I now think the oil maybe coming from the gearbox, checked the levels yesterday and its down on the dipstick, i guess the main seal wasn't installed properly ?
Whats the quickest way to drop the gearbox out ?

Rob

 

[HealeyBN7]

A PCV may not be a good solution for us. Of course I am still concerned that it is venting the crank case into only the rear two cylinders. Dean

Quick update. I removed the PCV valve, plugged the manifold and rerouted the breather hose back to the carb and all is well. Actually very well. Cars starts on the first rotation again, performance is back to 100% and no more popping and backfiring. I just can't understand how this "PCV modification" could work for any of our cars??

As a word of caution, until the lean cylinder questions are fully sorted, I would be very leery of installing this PCV and heading off on a long trip. Odds are that the dive back would be on a flatbed.

Dean

 

[TimK]

Removing the trans. requires removing the seats and trans tunnel, unbolting the bell housing from the engine plate, removing the starter, remove the clutch lever clevis pin, disconnecting the rear transmission mounts and the steady bracket at the back of the trans. disconnect the driveshaft at the transmission. I left the gearshift connected.

Jack up the back of the engine using a block of wood under the oil pan on the jack pad just enough to support the engine without the trans (about 1/2" or so). Use a rolling floor jack to support the trans. Pull back on the trans. and wrestle it sideways onto the floor boards. Remove through the passenger side door. It weighs about 130 lbs., but can be lifted by two people. I built a stool like device to provide a broader, more stable base than the jack pad. Remember the 2 dowel bolts (the ones with the groove under the bolt head) go back in the 11:00 and 5:00 o'clock positions.

 

[chicken]

Tim

Well i removed the gearbox yesterday and found my oil leak, it's the front oil seal (seeping out quite a lot), i also noticed that the drive gear had a bit of up and down movement as well, is this normal or due to the seal ?

What's the best way to remove the seal and replace ?

Bit annoyed as the gearbox was proffesionally rebuilt so this shouldn't have happened (although it sat about for 2-3 years before use to the seal may have dried out ?)

Rob

 

[Michael Oritt]

is this normal or due to the seal
------------------------------------

It is only normal for a worn transmission... If the housing itself is worn then no seal will work and eventually you will have internal damage due to misalignment of the input shaft.

 

[Keoke]

Tim

Well i removed the gearbox yesterday and found my oil leak, it's the front oil seal (seeping out quite a lot), i also noticed that the drive gear had a bit of up and down movement as well, is this normal

Yes Rob, that is normal.


or due to the seal ?

What's the best way to remove the seal and replace ?

Simply remove the 8 bolts securing the small housing inside the bell housing and Prise the seal out. Cover the input shaft threads with tape to protect the new seal and fill the new seal's lip with a suitable grease and press back in.Use an appropriate sealer on the 8 attaching bolt threads and reinstall.

Bit annoyed as the gearbox was proffesionally rebuilt so this shouldn't have happened (although it sat about for 2-3 years before use to the seal may have dried out

Yep it sure did---Keoke-- ?)

Rob