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TR2/3/3A OD Transmission vs 5 speeed conversion

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Scotsman

Scotsman

Jedi Hopeful
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Need to put a new transmission in my 59 TR3A and am considering a HVDA 5 speed conversion, or a rebuilt A Type overdrive. With regards to the effect on resale value what would each of these do, and by approx how much compared to a rebuilt OEM fully syncro TR4 transmission. Also what has been the trend over the past few years on the effect of these two. My car is a driver with no modifications.
 
I have the HVDA conversion in my tr3. I also have overdrive in my tr 250. I would rebuild a overdrive if it was with the car. I do like the 5-speed but the OD is pretty cool. I personally don't care about resale value. I have the old trans that will go with the TR3 if it is ever sold. As of today the TR3 and the TR250 will never be sold.
 
IMO, a working A type will bump the resale value up by at least $1-2k while the HVDA conversion won't do much if at all. But it will also cost a sizeable percentage of that (over the HVDA) to install especially if you pay someone else to rebuild it. Not quite a push, but close enough.

I love my A-type, no way would I trade. Just flipping the switch for 2nd OD brings a smile to my face. But like the car itself, that 50+ year old British technology is showing it's age. No doubt the HVDA conversion is more practical (but then, so is a Miata).
 
I'm not much for Miatas. But newer technology in the gearbox brings a smile to my face when I roar down an interstate on-ramp, bring the engine revs up in fourth and then over and up to 5th gear for crusing at lower revs. Just when you thought that's all she's got, there's more. And there's plenty of torque from the TR engine in the all gears.

I saved all the original parts and gearbox for purists should I decide to sell someday.

So my opinion, never having driven a TR with OD, is that I am very satisfied with the HDVA conversion. (and it was easy)
 
I have the Toyota box in my TR3. My car came with the four speed, and I wanted an overdrive ratio. There were several options. The HVDA conversion, the TR OD, or the Ford Sierra trans conversion. The Sierra was very expensive (over three thou), so that was out. I almost sprung for the TR OD, but since my car has multiple mods, trying to keep things original didn't matter, so I opted for the less expensive Supra conversion. No regrets.

I also own a Miata... :glee:
 
PeterK said:
So my opinion, never having driven a TR with OD, is that I am very satisfied with the HDVA conversion.
Click to expand...

The details are a bit different (the Healey only had a 3 speed main box), but this author said it better than I can

LaycockODkicklikeamuleBW.jpg~original


On a TR, the same thing applies when you are working your way up a twisty mountain road. 2nd OD is the perfect gear when 2nd is too low and 3rd is too high. And of course you have 7 speeds forward.
 
I would echo above that if you have an OD transmission now, I would rebuild it, but otherwise I would put in the conversion. Keep the original to sell with the car, the guy that bought my last one did not change it back. I also have had OD units that were nothing but problems. Somebody raced that car and it was HARD on the OD for some reason.
In any case, you need OD or 5th gear, it is so nice to get that ratio.

Jerry
 
The only thing missing in the above discussion is whether the OD tranny has syncro in first gear. I am guessing from your choices that you do not. To me that lowers the value of the OD tranny a lot.
Charley
 
charleyf said:
The only thing missing in the above discussion is whether the OD tranny has syncro in first gear. I am guessing from your choices that you do not. To me that lowers the value of the OD tranny a lot.
Click to expand...
"rebuilt OEM fully syncro TR4 transmission" seems clear enough to me ??

I've driven both ways; currently I've got synchro in 1st but the original OD tranny in my previous TR3A did not and I covered well over 100,000 miles with it. To me, it honestly doesn't make all that much difference. The ole TRactor motor has gobs of torque, so doing a rolling stop in 2nd gear isn't a problem unless you're trying to "lay rubber" or race someone to the next stop sign. And double-clutching is a skill worth learning anyway.

Note that there are some small changes required to put a 4-synchro box into a TR3A, especially if it is before TS50001. The 4-synchro box is about 3/8" longer than the 3-synchro; I had to bend up the crossmember as well as elongating the holes. And cars before TS50001 won't have the bulge in the transmission tunnel to clear the starter bulge in the gearbox. You'll also need the longer speedo cable, wiring and so on.
 
I put in a rebuilt od in and love the way I can shift in and out of od 2,3and 4 with just a flick of my finger,both hands still on the wheel.
Tom
 
Richard----if you decide to go with the conversion, I would suggest you also contact Bill Close, who is a member/sponsor on this forum. he developed a similar kit that he markets under the name eagle gate (www.eaglegatellc.com). he is very knowledgeable and provides excellent service and support. he may be able to help source the Toyota transmission if you do not have one. he also has had thorough coverage in articles in the hemmings classic & exotic cars magazine in the past couple of years. I and a few other triumph owners in my area have used his product and have been very satisfied. good luck, mac
 
Although I have never driven a TR3 with a 5 speed, I have driven a TR6 and an MG Midget with a 5 speed conversion, as well as lots of British sports cars with stock four speeds, and 4 speeds with o/d, as well as my old Austin Healey Hundred, that had the early 3 speed with overdrive.

I love the Laycock overdrive, it adds immensely to the driving experience (both in kicking it in and out of O/D and listening to the exhaust note change, and the more relaxed cruising) and to me is one of the things that make old British sports cars unique and cool.

A five speed is probably going to be more reliable and efficient, but I don't think reliability and efficiency is what driving an old British Sports car is all about.

Everybody has their level of mods and upgrades they want to go to, from as it left the factory, to its OK as long is it looks like it left the factory to Pertronix and internal engine mods or ok, or period mods, to fitting a five speed, or fuel injection, to fitting a Honda 4 or BMW 6, or Rover/Buick v-8 or small block ford.

To each his own, and I don't mean that sarcastically or condescendingly, but I do like the O/D, try it you'll like it.
 
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I have a TR-3B with synchro on all gears and OD. I pop it into OD at 50 mph and it is wonderful. In my opinion, the OD is the way to go. The ratios on the original tranny, plus OD are perfect.

Paul
 
Richard,
There is a friend of mine in FL (Brad) that rebuilds O/D trans. He has built both the A type and the J type for me. Both are working well. I think you may have talked to him. If not, PM me and I can hook you up.

Marv
 
Ok, this post got a lot of interest, and opinions. ...
- Will a tr6 a-type od "bolt in" to a tr3a with no mods.
- I have been told that a J-type od works with a fabricated motor mount that bolts on therefore not requiring any modifications to the frame. ......?
 
You can make the J type trans mount work pretty easy, just redrill mounting holes. I like the J type but you won't get as any gear options as the A type.

Marv
 
Scotsman said:
Ok, this post got a lot of interest, and opinions. ...
- Will a tr6 a-type od "bolt in" to a tr3a with no mods.
Click to expand...

The TR6 setup is about 3/4" longer, so the rear cross member has to be slotted to install the rear gearbox mount. You'll also potentially change out the studs at the rear of the engine to a little longer version to accomodate a thicker flanged gearbox. Other than that, its pretty much drop in ready.
 
One source told me j type can be configured to give od in 2nd and that a j-tupe is preferable as parts are much more readily available. Also told that the j-type does not engage as fast. Any comments.....
 
TR4nut said:
The TR6 setup is about 3/4" longer,
Click to expand...
That's assuming you have a TR6 gearbox, as opposed to adding a TR6 A-type OD to a TR3 gearbox (and I believe the difference is closer to 3/8" than 3/4"). You'll also have to make some adaptation to the clutch slave mount, as the flange is thicker on the TR6 transmission. Oh yeah, might need longer bolts as well as the studs. I couldn't find studs that fit, so wound up making my own. Then they were too long and I had to shorten them so the nut came just flush with the end of the stud.
 
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