TR4/4A OD Transmission Removal and Install - 1966 TR4A

[RJS]

Hi All,

Does anyone have step by step instructions they can share? I understand the only way out is through the cockpit, not dropping it from below.

More importantly, what tools has anyone used? I do all my own work on the car with extensive set of tools but, I am 62 years old with somewhat limited access to helpers, so this maybe a solo job.
I saw someone made a transmission hoist here:

If anyone in the States has access to one, I will gladly pay to have it return shipped. I am in CT. Please PM me.

Otherwise, I have an engine hoist but, I think it needs to be low profile to lift from transmission's center of gravity (which is below the dashboard)
How about Dr. Doolin's tool. He says it is for TR6's? But will it work on a TR4A? Also, I think it only really assists with install, not removal: > Dr-Doolin - TL502 <

Thanks

Bob

 

[TR Tom]

Great idea about creating a dipstick hole in the top cover of the trans. How did you fabricate a dipstick? Karl

I tried to start a new thread showing how I made the dipstick (plus a few other upgrades I made recently to the trans) but for some reason this site won’t let me download pictures anymore, says file is too big. I’ll try again later and see if I can figure it out.

 

[RJS]

Hi All,

So, I spent my entire Sunday trying to install my rebuilt gearbox with the help of a neighbor. Engine is supported on a scissors jack under the sump. The gearbox is on a transmission jack. I made studs with grade 8 bolts to guide it in. I've got it 98% in (studs all in bell housing bolt holes) but, the problem is I still have 1/2" to 5/8" gap left and hit a wall. I tried adjusting both jacks many times with no joy. She just doesn't want to go any further. Any brilliant ideas?

I am certain the splined input shaft is engaged as I can no longer spin the tail shaft by hand

Bob

 

[Sarastro]

Unfortunately, this is pretty much the standard experience. I've found that it has to be absolutely straight, and then it will slide in easily. Last time I did this, I spent a long time trying to get it aligned right, and then suddenly it just slipped in.

 

[sp53]

Are you sure you have the tail shaft low enough to get the straight shot you need to in, and is the gap the same around the bell housing like a 1/2 there and 5/8 there. Try and get that gap the same and push. Remember how just a little lifting on the tail shaft is a lot at the input shaft. Visualize the straight line through engine and trans and let the force be with you to victory



Steve

 

[Hamish Racing]

As you’ve found it can be bloody frustrating
As the others have said it’s the alignment that is the key. As you find out when it’s right it just slots home without a lot of force.

Sometime you have to fool it and withdraw it give the end shaft a spin and try again as if it’s not getting to you.
Certainly easier with a mate. So don’t let him go far.
Oh and make sure you wire the gearbox cross shaft lever
Because you really don’t want to find the clutch thruster bearing has come off the fork once it’s fitted.

 

[KVH]

Here’s what I recall. We couldn’t get the last inch or so, either. My son said the alignment was off. I checked and it looked perfect. We debated further and my son insisted I had to lower the rear of the transmission. I resisted, saying it was already too low. I finally went along with him, and it went right in. But with both of us pushing. Lesson: It’s deceiving and tedious. Hard to see with just a glance. Be sure your guide pins aren’t too long, and that they’re not binding on the bell housing. You need some maneuvering latitude. Don’t hesitate to pull it back and start over, but I think two people are a near must in this endeavor.

 

[karls59tr]

Are you sure you have the tail shaft low enough to get the straight shot you need to in, and is the gap the same around the bell housing like a 1/2 there and 5/8 there. Try and get that gap the same and push. Remember how just a little lifting on the tail shaft is a lot at the input shaft. Visualize the straight line through engine and trans and let the force be with you to victory



Steve

Yes it's important to get the tail shaft low. I had a spare rear gearbox mount with the rubber mount no good. I removed the rubber part and just used the flat metal part as a support for the tail shaft.....that lowered the tail shaft down a few inches. Once when trying to mate the gearbox to the motor I got called away and when I got back there was no way the two would go together? Turns out I had forgotten to remove the plastic input shaft that is used to keep the clutch pack straight.