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Now mine won't start!

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crya

crya

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Hey all,
I'm a newbie and definitely not a mechanic. My 64 BJ 8 has been sitting about three months and I can't get the thing to turn over. I've got power and she cranks, just no fire. I mean, it ran great when I last drove her; she's just been sitting. Any tips on bringing her back to life given that I'm no mechanic. I really don't want to load her up and try and find a mechanic. I'm in Napa, CA and there doesn't seem to be a lot of folks in my neck of the woods able to work on something like this. Sorry this post is nothing new!

Chris
 
Not a good place to start learning, but it could be worse.

When you say it cranks but no fire, do you mean that the plugs are not firing or that the engine isn't running. Remove a spark plug, attach it to it's wire, place the shell of the plug against a metal ground, have someone crank the starter, & see if a spart jumps across the plug gap. If it does, you have eliminated several possible problems.

Turn the ignition switch on & listen for the electric fuel pump ticking. if you hear ticking, the pump is working. If no ticking, mildly tap the pump with a hammer handle & see if it starts to tick. The fuel pump is located in front of the rear axle.

If the pump ticks, then stops soon but still no start, the carburetor floats might be stuck shut. It should normally take about 5 - 10 seconds of pumping for the pump to fill empty float bowls. Lightly tap on the tops of the carb float chambers & see if the pump now fills the chambers & then stops. Make sure that fuel doesn't overflow the chambers.

If these tries don't cure the problem, you need to get help from someone who is more experienced. Do you have a friend, neighbor, relative who is more experienced in such matters. These problems are not easy to diagnose by mail.
Good luck,
D
 
Check the wire from the coil to the side of the distributor for good conection. Check that the points in the distributor are open and set properly and that the thin wires are not fraid or grounded. These are easy things to check. You learn by doing. You will be a mechanic soon.
According to the Healey help books there are a few Healey guy in Napa. If you don't have one contact Bighealey (Tracy Drummond)on this forum. Hel can get you hooked up as he is the president of one of the national clubs.
 
Hello,

I think Dave describes it very well. If a car did not start, mostly you have four locations of failures.
1. The electric (battery/starter but your motor is rotating, so this topic is finished.
2. No fire / or false fire timing. Check the contact opening /clean the inner side of the distributor cap, but do not change the spark plug wire position. If you don`t have fire on the spark plugs (according to daves describtion)check the general wire from the ignition coil to the distributor. Same way. Hold the wire to the motor to check if that fire.

3.No petrol delivery on the carbs. Move the petrol tube from the carbs and pump it in old clothes.

4. Spark plugs wet from too much petrol.( too long motor rotating with no ignition function)

Good luck (sorry for my english)

Yours michel- who will drive this weekend with a motor home on a short trip to a river for fishing
 
I'll throw in a suggestion also. In the trunk, the battery cut-off switch has a white/black wire (small gage) connected to it. Remove the wire from the switch and tape the wire end with tape so it can't touch anything. Try starting the car.
 
And don't forget the imfamous ROTER failure. I think I'd start with that first. I went through 3 roter failures this year. I carry 3 spares all tested and examined.
 
tahoe healey said:
And don't forget the imfamous ROTER failure. I think I'd start with that first. I went through 3 roter failures this year. I carry 3 spares all tested and examined.
Click to expand...

Whoa! THREE spares? What about the rotor fails? I dropped mine and it broke into three pieces. I call that a failure. But what else can go wrong with a piece of plastic and a copper arm?
 
Alright guys. Thanks. I was out of town this past weekend but I appreciate the guidance. I will try the various methods you all suggest. FYI- I've got a seemingly healthy pump as it ticks away when the ignition is on. I'll check the plugs, rotor, etc.

BTW- are there any Healey restoration shops in Northern California?
 
The brass rivet cracks the bakelite plastic. The brass can then come loose or wabble. I had one where the stop on the inside that fits onto the center shaft broke and the rotor rotated. One new one got me 6 feet down the driveway then died. We have had many threads on the including pictures of what to look for.
 
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