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No power at flasher

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Help please. No power in green at the flasher for turn signals. Wipers and dash all work. Suggestions welcome but first I want to check connections at the flasher plug. Looks like the black cover should pop off the base but it doesn’t wanna. Pry it off? Or is that just a bullet that goes in there. Tight and not much wire to work with so I am being careful.

flasherplug-1.jpg




If that doesn’t work it looks to me like that wire and the wire from wiper should connect at a quad connecter to one green wire that goes to the voltage stabilizer. I am not finding that connection or is it in the loom in my photo?


wiringforturns.jpg
 
On MOWOGS, they usually bundle them up at the fuseblock. Have you probed the wire with a sharp test light just short of the flasher plug? If not, you might be able to feel the junction in the harness....but maybe not.
Electrically same as stoplight switch, and the green wire to the headlight switch.
If it was mine, and all else worked, I'd be running a green wire from H/L switch green, or stabilizer green, to the flasher unit, taping it to the harness every couple of inches.
 
I don't believe the plug is designed to come apart. You could probably get it apart without damage, by carefully drilling or grinding away the rivet; then I think you will find the wires crimped (and possibly soldered) to the terminals inside the plastic housing. But it doesn't seem like there is a lot of point in that.

Sorry I can't help with where to look for the junction.
 
How are you testing it for power? I believe the power runs thru the flasher so if you turn your signals on left or right, put one your plus meter leads on the green wire and black to chassie, try all green wires if you done get a voltage reading then there is an issue somewhere,

Hondo
 
also you can drill the rivet out on the back and pull the plug apart, you can put a small screw and bolt to hold it together when you pull it apart or use a small aluminum pop rivet.

Hondo
 
Ignition (switched) power to one leg of flasher (left side in diagram shown), TS switch and loads (to ground) off leg to right (in diagram), flasher has to have power on one leg with key on or nothing else is going to work.
 
Thanks for the suggestions, I thought those and overnight magic would get power but no.

Stuck a pin in green wire at flasher plug with test light to ground, no power with ignition switch on. Jumped power thru test light to flasher plug green and signal switch GN which would blink test light.

So looks like I will take TOC's suggestion and run a new green probably from the heater fan. I'm going to leave the plug intact and figure out how to splice into the wire up there in my least favorite spot in the car. Maybe tomorrow.

First I'm going to go out and stare it down and wonder how one wire can't make it 3' through the loom. But I've never had turn signals and I'm not greasy so not so bad.
 
how about you check continuity from the voltage stablilizer to the flasher plug first, if you dont have a circuit you have a short, then run the 3 foot wire

just my suggestion

Hondo
 
hondo402000 said:
how about you check continuity from the voltage stablilizer to the flasher plug first, if you dont have a circuit you have a short, then run the 3 foot wire

just my suggestion

Hondo
Click to expand...

If you don't have a circuit you have a short? How about an open? BIG difference. He applied power to the pin probing the wire, it worked, if it had been shorted the pin would have glowed.
 
well to me a short and open circuit are the same, I am not an EE so pardon my use of incorrect terms, but I did get continuity right or you would have been so nice to point that out too

Hondo
 
hondo402000 said:
well to me a short and open circuit are the same,
Click to expand...
That's a common problem, so you aren't alone. The distinction is quite simple, though, no reason not to learn it if you plan to work on old cars.

A 'short' implies a connection where there should NOT be one. Very commonly, a wire connected to ground that should not be connected to ground (but could also be to another wire or whatever).

An 'open' implies NO connection where there should be one. Typically a broken conductor, or a terminal pulled out of its socket, etc.

Since the symptoms and troubleshooting techniques are considerably different, it pays to understand the distinction.
 
Sure. Easiest thing with an alternator is yank it out and have it tested. IF the power is there, usually brushes or diodes.
But, I haven't seen it, and you are maybe starting to understand how hard long-distance troubleshooting can be.
 
Ya know, I was perusing my TR2, TR2A, with TR3 supplement shop manual this evening....the wiring diagram for the three shows a 5-pole fuseblock, with TS wire on a separate post than the rest of the loads. You don't have a 5-pole fuseblock, do you?
 
I see what you mean but when I took this photo of the fuse box I got really confused. It agrees with the wiring diagram including 2 solid green but I don't have GN shown to lighting switch. Lights work except for front side markers. Everything else works except turn signals. The extra white is power to OD relay. I need to pull wires and isolate what exactly is going on.

FuseBox1.jpg
 
Have you tested for power at the brass lugs the wires are crimped to? The contacts on that fuseblock look....gnarly, dude. Especially the ones the green wires attach to. Looks like cardboard. Check the brass lugs on all with key on, make sure you've got power.

One big problem with wiring diagrams is they are often electrically correct.
While that is a good thing, they sometimes don't give a real-life representation of where junctions really are. I've cut wiring harnesses open before, looking for a junction the diagram says is there, find out power really comes from another electrically identical place.
 
TOC said:
....gnarly, dude.
Click to expand...

Thanks man, its board wax. The contacts are, err, a little cleaner. Yes power at brass lugs. Same at voltage stabilizer.

So far it’s been mechanical stuff. Slowly going thru and understanding the electrical system. Finally threw out the coat hanger lever for the OD and wired it with the help of some recent threads. Sweet.
 
Okay, we eliminated the...crud on the contacts as a possible source. Now, we either run a new wire or patch into another green switched lead.
 
The heater fan switch lead is closest. From there run a new green wire to the flasher plug. Snip the old wire there and put a new connecter on the plug green. It's so tight I think I will just put on spade connecters with a plier.

While I'm poking around I've been pulling the coil wire. Is the only issue battery drain with the key on?

Thanks
 
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