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Tips
Tips

no oil pressure

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When the pressure comes up is all you need,IIRC
 
My problem is that the pressure did not come up turning the engine with the starter. If all is right should the pressure come up using the drill?
 
Yes,not any different than the starter ,I would think
 
Pete:

When you assembled the engine, you did use assembly lube on the parts and just didn't squirt everything with motor oil, right? When I do my rebuilds, I use a variable speed drill running counterclockwise, pack the pump with vaseline and don't use full speed on the drill. As the lines fill up, you will notice that the drill starts to pull down, thats why you don't want to run it at full speed. It will become a wrist twister. I learned this method from an older mechanic that did a lot of street rods. Good luck.
 
airlifter said:
I am pretty sure that I had the distributor meshed with the oil pump. If it is not meshed then the distributor will ot set all of the way down.

I have the oil pan off now and plan to pack the oil pump with vasoline before I go any further.I will then replace the sump and refill with oil and start over.

Should I then use a drill to prime the pump? How will I know when to stop turning with the drill?

Again, I apologize for all of the stupid questions and thanks again, Pete
Click to expand...

You realize that in order to spin with a drill, you will not only have to remove the distrubutor, but also the distributor/oil pump drive gear, right ?
Replacing the drive gear once you are thru is tricky.
The gear's lower shaft must engage the OP's driven dog, while rotating due to engagement with the gears on the cam that make the drive gear turn. All that and end up with the slot on top of the drive gear running fron 1 o'clock to 7 o'clock when the #1 piston is at TDC in firing position.
If by chance the drive gear is not lined up perfectly with the OP's driven dog, when you seat the distributor,there is a good chance that by seating it you will push the OP's drive shaft down into the OP and it will not spin the pump when the cam rotates.
Point is that it is much easier and safer to set the drive gear in place and engage the OP in from the sump once the drive gear is in place and clocked.
I just want you to be sure of what you are dealing with by resorting to the drill.
. Are you thinking the drill will be turning something that the starter is not. If the starter wasn't turning the OP then you didn't have the OP engaged with the drive gear.
 
Pete:

As you can see, everybody has there own way of doing things. I've never had the issues that Poolboy is describing, but that doesn't meant they won't happen. I guess you just need to do what you are comfort with or what works best for you.
 
Just be darn sure that the drive gear engages the OP driven dog when you replace the gear. That's the key to success.
 
poolboy said:
Just be darn sure that the drive gear engages the OP driven dog when you replace the gear. That's the key to success.
Click to expand...

And, like poolboy also mentioned, it is critical to getting the timing right so that the engine will run properly, by getting the drive gear to seat and engage the oil pump, and the drive gear's top slot be aligned in a ~ 1-7 position with the fat side to the right, all so that when the dizzy gets installed the rotor arm is aligning with #1 plug wire contact in the dizzy cap while Cyl #1 is TDC on the firing stroke.

IF using a drill you have to fashion a small diam. pipe or cut a slot in a small socket extension (that you can fit into your drill's chuck) that can fit over the oil pump drive "dog" - the male tang at the top of the oil pump shaft that fits in a slot at the end of the drive gear shaft. You will be using that tool to orient the oil pump male tang to line up with the drive gear slot as you try to reinstall the drive gear in its proper angle for the dizzy so that aligns properly for timing purposes.

Earlier on above, poolboy mentioned how the oil pump shaft can be driven back into the oil pump body if one tightens up the distributor not knowing that the oil pump tang is not inside the drive gear slot. It happens. If it does, then the pump will never spin. The shaft is now too short for the tang to engage the drive gear, whether it is lined up or not.
 
I'm curious about the recommendation to pack the oil pump with vaseline?

Scott
 
HerronScott said:
I'm curious about the recommendation to pack the oil pump with vaseline?
Click to expand...
The theory is that, since the TR6 oil pump is above the level of the oil, packing it with Vaseline is one way to prime the pump.

But it's not necessary on the 4-cyl TRactor motor, since it's pump sits down inside the oil and will be primed before you can finish adding oil.
 
Ahh, thanks Randall. I didn't realize it was different from the 4-cylinder.

Scott
 
Wait a cotton pickin minute
the oil pickup is not in the oil in a 4. Then how the heck does it get oil.
Mail??
 
Eh, good point. That made no sense what's so ever. The whole deal just flashed before my eyes
 
I cannot recall a Triumph ever flashing before my eyes....unless you count the Lucas electrics going up in smoke.
 
TR3driver said:
HerronScott said:
I'm curious about the recommendation to pack the oil pump with vaseline?
Click to expand...
The theory is that, since the TR6 oil pump is above the level of the oil, packing it with Vaseline is one way to prime the pump.

But it's not necessary on the 4-cyl TRactor motor, since it's pump sits down inside the oil and will be primed before you can finish adding oil.
Click to expand...

Same basic pump on the 4-cyl spit type motor and from (my) experience I can tell you it will start pumping just fine without vaseline.
 
70herald said:
Same basic pump on the 4-cyl spit type motor and from (my) experience I can tell you it will start pumping just fine without vaseline.
Click to expand...
Well, I did say it was a theory ... :laugh:
 
Terry,
I did use assembly lube when I put everything together.

Poolboy,
I realize the problem with getting every thing aligned after using the drill to spon the pump. That is why I wanted to put the distributor in first. I just don't want to keep turning the engine without knowing that I have oil pressure.

I probably won't get to work on the car until sometime next week. I will think about it and probably have some more questions before I get started again.

Thanks again, Pete
 
I had an issue when upgrading from tube type OP to the 6 pump in that right after the packed OP was installed it moved so much gunk into the filter it completely clogged it and that reoccurred 2 more time
so maybe the filter is clogged?
 
Well, The filter did have oil in it after I turned the engine over and I didn't get any oil out of the oil gauge port. I thought I kept everything pretty clean buy it is worth a try to change it again.

Thanks
 
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