• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Newbie

jgoss

Member
Offline
Hi,

Just joined and wanted to say hi.
I'm the shall I say proud owner of a 65 AH Sprite. I've been doing a rolling restoration. The rolling has stopped for paint stripping, floorpan replacement and a post replacement.
I saw a posting about floorpan replacement and a lot of talk of bracing the doors while doing it. You all have me scared now. The way I understand it is you tack a brace from A post to B post?

Any tips are appreciated.

John Goss
 
John, I did the same type of restoration on my 1971 Midget. It is critical to prevent the body from sagging when the floor and rotten part of the A pillar are removed, or your door will not fit properly. If your sills are ok they should prevent any sag, but to be safe I would construct some bracing across the door for insurance. You can see some pictures I took of my restoration and fitting of pannels at:https://home.comcast.net/~r67cat/wsb/html/view.cgi-home.html-.html click on Photos.
Let me know if I can provide more specific help. Good luck, Rick
 
jgoss,
welcome to THE forum for people of our affliction.
Lots more help will be along shortly.
Post often and enjoy! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
Welcome to the looney bin, John.
The first advice I would offer on your floor pan project is to take plenty of measurements before you start.
I use 1" square tubing, from A post to B post, and a diagonal from one A post to the other B post. You don't have to bridge weld them in, just a couple of good tacks. This keeps the body from shifting when you remove the pans and/or sills. If you are doing the sills as well, do them first, verify that everything is still in place, then tackle the floor. I normally will tack the sills on, and take more measurements before the final welding. It's a lot easier to remove and shift things if they're only tacked.
I've not run into floor pans that were narrower than they should be, but I haven't bought any recently. I still have a couple of sets that I got a few years ago. One for a Bugeye, and I think the other set is going into a '64.
Jeff
 
Hi John, and others, I just joined this very minute. I was given a '76 Midget 2 weeks ago and am trying to figure out how to make it roadworthy. It has been sitting (inside) for 12 years and needs a little body work (dents)but has virtually no rust. First I have to get it running, free the clutch, brakes etc. Thanks in advance for the help that I've already seen.
John-Peter Smit
 
Welcome to you both! I'm in almost the same boat as you, JPSmit-- given a '76 Midget that had been sitting inside, but only for 6 years. I was lucky; I only had to work with it for an afternoon to get it started!
 
Welcome to you as well, J-P. Glad to see another example being restored to its rightful place on the road. Actually, it's more of "beside" the road. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Just kidding, they are fairly reliable cars, once you learn the tricks, incantations, and swear words.
We're here to help.
Jeff
 
Back
Top