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TR2/3/3A New TR3 floors

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Fenders and panels being pre fitted before media blast and final body work. Then the paint goes on.
 

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This project is taking so long I've forgotten how to post pictures. Chech out the link to the blog. Paint is going on and assembly is happening. It will likely be complete just in time to park it for the winter
https://texastriumph.blogspot.com/
 
Hi There Rusty55,

I really like all the detail work you`ve done to the engine compartment, engine & components. She really looks great & even though its taken alot of time; You`ll be proud to have a "Brand New" TR3 & The "Satisfaction" of a job well done is "Priceless"!

Just ask me how I know!

I`m hoping to have my `57 Small Mouth back in a month or so with the engine bay painted out so I can drop the completed drive train in her & then back for the final painting.

Best Wishes,

Russ
 
FYI if looking for floors or sills,
I have been checking ebay for parts ,and floors and sills are there all the time at what I think are good discounts.
Tom
 
TFB said:
FYI if looking for floors or sills,
I have been checking ebay for parts ,and floors and sills are there all the time at what I think are good discounts.
Tom
Click to expand...

egads, stick with the roadster factory, I have the floors from ebay.
 
That bad? I just ran across them looking for something else.

Scott
 
If you want to wait for Heritage panels, the wait may be very long - evidently the UK manufacturing site is not running panels right now. Can't remember the exact reason, but I think they were relocating. It could be a looong time before they show up again at TRF or other supplier here (unless there is existing stock).
 
re other sources of floors, I got mine from "classics to current" - rough fit seems to be pretty good, have some extra length to play with. I had to wait for an extra week for them as they were apparently adjusting the press. I would note however that the transmission side 'rim' is spot welded on as opposed to pressed as the originals were. Price is $100 per side though...

www.c2cfabrication.com

Incidentally, I ordered their rockers too - these do seem a bit off - I know everyone has to adjust these a bit - but mine are about 3/4 inch too long - should be workable - if not, not a high value part...

cheers,
Kerry
 
I was wondering about the C2C floors. I've been looking at them but wondered about the spot welded flange. Once they are in the car it shouldn't be that noticeable and mine is never going to be a concourse car, just a nice weekend driver. I thought the price was great but have still been hesitant to get them.
 
I coated mine with POR15 and like you (BRS) am going for a solid driver with the occasional fun show - not concourse. The car will also be garaged so I don't really have an issue with the spot welded flange. Incidentally, I did a preliminary fit with the new sill bolted in and the floor fit very well - length was perfect and I only had to fold over one small bit of the flange (near the cluch slave) to get it in...their rockers will require a bit of work though, almost an inch too long for my TS81749 car.
Cheers,
Kerry
 
Kerry,

I had heard that some reproductions were too short. I think I would prefer having it too long!

Scott
 
HerronScott said:
Kerry,

I had heard that some reproductions were too short. I think I would prefer having it too long!

Scott
Click to expand...

The rocker panels (outer sills) came in two different lengths...pre and post 60k. Apparently, only the longer (post 60k) sills are now being made. I have a pair of the earlier sills that I bought from The Roadster Factory many years ago to use on my restoration, but then I put a post 60k body on the car, and had to go for the longer ones.

Here is the Moss listing showing only the late sills available.
 
Mine is TS81749...anyway, its no big deal to shorten - just surprised that given the perfect fit of the C2C floor, the sills were so far off...
 
Any reason not to powder coat the pans before welding them in? (except for the lips where the welding will go)... Jim
 
Powdercoat would probably be a bit stronger than POR15, especially since POR15 works best on rough surfaces and the pans are smooth. However, I can do the complete POR15 process in my garage and recoat areas post welding as necessary. The finish when propery applied is pretty tough and more than sufficient for my car that will live in a garage (I don't plan on buying more than a tonneau for it either as it will not see the rain). Anyway, time will tell, but I suspect that these finishes are both a lot stronger than anything that was avaialbe 50 years ago.. :smile:

One tip with POR15, were gloves for all stages, obviously for the acid wash, but even for the paint application, the stuff has a dye in it that wont come off for three days, even if you scrub your hands every morning with a pummice stone (wife had issues with the unwashed look)...

Cheers,
Kerry
 
Any update on how these floors fit? I'm going to Detroit this week and am probably going to be picking up a pair if they are worth it. I got the outer sills off of ebay (the $45 ones) and they actually seem pretty close to the original ones. There of course will be some fitting but then again these cars were pretty much hand built anyway so there would even be problems with original parts from another car. How big a deal is it to replace the inner sills?
 
Well, between the kids hockey schedule and work travel I haven't been in the garage much lately, but:
I do have the floors bolted in and ready to weld:
The rocker joint lines up nicely and I have it prepped for spot welds. The front, back length is near perfect. Front right by the slave only required minor adjustment. Transmission tunnel area seems fine (although I probably will put some form of sealant over the folded and tack welded edge). The only area of challenge is the joint between rear transmission tunnel and the floor. Here, that extra fold of metal gets in the way a bit - I had thought about cutting it off in this section as the rear tunnel has a fold to which I could just weld the floor flush, but in the end I opted for more metal is better and will spot and potentially weld the whole seam for strength... My target is not concourse - just a very solid driver.
Hope that helps,
Kerry
 
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