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Spitfire New to forum and owning a spitfire and need help

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ScottFromNH

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Hi everyone.

Like the subject says I am new to the forum and also new to owning a 1973 spitfire 1500.

The car I own was sitting in a shed for the last 10 years. After I got it home I noticed the clutch peddle wasn't working. when you pushed on it, it went right to the floor with no resistance.

However I worked on getting the engine running as I wanted to make sure the engine wasn't blown. I got the engine up and running pretty well since it has sat so long. However now for some reason the clutch peddle is so hard you can not even push it to the floor at all.

Any idea's of what happened or where I should start looking? I was going to try and drain the hydraulic fluid for the clutch and replace it with new fluid but not sure if that will even help right now.

More information on the car is that it is not drive able just the engine runs right now.

any help would be great.
 
Scott , I would drain the fluid as it is probably garbage. Good bet some of the seals are shot in both brake and clutch areas.
I would do both .
Is the clutch rod moving underneath?
 
Thanks Don, I will do that to both of them and also get someone to try the clutch so I can see if the rod is moving at all underneath. With the clutch being as hard as it is I don't think so but will find out and repost what I find
 
Couple of different ways. Just empty the container by sucking it out or just pump it out with the pedal while pouring in new. Don't put new in until it is almost empty.
Another is to push it out with an air bleeder. Someone just posted about one here.
 
Shouldn't you have some kind of a brace across the top of the door openings ?
 
My guess is the slave is frozen up now and doesn't move anymore. Usually it happens at full stroke. Save yourself a ton o headache and replace ALL ( and I do mean all) hydralic parts in both brake and clutch systems. Try to rebuild the calipers but go new for everything else. You'll have those sytems working right in a weekend or two ths way. If not and you try to rebuild or piece meal, you'll fight crap for months. Get it over with now, change out all that 40 year old garbage.

It does sound like the clutch matser is still working....for now.
 
+1 with Kellysguy.

Something sitting 10 years will need all the hydraulics rebuilt or replaced. I rebuild the calipers and replaced clutch and brake masters and clutch slave. Then flush the system and then I would use synthetic fluid.

The fluid is really up to you but that is what I use because the cars sit sometimes weeks at a time and I have had good luck with it.

Save yourself time, frustration and money in the long run and just get it over with.

This is my humble thoughts.
 
Thanks everyone for the advice. I have to say I really like this site just for that reason :smile:

I will look at getting the parts for a new master for the clutch and brake and a new clutch slave and going that route. Trying to do my first major rebuild like this the easy way.

ok this might be a stupid question but I want to make sure I understand. When I get a new clutch master and slave it wont hurt the clutch when I pull all this stuff off and then replace it and put new fluid in. I know I will need to bleed the system after wards but that will be it? Sorry for asking, I have just never did this type of restoration.
 
The hydraulics are a closed system that connects mechanically to the clutch. The fluid in the system (which is brake fluid) should never even see/contact the clutch itself.

If I am remembering the Spitfire clutch correctly, make sure you leave the pushrod from the slave attached mechanically to the clutch release lever, which is inside the bell housing of the transmission, the pushrod is the only part that extends out of the bellhousing.
 
Replacing the hydraulics won't hurt your clutch itself in any way. The hydraulic system stops at the slave cylinder, which pushes the clutch rod with a loose mechanical connection. The hydraulics don't get into the bell housing and any of the components of the clutch itself. If the clutch was good to begin with it will still be good. (If the clutch was bad to begin with, well, you'll develop some more new skills...)

I just replaced the master cylinder in my 76 spit. Diligent shopping will get you a master for ~ $50 and you should be able to find a slave cheaper than that. I concur with all the advice to do it and get it done right once.

Believe me, I understand what it's like to ask questions when you simply don't know what you don't know. I've had my car for two years and one of the most pleasant surprises is how available and relatively inexpensive parts are in the era of the interwebs.

Good luck!
 
+2 for Kellysguy's advice.

However, before placing your order for parts, pull the brake master cylinder and take it apart. Thoroughly clean its bore and then examine the bore with the help of a bright flashlight. If you see any pitting, buy a new cylinder. If you are very, very, very lucky, the bore may be undamaged and justify rebuilding. Any pitting at all with the MC means you should buy a new one.

Pipercollins said he has found new MCs for as little as $50. I was not so lucky. I eventually bought a new one from BP Northwest. If you determine you need a new MC, be mentally prepared that the vintage Spitfire you have uses the most expensive MC of any Spitfire model.
 
Scott, since you are in Manchester you are not far from Brookline MA. (see my other post). Take a ride down and we can talk. I don't have all the answers but did a frame off on my 75. I've been through all of the hydraulics and mostly everything else. Look for 4050. Ernie
 
Hey Pipercollins Thanks for the advice and the information.

Hi Dklawson, Ok I will check out out to see if I can rebuild it first. I did some looking around and it seems like I can get a slave for about 90 bucks.

Hi Ernie, No Brookline isn't that far from Manchester and yes I will will certainly arrange a drive down to chat with you. I will look to see what my schedule looks like in the next couple weeks and send you an email to see if you are around. Thanks alot...




Thanks everyone for putting up with my questions as I dont want to do something wrong and mess it up even more. Not sure that is possible LOL.
 
Replace all rubber hoses too. You'll be surprised how plugged up the old ones are. Try one now and see. Pull it off and try to blow through it.
 
Hey Kellysguy.

Yeah I found that out and a lot of the hoses are brittle and cracked. I am also going to change my motor mounts as I see mine are totally cracked and chucks are missing from them.
 
When replacing the brake hoses, you may want to check out the braided stainless lines. They are a bit more expensive but they are really nice.
 
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