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TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Thanks, Jim. But that wasn't my point at all (I've seen it before).
Point is, he (Neil Revington) is trying to sell a product; and in the process, claiming it is "just as good" as a more sophisticated product. That's his opinion, and he is certainly entitled. But he isn't going to back it up by replacing any crankshafts that happen to break while using his product. And he might possibly be just the least bit influenced by the money he makes selling a less sophisticated product.
I used to agree with him; in spite of all the broken crankshafts I've seen. Then mine snapped, while I was running without any dampening. Could be unrelated, certainly. I can't prove anything. But I'm going to use a damper on the 'new' crank, just in case. BTW, that was also Ken Gillanders' opinion; that running a damper will help reduce crank breakage.
Something to try: Hold up a TR crank supported by a wire or similar, and strike it like a bell. It will ring (unless it is already cracked). Now try again while touching it with the other hand. It either won't ring at all, or the sound will be much, much softer. Is your hand designed to eliminate specific frequencies, that just happen to match the fundamental resonance of the crank?
This isn't my photo (don't have mine out of the car yet), but shows a break very close to where mine is. The funny part is that normally, I would expect maximum stress to be at the rear; where all 4 cylinders are fighting against the flywheel and drivetrain; rather than at the front where the only load is the timing chain.
Point is, he (Neil Revington) is trying to sell a product; and in the process, claiming it is "just as good" as a more sophisticated product. That's his opinion, and he is certainly entitled. But he isn't going to back it up by replacing any crankshafts that happen to break while using his product. And he might possibly be just the least bit influenced by the money he makes selling a less sophisticated product.
I used to agree with him; in spite of all the broken crankshafts I've seen. Then mine snapped, while I was running without any dampening. Could be unrelated, certainly. I can't prove anything. But I'm going to use a damper on the 'new' crank, just in case. BTW, that was also Ken Gillanders' opinion; that running a damper will help reduce crank breakage.
Something to try: Hold up a TR crank supported by a wire or similar, and strike it like a bell. It will ring (unless it is already cracked). Now try again while touching it with the other hand. It either won't ring at all, or the sound will be much, much softer. Is your hand designed to eliminate specific frequencies, that just happen to match the fundamental resonance of the crank?
This isn't my photo (don't have mine out of the car yet), but shows a break very close to where mine is. The funny part is that normally, I would expect maximum stress to be at the rear; where all 4 cylinders are fighting against the flywheel and drivetrain; rather than at the front where the only load is the timing chain.