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I picked up a 80 LE that someone had started a V6 conversion on. I am in the process on getting rid of V6 stuff! The motor mounts were removed so I installed earlier mounts. Also moved the radiator back where it should be. Now I am making a sebring type front valance. Moving it out flush with the fenders and grille is a bit of work.I am just in the fabrication stages. The car will be lowered to 67 specs. and have a chrome grille and be bumperless. The rear will also get some kind of custom look. Bob
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new LE project
- Thread starter bob67bgt
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Here is the look so far. I have to remove the panel now and finish the welding. It is mounted from the back side so no fastners show. The marker lights still need to go away and next will be the steel dash conversion. I may cut holes in the front valance for air flow or add driving lights mounted flush in it. Bob
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Silverghost
Yoda
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AngliaGT said:
To steal blatantly from that old movie:
"If It's Tuesday, Bob's spraying primer." :laugh:
mgnewbie
Senior Member
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Wow! you are my inspiration! Nice work! Couple of quick questions...I see you are doing a bit of welding. What is a good welding machine to buy? My 80B has crummy and rusted fender beads. So I ordered new beads. What is your advice on how best to get rid of the rust and install new fender beads? Any advice would be appreciated. YB
The welding torch is for heating frozen studs and bending metal. In the one pic you can see a straight piece of square tubing. I used heat to shape it to the curve of the fender. If your rear fender beads are bad you are in for alot of work. I would get another car if its more than a couple of inches that need to be replaced. The front fender beads are easy because the fenders unbolt. I am also going to be building a Midget soon. I picked up a painted tub from a friend and there is some assembly required! I hope I fit in a Midget. At 6'3" and tad over 200 it may be a tight fit. Bob
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I would have to say that if there was a vote from those who have done it, the most time consuming and tedious job, <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-size: 10pt">if </span><span style="font-size: 10pt">done</span></span> <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-size: 10pt">properly</span></span>, replacing the rear fender beads would be number one on the list. One thing for sure, you don't use a cutting torch! PJ
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Amen, Paul!
Tony and I did a back-and-forth a couple years ago about those beads with a member who was INSISTENT they were rounded on top from factory... I posted a composite photo of Horsemits' rear-end (be CIVIL! She lurks!) to illustrate the way the beads should be. I'll see if I can find that pic.
Tony and I did a back-and-forth a couple years ago about those beads with a member who was INSISTENT they were rounded on top from factory... I posted a composite photo of Horsemits' rear-end (be CIVIL! She lurks!) to illustrate the way the beads should be. I'll see if I can find that pic.
Its been a few weeks since my last update. I am in final primer except for the rear tail panel. I am waiting for a Sebring type fiberglass panel. I do not want to get the Moss product. The door jambs ar eblacka nd the engine bay is black. Suspension bits are black and ready to be installed. The one pic shows how much of the LE firewall area at the steering column needed to be removed to accept the 67 MGB column. I had new Dunlop tires mounted to a set of Revolution 4 spoke wheels today.I hope y'all enjoy the pics. Bob
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James,
I am not using a oil cooler. I have had enough experience with NEW hoses blowing off their ends. The way I personally look at it what other car uses a oil cooler from the factory? I think if I were racing or going cross country alot it might make a difference. I have a metal oil line connector from a late MGB that will take the place of the cooler lines or the rubber connector line. MGAs did not use it until part way into the 62 MK2 production and stopped after the rubber bumper 74.5 cars. I am probably the odd guy here but do not think oil temp will be a problem on a street engine. If things get that hot I do not want to be in a MGB anyway! Thanks for the thought! I am always open to suggestions or other ideas. And welcome to the Forum! Bob
I am not using a oil cooler. I have had enough experience with NEW hoses blowing off their ends. The way I personally look at it what other car uses a oil cooler from the factory? I think if I were racing or going cross country alot it might make a difference. I have a metal oil line connector from a late MGB that will take the place of the cooler lines or the rubber connector line. MGAs did not use it until part way into the 62 MK2 production and stopped after the rubber bumper 74.5 cars. I am probably the odd guy here but do not think oil temp will be a problem on a street engine. If things get that hot I do not want to be in a MGB anyway! Thanks for the thought! I am always open to suggestions or other ideas. And welcome to the Forum! Bob
billspohn
Jedi Knight
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bob67bgt said:
With all due respect (that is what we lawyers say to the judge because "You are full of crap, Your Honour" isn't considered appropriate) I do not understand judging the need or utility of a part by whether or not there are some defects in after market replacements.
That would be like saying that oil just continues to drip out, so I'm not going to use oil any more.
Your logic in saying that no other companies used coolser so wht should you is ass backwards. The way <span style="font-weight: bold">I</span> personally look at it is would any manufacturer in their right mind have added the expense of an oil cooler unless they thought it was essential?
In 1963 they sent the first 3 main MGBs to North America - and quickly realized they had stepped in it big time as many of them landed back at the dealers with burned bearings from new owners running them on highways at high speed.
They standardized the coolers, but then dropped them later when the RBB cars with single carb proved too gutless to produce enough heat to cause damage. You haven't said what engine is going into the car. If you are using a single carb low compression motor, you'll be fine with your lack of cooler. If you are using a high compression twin carb motor (matching the new appearance, I would urge you to reconsider your decision not to use a cooler.