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Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A new guy here....replacing floor TR3

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shaunetr3

Freshman Member
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Howdy all,
I am here to find any tips on replacing the floor pans in a friends 1959 TR3.....don't know a thing about the car other than the fron 2 floor pans need replacing.
I have done a search and have determined the car will be on it's wheels and one floor pan at a time will be removed.
I will try some sort of bolt on brace from the windscreen mount to the rear somewhere and remove the door.
The rockers are in good shape as someone else has replaced them couple years back so there should still be strenght with one side of the pans cut out.
Any other pointers ??
 
It is definetly best to replace one floor pan at a time to keep some structural rigidity. It is also best to span the door opening with some angle iron or something in order to keep the door gaps from changing.I bridged across from upper front valance to the rear just after where the dogleg panel goes down. This was done on the interior side. Of course, I have the instrument panel out, so you may have to bridge the gap lower down. I did this on both sides and then welded in a center brace between the two door opening braces. This can be use to lift the body off the chassis if need be.

You now have to make a decision on how you want to replace the floor. If you cut the old one out and want to replace it as originally fitted, I would say you almost have to raise the body some. I may be wrong about that, but having done this job, (original style replacement), I really don't see how it could be done without getting the body at least a couple of inches off the frame.

The other method I have seen is to cut out the old floor pan leaving about an inch of original pan around the circumference...except, of course where the removable part of the trans tunnel is. Then you trim the new panel to plop down inside and weld it up. Even then, cutting the old pan out, you have to be careful as the frame is underneath.
 
It's been a long time, but I don't remember doing anything special when I replaced the driver's side floor on my 3. I'm pretty sure that I replaced the panel while the body was still on the frame, and I think that I did brace the door opening, although I don't think there was much pressure on the brace. I completely cut out the old panel, and ground away the spot welded flanges. Everything fit together pretty easily, and the door closes just fine. The floor does have a bit of "oil can" flex to it, though.

I think that if you're careful and methodical, the job is really pretty simple
 
I can't help you with the floor, but welcome to the forum.
 
Well after surveying what I have gotten myself into I thnk I can handle this.
I will run a couple braces across the top just for insurance, I'm sure it won't need it considering there is almost no floor on the driver's side.
Another question.......
Should i weld all the way along the seams or drill holes in the flanges and make like spotwelds ??
 
Spot welds would be sufficent, as long as they're close togeather (i.e. every couple of inches) not only 3 or 4 per side. Then use a good automotive seam sealer.
On the TR3 the pans are not directly structural but they do affect the cars regidity and panal alignment, so the braceing is a good idea. Better yet if you can get the pans tacked in place, then test fit the doors to make sure everything ok. then finish welding the pans in place.
Good luck Guv'na
 
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