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new CV half shafts

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Alrighty, then. Sounds like a good time to order the CV shafts from Richard. I just spent several hundred dollars on a new Differential seal and bearings, and now here comes another "big" outlay. Axles, Hubs and shipping, to boot, plus extras, of course, because who could do without new rear brake lines and brake shoes.

I've barely got the courage. We've all been asked, "When will this ever end." As if it's a question. I'm thinking of explaining that I'm taking advantage of some amazing coupon offer that appeared online. Laughing hysterically about how I'm virtually stealing these parts (and then offering to take out the garbage for the first time in a month). It's about come to that. Maybe others have aleady been there.

Oh, well.
 
Been there and done all of that.

It never ends. When you get done with one car, you get stupid and buy another.

Then it starts all over again..........
 
My TR4A IRS:

I keep getting closer to the purchase of GoodParts CV axles, but then another question or two arises.

Let's say I need to replace a rear coil spring later down the road when I have CV axles.

Will the hub and axle drop down far enough to allow removal of the spring, or will I be required to detach the axle from the differential?

What about that axle nut that goes thru the new hub? Is there a great deal of torque required to tighten it?

If loosened, must a brand new nut be used due to some kind of locking design?

Is there a trick to tightening the nut with the car on the ground? I assume I must block the tires?

Thanks again. I'm getting there. I hope . . . .
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Will the hub and axle drop down far enough to allow removal of the spring, or will I be required to detach the axle from the differential? [/QUOTE]

Yes, well at least it does on a TR6. See the picture below:

What about that axle nut that goes thru the new hub? Is there a great deal of torque required to tighten it?

The torque lbs are in the instructions.

If loosened, must a brand new nut be used due to some kind of locking design?

I don't remember, but I probably would if it were my car.

Is there a trick to tightening the nut with the car on the ground? I assume I must block the tires?

Impact wrench then torque wrench.
 

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Hey how that warning on those shots Paul?
Dang that's bright.

And purdy too
 
Don,

That's the way the axles came. Blame Richard Good.
 
When I tightened the nut with my impact wrench first and put my torque wrench on it it was just right, to tighten the nut I put the wheels on lowered the car on the ground, took the nut off the wire wheels, put it in gear and the emergency brake on, stuck the 1 1/4 inch socket in thru the wire wheel adapter and torqued it down. Easy, whey you do it you might as well put the nylatron bushing in too! I didnt do the adjustable brackets, maybe should have done it

Hondo
 
CV half shafts/trailing arms/cleaning, etc

From an older post:

I'm trying to recall. Once the trailing arms are cleaned, was it the consensus that a clear coat of some sort be applied? Hondo?

More details please?

Thanks.
 
Re: CV half shafts/trailing arms/cleaning, etc

I cleaned them and sprayed a 2 part automotive clear, it keeps them clean and from oxidizing
 
Re: CV half shafts/trailing arms/cleaning, etc

I clearcoated mine as well. I think I've seen some people that have painted them silver.

Scott
 
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