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new CV half shafts

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All we need now are the pictures of the finished products and those shiny new CV joints.
 
here is a pic during the reinstall process, all finished now, took the 6 out for a spin last night, no more TR6 Twitch, runs nice, quiet, and its faster, well maybe mentally another project comes together thanks Brosky let me know when your package arrives

Hondo
 

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Lookin' goooood!!!!

I will let you know. Good luck with the rest of the assembly.
 
Should have put rear disk on that thing while you were at it,Hondo.
 
Don I am thinking about that one too, I dont want to do it all at once, my next project around thanksgiving is pulling the engine and having it rebuilt and bring it up to about 160 HP to smoke those rice burners,

Hondo
 
I am also waiting on Brosky to do it so I can read his great detailed instructions on How to do it, thats why it only took me by mself, except for my hot girl friend bring me a cold beer, only about 8 hours to do it including smoothing out the trailing arms and soda blasting them

Hondo
 
I'd like to know how you decide between the new CVs the uprated sliding axles with the heavy duty U-Joints. I note Goodparts offers both.

Also, I don't understand how smoothing out and polishing the trailing arms could really be doing much to strengthen anything?? I'm curious what physics would be at work there.

I'd sure like to see the pics of the CVs installed.

thx
 
That really is awesome. Great links.

Where do you get those flexible brake lines I see there?
 
by smoothing out the casting flash and blending out nicks and sharp corners, you remove stress risers. a stress riser is a local area in a part that if the part is under stress a crack can form at that area and cause the part to fail. so removing stress risers make the part less likely to fail. If you have Roger williams how to improve book look on page 23, those areas at a minimum need to be smoothed out
 
KVH said:
That really is awesome. Great links.

Where do you get those flexible brake lines I see there?
Click to expand...

Spend a hour or two poking through Paul's and my site.........lots of good stuff posted there.

The brake lines are from one of the best kept secrets for Triumph parts... Ted Schumacher of TSI has been a Triumph racer, part supplier and enthusiast for over 30 years and is one of the most knowledgeable guys in the business. His prices are competitive and if you don't see something on his site, call and ask. Besides new parts, he also has a lot of rebuilt stuff. I rebuilt my whole brake system using new (pads, shoes & hoses) and rebuilt (calipers & servo) parts from Ted.
 
Ted is a great source. I got mine from TRF when I ordered all of the brake hydraulics and lines from them, including pre bent steel line for the entire car.
 
If I decide to replace the studs using KeenSerts, and if 3/8 is too big, what is the correct size? 5/16?

Also, in re-reading all the posts on this, I note the belief among some that if the studs aren't showing a problem, maybe best not to start one. Along those lines, I could imagine trying to back a few out, and finding them frozen, or perhaps breaking one off, then creating a real problem.

I'm tempted to just replace them, but I do see both sides of that issue.
 
I only had one that had a helicoil in it, all others were in pretty well and not stripped out but the main issue is that Triumph Tapped the holes with a fine thread and what I have read is it should have been a coarse thread in the Aluminum for more holding power, that why the recommendation is to drill out the holes and use the 14 Thread per inch keenserts on the outside and the fine threaded inside so you still use the original studs.

Hondo
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I'm tempted to just replace them, but I do see both sides of that issue.[/QUOTE]

JMHO, but the potential for improvement and avoiding any future issues far outweigh the effort to install them.

These cars are getting older and any opportunity to improve on known potential weaknesses should be taken, if at all possible.
 
Brosky said:
...These cars are getting older and any opportunity to improve on know potential known weaknesses should be taken, if at all possible.
Click to expand...

My wife said that of me just last week
 
Mine too, which is another reason why I had to go back in correct the terrible grammar that you quoted me on.
 
Back again.

OKAY, so the original axles were sliding ones which allow considerable play around corners and over bumps in the road.

How much play and give do the CV axles have? Will they be more harsh on the frame and other parts?

I would think the CVs should have the same play and movement, but I'd like to know what others say.

thx
 
I am not sure if they have the same amount of play or sliding in and out compared to the originals but there are instruction with the CV axles and you do a couple of checks to make sure you have whats call reserve. basically when the trailing arm is at full extension like when you jack the car up that the joint doesnt slide out of its coupling and full compression like when trailing arm hits the upper rubber bumper the sliding joint doesnt bottom out before full compression on the trailing arm, on the CV axles the in and out action happens in the black housing that mounts to the differential see pauls web site. the outboard joint only swivles for lack of correct terminology. hope this helps

Hondo
 
Both the rzeppa and the tripost bearing design constant velocity joints are improvements on the old design... Lots better as far as friction transfer, not wasting energy and have full movement... Only concern is the sizing of the joint for the application and maintaing the veracity of the boots, so that road detritus does not get in the joint and contaminate it.
 
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