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Dale, I have a suggestion. Buy a Nissan Sentra and cut the top off. You shouldn't have anymore problems.
Patrick

79' Spit driver
79' next driver
78'
77'
80' parts car

Waynesville, N.C. (no Pedros here..)
 
hilsideser said:
Dale, I have a suggestion. Buy a Nissan Sentra and cut the top off. You shouldn't have anymore problems.
Patrick
Click to expand...

As Kerry would say, "Aw, Maaannnn"

That was cruel!

Dale, pay no attention to the ribbing. Stick with it and beat this thing. We're solidly behind you.

Mickey
 
The "kit" you need is on an aircraft ATM: A flyin' ASE Certified one. Let him deal with what you've got. Unless the housing has been FUBAR'd from torquing it down on the wrench he'll have it sorted in an hour or so. And we're all on virtual stand-by.
 
Bugeye58 said:
There are quite a few belts that have what appear to be "cogs" on the outside surface, to make them more flexible.
Dales belt is correctly installed.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I stand corrected. I've got half a dozen cogged belts on the shelf for various autos and one not one of them run cogs-out.
 
Jeff, You have it correct. My belt is installed properly.

The belt I installed is a solid VEE with indentations
along the outer surface to help it flex.

I seriously doubt it would be possible to install a
fan bet inside out. The diameters are different for
one thing and most likely, as soon as someone tightened
an inside out install and cranked the engine, the
belt would probably flip into correct position.

Here's a photo of a outside surface ribbed fan belt,
properly installed in my TR.

fanbeltcombo2.jpg
[/img]
 
hilsideser said:
Dale, I have a suggestion. Buy a Nissan Sentra and cut the top off. You shouldn't have anymore problems.
Patrick

79' Spit driver
79' next driver
78'
77'
80' parts car

Waynesville, N.C. (no Pedros here..)
Click to expand...

Patrick, Those are very long Spitfires you have there!!
 
Ok- Against my better judgement I have begun a machined
engine part repair/fix job.

I have now indeed pulled the water pump housing unit.
I can see it is a machined surface matching up against
machined surface on the engine.

Pedro's water pump housing piece was mighty ugly when
I removed it. I cleaned it up as best I could.

I have begun hand machining the pump housing surface
that will mate against the engine. With a glass polishing
slab and grit I can get to .005" tolerance.

In my photo, every thing white/light grey is within .005"
Everything in dark grey is below the surface of the
white/lt grey.

What should this engine part tolerance be? And is .005"
acceptable? I admit very up front that machined parts
sound an awful lot like the beginning of super, major $$$
expensive engine work.

Does this pump housing engine part need to be sent out
to a machine shop? If so, the Crypt Car project halts
here and now. Agreement with wife. Engine work stops
the project.
housingcombo.jpg
[/img]
 
Dale :

Personally, I just work it flat with a machinist's file. Using a plate & abrasive is overkill, IMO. But, given your picture, I'd keep going until there is a bright line all around the water passages, especially that big notch on the LH side in the photo.

In theory, the gasket plus Hylomar should fill quite a bit (Hylomar is advertised as filling up to .010"), but why take a chance ?

Not worth paying a machine shop to do the work, IMO ... if you can't get it yourself with either the plate or a file, then I'd throw it back together and start looking for a good used housing for next time. If it leaks, use a little stop-leak.

FWIW, I'm pretty sure most machine shops would just put it back the way you've already got it. That's one of the reasons I prefer to do my own work.
 
Dale, Gasket material is made in various thickness to accommodate variances in surfaces. The only thing a gasket cannot seal to is a warped part. From what I can see yours isn't and you have done a fine job preparing the surface. With the proper gasket, the part can go back on without sealant. However, a little none hardening sealant will not hurt. Prep it, powder coat it (I can't wait to see what color it will be) and put it pack on.
 
Powder Coat it?

Of course that came to mind immediately.
But I have a brand new water pump already
installed, it functions and does not leak.

I bake my powder coating at 400* F for 20 minutes.
Can the bearings/bushing inside the water pump
withstand 20 minutes at 400*F.

I don't want to remove the new water pump since
I have no gasket. If it can be cooked at 400* then
I will powder coat the housing.

can the pump bearings/bushing withstand 400* ??

d
 
Dale, the only thing that makes that a machined surface is the fact that when made, they cleaned up the back on a machine. A very large, slow turning, mill cutter. Put a gasket on it and go.
Jeff
 
I sure wouldn't risk it. The bearings won't be hurt, but usually there is 'rubber' in the seal that will be. Won't do any good for the grease in the bearings either.
 
Bummer Frank- I tried to shield your name from
this latest fiasco. In all honesty, it IS pretty
difficult to detect there is a wrench sticking out
of the pump housing interface with the engine.

I certainly missed it. Even as you and I were running
water thru system to detect the leak!! I still didn't see the wrench. LOL

Ain't we two goof ball gezerss??

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

wrench2.jpg
[/img]
 
Tinster said:
Powder Coat it?

Of course that came to mind immediately.
But I have a brand new water pump already
installed, it functions and does not leak.

I bake my powder coating at 400* F for 20 minutes.
Can the bearings/bushing inside the water pump
withstand 20 minutes at 400*F.

I don't want to remove the new water pump since
I have no gasket. If it can be cooked at 400* then
I will powder coat the housing.

can the pump bearings/bushing withstand 400* ??

d
Click to expand...

I don't know if the pump can handle 400 degrees for 20 minutes, and did not know it was still attached to the housing. So no, I would not powder coat the pump. Squirt it with paint, put it on, and go.
 
No powder coating. Gasket with sealer should do the job.
 
Dale,
Don't paint it. Just stick it back on with a new gasket and a smear of sealer on either side of the gasket. I am sure it was like that when it left the factory. It will be fine. You can give it a spot of paint in the months ahead when you are bored and can't think of anything else to do on the car.
Nick
 
NickMorgan said:
Dale,
Don't paint it. Just stick it back on with a new gasket and a smear of sealer on either side of the gasket. I am sure it was like that when it left the factory. It will be fine. You can give it a spot of paint in the months ahead when you are bored and can't think of anything else to do on the car.
Nick
Click to expand...

That's the plan, Nick. Its already cleaned up, unrusterized,
wire brush shiny and coated with thin oil. Once we all
finish a fine Cuban dinner tonight and Ben hands me the
gasket materials, the car will be back together before Ben
and wife wake up tomorrow morning after their all day trip
here. They will be two REAL TIRED pups.

D
 
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