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TR6 need help on long dead TR6

Lou6t4gto

Freshman Member
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Just got a '73 TR6 project, bought it with no keys, been sitting 15 years ! I pulled the distributor and spun it up to 80 PSI oil pressure for about 2 min. Now I'm trying" to crank it over (Jumped, no key yet) but the Starter will Spin", BUT will not engauge". Thinking solenoid ??? (the kind mounted on top od the starter).
also, I can't remember, will the lights work if the ign key is OFF ? Can the ign Lock be Changed without replacing the whole steering lock mechanism ?? I already got it off the column so the car will steer. Thanks for any help you can give.
 

TRopic6

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Welcome Lou! The headlight switch will work with the key off. It gets power from a brown wire connected to the red cable on the positive post of the battery. Check & clean all those, as well as on the fusebox for othe electrical items. The solenoid is supposed to pull in and 1) throw the pinion forward to mesh with the ring-gear on the flywheel and 2) bridge the contacts at the end of its travel to supply power direct from the battery. You may need to remove the starter to clean all that up.

I think the lock mechanism is pinned into the column lock mechanism. It may be possible to take it apart with a hammer & drift, but I've never done it. I had one, complete with keys, in the garage but am in the process of moving so now in a box. If I find it I'll let you know. It should be possible to have a key made though - they're pretty basic. Figure out what type of blank it needs though - there are several.

Jeff
74.5 & 75 TR6
 
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Lou6t4gto

Freshman Member
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Welcome Lou! The headlight switch will work with the key off. It gets power from a brown wire connected to the red cable on the positive post of the battery. Check & clean all those, as well as on the fusebox for othe electrical items. The solenoid is supposed to pull in and 1) throw the pinion forward to mesh with the ring-gear on the flywheel and 2) bridge the contacts at the end of its travel to supply power direct from the battery. You may need to remove the starter to clean all that up.

I think the lock mechanism is pinned into the column lock mechanism. It may be possible to take it apart with a hammer & drift, but I've never done it. I had one, complete with keys, in the garage but am in the process of moving so now in a box. If I find it I'll let you know. It should be possible to have a key made though - they're pretty basic. Figure out what type of blank it needs though - there are several.

Jeff
74.5 & 75 TR6
I'm not sure if a key CAN be made. it looks like some one has tried to use something other than a key in it !
 

mrv8q

Luke Skywalker
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Check out MOSS or The Roadster Factory for just individual ignition switches. I'm blanking now on the site where you can download a PDF and print out a wiring diagram for your '73 '6. I don't think the 73s had the seat belt interlock.
 

TRopic6

Jedi Warrior
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Oh - gotcha. I think there is a pin that you that you brill or drift out and remove the barrel. Hopefully someone who has done it will chime in.

Jeff.
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Another possibility on the starter is that the ring gear has moved back until the starter can't reach it. Be sure to take a look when you pull the starter out. Someone posted a photo recently, but I don't have a link handy.

If the switch mechanism is similar to my Stag, the lock barrel can be changed separate from the housing. But you have to be able to turn the barrel to the On position so the pin lines up with the hole. I found it fairly easy to pick the lock (check YouTube for how to) but you may have to take it to a locksmith.
 

Gliderman8

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Another possibility on the starter is that the ring gear has moved back until the starter can't reach it. Be sure to take a look when you pull the starter out. Someone posted a photo recently, but I don't have a link handy.
Here you go. It's certainly worth a look to see if the ring gear moved.
IMG_2087.jpg
 
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Lou6t4gto

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Ok, I got it to crank over, but it just won't start. took the entire key switch assembly out, going to bring it to a locksmith. Am I correct in thinking, that when the key is on, there should be 12 volts at the Coil ?? Even if the carbs need to be rebuilt, it should start for a few seconds with a shot of "quick start" right ?
spins over, has 80psi oil pressure, seems like it "wants to start", just won't do it.
 
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Lou6t4gto

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also, it has 12 volts to the light switch, but no lights ! already R&Red the fuses. Sitting a long long time ! :-(
 

mrv8q

Luke Skywalker
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It's easy to R&R the fuse box itself. Cleaning up mine made a huge difference in getting my long dormant '74 TR6 up and going. Check yer grounds!
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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You should see something at the coil, but maybe only 6-8 volts if the points are closed. For a quick test, connect a temporary wire from the battery hot post to the hot post on the coil and then see if it will start. But don't forget to disconnect it afterwards as it will run down the battery.

I don't like "quick start", it doesn't always work (especially if the plugs are fouled). Carb cleaner (eg Jet-Spray Gumout) works much better IMO.

The headlights aren't fused, so likely that problem is somewhere else. Get a test light and start checking for where you do and don't have juice, like at the outputs of the main light switch.

PS, Thanks Elliot.
 

gbtr6

Jedi Trainee
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One answer for the ignition is if you have a 5 hole plinth where the heater controls are is to get a TR4 switch and put it there. I did that on my 74 TR6. Otherwise there's a local Guy I can see about getting one with keys for you.

Perry
 

mgNOT

Senior Member
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Lou,
I see on triumphexp that you are looking for the lock barrel for a TR6 ignition switch. I have taken mine apart (only a very few have done this), and replaced the lock with SW-IGNIT-500449 from Obsolete Automotive
in Port Edward, Ontario 519-337-3232. I bought mine a couple of years ago, and the supply at that time was very limited, and I don't see the item listed now.
I found the barrel to be two halves, and mine was so worn that one of the pins fell out and got jammed sideways. It would have been an option to just remove that pin pair
and put it together, but since I found the replacement, I went with that.
Best Wishes,
Dennis
 

dklawson

Yoda
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Check out MOSS or The Roadster Factory for just individual ignition switches. I'm blanking now on the site where you can download a PDF and print out a wiring diagram for your '73 '6. I don't think the 73s had the seat belt interlock.

Kevin, were you thinking about the Advance Auto Wire schematics?
Link to TR6 Schematic
 
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Lou6t4gto

Freshman Member
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Lou,
I see on triumphexp that you are looking for the lock barrel for a TR6 ignition switch. I have taken mine apart (only a very few have done this), and replaced the lock with SW-IGNIT-500449 from Obsolete Automotive
in Port Edward, Ontario 519-337-3232. I bought mine a couple of years ago, and the supply at that time was very limited, and I don't see the item listed now.
I found the barrel to be two halves, and mine was so worn that one of the pins fell out and got jammed sideways. It would have been an option to just remove that pin pair
and put it together, but since I found the replacement, I went with that.
Best Wishes,
Dennis

yes, when I took it apart I saw that the barrel is in 2 halves, I thought it was broken. But not having a key for it, I removed the springs and tumblers so I couls start it with any key. but Wouls LIKE to have a working Lock.
 
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