Need exhaust header advice/source for Amos

[angelfj1]

Dale: I agree with Ray. You should consider replacing the header with an original cast iron exhaust manifold. They are readily available.

 

[tdskip]

stainless steel does not rust. if you try to weld rusted metal you will end up chasing the hole till you get to good metal. You could cut out the bad section and weld a new piece in.

Exactly - my guess Dale is that it need to be replaced.

 

[71MKIV]

anybody competent with an old fashioned oxy acetylene torch would be able to fill the hole and allow Dale to continue to drive until he finds what he wants.

wouldn't even need to braze, all you need is an old coat hanger and a few minutes.

the advent of cheap mig welders and everybody forgot how to use a torch.

I've done similar repairs in the past.

 

[BRSLimited]

If it were here in Michigan I could do it probably but kind of a long way to ship it.

 

[71MKIV]

same here, field trip? weld the manifold in exchange for a boat ride?

 

[TR3driver]

Hey, Dale, did you see this manifold on eBay ?

I don't know what shipping would cost, but I'm sure Ted will work with you to find something acceptable.

 

[71MKIV]

I've met Ted and have worked with him in the past. Very nice guy. I'll vouch for him too.

With that manifold you'll need to have the muffler shop fab up a down pipe, or buy something from one of the major suppliers to finish the job.

Some POR 15 high temp paint and it will look fine.

 

[Tinster]

Thanks Ray- I'll check into it.

regards,

dale

 

[hondo402000]

hey dale I noticed the bracked for your accelerator cable is on the manifold, you have it in that position just to hold it, but in reality the carb goes on and then the bracket, right?

Hondo

 

[Tinster]

Well Hondo- you've got a good eye for detail. Can you imagine the huge vacuum leak if I bolted the carb over top of the bracket? an 1/8" gap sucking air!! Wow.

Yes, just holding the throttle bracket while the carbs are off.

best regards,

dale

 

[Tinster]

Thanks everyone for great advice. I am using a little bit of everyone's, I think. I dug into the header pipe hole this afternoon and it was "ground" by the Ratco SS cable. Wire drill wheel hit white metal instantly. The hole did NOT expand in size. White metal all around the hole.

Money became a major issue as of two weeks ago due to my high tech Merc engine suddenly needs $2 to $4k repair work. Ah Priorities!! Looks like, temp repair, source a decent orig. manifold now and replace everying AFTER fishing season. My winter is your summer when it comes to driving the Six. I've got a good game plan now. Thanks everyone. I'll photo the beer can cover of the patch!
Dale

 

[angelfj1]

Dale: Regardless of the solution you employ, new header or cast iron manifold, you must sort out the throttle linkage interference. Otherwise you will eventually "saw" through the replacement manifold/header.

 

[Tinster]

Dale: Regardless of the solution you employ, new header or cast iron manifold, you must sort out the throttle linkage interference. Otherwise you will eventually "saw" through the replacement manifold/header.

Thanks Frank!!

I kinda that one out on my own. LOL!
Hopefully my short term fix will work and
the SS cable will NOT touch an original manifold
I plan to install.

Thanks for the advice/

dale= progress reports and photos to follow.

 

[angelfj1]

Perfecto!

 

[Tinster]

Wow! Thank you God! Finding good, white, header pipe steel is a financial blessing at this point in my recreational life. It appears i can make a repair and safely drive to the exhaust shop. I bought a Thero Steel Headrer repair kit and it is now installed. Kinda fun learning a new skill. I've tons of photos, the repair will be cured by morning and I can drive over to the shop. Still hoping to source an original C.I. header. Here's some progress photos.
Thanks all for your input.

 

[71MKIV]

Does PR have auto inspections? If not, shoot, there's nothing wrong with what you did.

Drive it man, drive it!

 

[Tinster]

Only yearly air pollution incections, Steve. My car aleardy has the year 2010 air quality inspecftion. Mu buddy owns nthe testing station.

 

[Tinster]

Randall- Thanks for the heads-up on the used, original style header. I've placed a bid and should know by dinner time if I have won.

I suspect I will need to order a manifold to head gasket. Will I need to order
studs and washers and nuts? Anything else you can think I will need to order to
install the stock header?

Thamks again,

dale

 

[TR3driver]

I would definitely replace the lock washers. The rest will depend on the condition of what you have; but given your experiences so far, I'd go ahead and order them. Ask Ted if he will include them with your header.

Don't forget the gasket, nuts & washers for the manifold-to-headpipe connection.

Can't think of anything else offhand, except a good copper-based anti-seize to use on all the studs.

 

[TR3driver]

it looks like those are 175 cd's. not cd 2's if they are than they are adjustable.

Just for clarity, I'll point out that there is only one main adjustment, which changes the mixture equally throughout the range. In fact it's somewhat dangerous on a modified engine, because you set the adjustment at idle, but it also affects the mixture at cruise. If your exhaust changes reduce backpressure at cruise, the mixture will probably go lean there even though it is adjusted to be correct at idle.

I believe this is a common cause of failure with tubular headers.