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Need exhaust header advice/source for Amos

BRSLimited

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I usually adjust the carbs to highest idle and then richen them up about 1/4 turn just for that reason. For some reason these engines seem to like being a little richer anyway, at least here in Michigan.
 
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Tinster

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TR3driver said:
mtlman8 said:
it looks like those are 175 cd's. not cd 2's if they are than they are adjustable.
Just for clarity, I'll point out that there is only one main adjustment, which changes the mixture equally throughout the range. In fact it's somewhat dangerous on a modified engine, because you set the adjustment at idle, but it also affects the mixture at cruise. If your exhaust changes reduce backpressure at cruise, the mixture will probably go lean there even though it is adjusted to be correct at idle.

I believe this is a common cause of failure with tubular headers.

Randall- they are for sure 175 CD2. Jeff Palya rebuilt them and I have mixture needles I can adjust thru the top with the Roadster carb tool.

I wrote Ted an e-mail about purchasing all the other stuff I need to convert back to stock. You know me. I am anal about purchasing new hardware and tap/die everything.

thanks again,

dale
 

TR3driver

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Tinster said:
You know me. I am anal about purchasing new hardware and tap/die everything.

Yeah ... I was surprised you asked the question :jester:
 
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Tinster

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Ha ha ha!!! Randall- particularly when you consider I replaced eveything with new gaskets and fasteners when I installed my Jeff Palya rebuilt intake manifold.

They guys at the specialty fastener shop love me.

Here's a photo of the final header repair, steel, cap being formed to shape.
Beer can are aluminum. Healthy Choice Clam Chowder is packaged in steel cans.

I prefer the steel to reduce the electrolysis action of the Al and Fe.


steelshape.jpg


Almost bid time my Stock header.

Dale
 
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Tinster

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Hey Hey Hey!!

I won the OEM exhaust headers!
Thanks Randall.

Whay color shall I powder coat them?


dale
 

TR3driver

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I like white, but cast iron grey is good, too.
 
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Chartreuse??!! :jester:
 

Andrew Mace

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Tinster said:
Here's a photo of the final header repair, steel, cap being formed to shape.
Beer can are aluminum. Healthy Choice Clam Chowder is packaged in steel cans.

I prefer the steel to reduce the electrolysis action of the Al and Fe.


steelshape.jpg
Gee, Dale, it's almost as if you'd photographed the exhaust system on any of several of my cars! I've been doing that sort of patch for many, many years, having first learned about it in the classic Dick O'Kane book <span style="font-style: italic">How to Repair Your Foreign Car....</span> <span style="font-style: italic">Healthy Choice</span> cans are good, as are most <span style="font-style: italic">Campbell's Chunky</span> soup cans.

A couple years back, my sister was visiting me from her home about 110 miles away. As she got to where I was, the exhaust system on her Daewoo broke; it looked as if it had cracked before and someone had just put a clamp on bridging the crack. I took my usual Chunky soup can and another clamp and put it all together, knowing it would get her home and then to her mechanic...who pronounced it "good to go" after retightening one clamp! :banana:
 
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Yisrael! I would to visit you.

Well, I let everything harden and minimum 24 hours and put the carb compenents backs together. Engine fired right up on full choke. No leaks from the 2 header repairs. After warm-up: balanced the carbs to a noce, smooth 800-900 rpm.

I still get backfires from time to time at idle. I think this is due to air/fuel needle which I do nor quite understand. My plugs all look rich mixture
but my idle is within specs.

HELP!!!

thanks Dale

headerrepair.jpg
 
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