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need clutch help

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The water temperature gauge connects to the front of the cylinder head around the thermostat. It is a thin tube with a wire spiraled around it. !!!IT IS NOT A WIRE. DO NOT CUT IT.!!! It is a tube that is filled with Ether. There is a bulb in the head and as the water heats up the pressure increases. If you cut the tube you can not splice it like a wire. You buy an expensive gauge. The best wrench to remove it is a six point tubing wrench. It looks like a box end wrench that has a slit cut in it, so you can pass it over the tubing. Pick one up if you don't have one. I think it is 5/8". I know Sears carries them. Other than that removing the engine is straight forward. We are always here to answer questions. Lots of pictures are better than tagging everything and faster. Phil
 
As I remember 27 bolts to remove engine.
 
Jack, it is a little easier in a BE than in a 67 due to the front bodywork that needs removed that is not there on a BE (which makes them a little easier), but basically you're right. Danielnorton, just remember that when you start lifting it out you can always count on finding at least 1 thing that you forgot to disconnect, so just pull her out SLOWLY, and keep a good weather-eye out on what is going on.
 
GROUND STRAP!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Mine NEVER got stretched. The ones I've had to replace on clients' cars over the last forty years have "ranged" tho! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
Doc wins the little brown bear. I done that also.
 
And, more important is to remember to reconnect it after engine installation. Throttle cables do not like being used as the ground strap!
Jeff
 
Yup. They tend to weld themselves into one solid piece. And get really HOT when it happens. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
Worse than throttle cables are choke cables... when they get real hot they tend to fry wires under the dash that are nearby!!! Believe me I KNOW!!
 
Re: need clutch help...READ THIS!!!!!

There is no need to start the motor.

If I were you I'd see if the clutch was releasing by ...

1) seeing if the throwout arm is traveling about 1" at the clevis pin end as the pedal is depresed and released.

2) With the car in any gear ROLL the car forward with the clutch depressed....it should roll freely.....letting the clutch out then, slowly, when the clutch release point is reached, the pushing will become harder and the motor will statr to slowly rotate(turn over).

If the clutch still wont release then.....

Familiarize yourself with the exploded view on Page 26 of the Moss catalog.

Disconnect the clevis pin at the end of the throwout arm, remove the boot at the bell housing hole and look in there and see whats happening as you put a little tension on the throwout arm. Could be the throw out bearing carbon face is damaged/disintegrated, or the pressure plate is damaged..or more.

Before you remove the motor explore thoroly.
 
Re: need clutch help...READ THIS!!!!!

I cannot push the car at all when in gear whether the clutch is in or out. I did finally get to try Phil's idea by starting the car on a hill and it ran fine (drove around the block 3 times with the clutch to the floor)

Problem is, the brakes need to be adjusted so while I was able to stop, I could "slam on" the brakes in such a way to make the car stop quicky and throw the clutch loose.. So I'm ordering the new brake parts before I try that again.

I did look up into the clutch though the hole that is basically opposite the throw out arm, when I pressed the clutch in and out, the the arm moves and everything inside seems to move fine (everything moves about an inch), though it (the release bearing) doesn't go all the way into the clutch unless I push the throwout arm with my hand and then I hear a grinding, but still no disengagement.

I'm definitely going to recheck everything I can before I decide to pull the engine, that's for sure.

on that note, any suggestion for an engine stand? I figure I'll rent the engine lift for a day pull the engine, put it on a stand and rent the lift again once I get the clutch all worked out (might be a week or more if I need to order parts etc, so I figure better to buy a stand vs rent one)
 
Re: need clutch help...READ THIS!!!!!

I'm cheap- I just put the engine on the workbench, or floor if the workbench is too full. Unless you are going to pull the pan why bother with a stand?
Bill
 
Re: need clutch help...READ THIS!!!!!

I have always worked on the floor (you don't have to lift the engine so far) and use a little tool-caddy/shop-seat to sit and work in comfort. Spills and mess are easier to deal with on the floor I find too!
 
Re: need clutch help...READ THIS!!!!!

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif Tho I ~have~ a stand, it usually sees use only with a full tear-down/rebuild.

...think of working with it onna floor as "sophisticated mud wrestling"! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
Re: need clutch help...READ THIS!!!!!

And, unless you have the side mount adapter, you can't do any clutch/flywheel related work on the stand anyway.
Jeff
 
Re: need clutch help...READ THIS!!!!!

ok, seems easy enough, just put some cardboard boxes on the ground and the engine on top. Will the engine not go on a stand with the tranny attached (without a side mount adapter) or it's just not possible to work on the clutch without it?
 
Re: need clutch help...READ THIS!!!!!

Most bolt to the rear of the block and don't allow room to get to the clutch assembly. Side mount adaptor bolts up to the side of the block and will allow access. I wouldn't try to put it on a side mount adaptor with the tranny attached in any case. It'd be over center (out of balance) big time. Just easier to deal with on the floor unless you have intent to do internal engine work.
 
Re: need clutch help...READ THIS!!!!!

"""""" though it (the release bearing) doesn't go all the way into the clutch unless I push the throwout arm with my hand and then I hear a grinding, """""""""

Well it looks like plan B then......"""""but still no disengagement."""""

"""""""on that note, any suggestion for an engine stand?""""

as posted above...just set it on a bench or the ground. The oil pan is flat. You might cut a few lenghts of 2 x 4 wood....6 or 8 pieces....and stack and nail so as to support the front motor plate to keep the lump upright and to support the rear plate when you unscrew the trans and slide it back when you get it all out.

"""""I'll rent the engine lift for a day""""

Can you bum one from a friend??

You also want to get an "engine tilter".....(see Harbor Freight ...about $25) ..as the lump and the trans come out as a unit this will be invaluable unless you have about four grunts to lift/tilt the front of the lump up over the core support. The angle up and out gets very steep.

Have fun.......
 
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